Removing Head

Post by **Swerve** » Thu Nov 22, 2007 9:08 pm

All,

removing the head on my Nissan G60 P Engine. How much force should I use to break the block/head seal ?

What is the best method ?

Have tried rubber mallet, lifting head with hoist, still won't crack the seal

Steve

Post by **cooki_monsta** » Thu Nov 22, 2007 9:37 pm

maybe an engineers hammer lightly around the seal?

Post by RN » Thu Nov 22, 2007 10:03 pm

Never tried it but would cranking the engine over assist. Utilise the compression to do the work or is that thwart with danger.

Post by **Swerve** » Thu Nov 22, 2007 10:21 pm

RoadNazi wrote:Never tried it but would cranking the engine over assist. Utilise the compression to do the work or is that thwart with danger.

RoadNazi,

Mate that aint going to work as the engine is seized !!

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/phpBB2/vi ... p?t=125565

My other thread.

Post by **WRXZook** » Thu Nov 22, 2007 10:39 pm

Mate, I'd place a piece of timber against the side of the head and give a couple of good hits with a decent hammer. You might be able to get a lever under the lift point bracket at the rear of the head to assist as well.

Post by **PJ.zook** » Thu Nov 22, 2007 10:46 pm

Squirt some hairspray down spark plug hole, fit spark plug, then apply HV coil to sparkplug *FOOM* off comes head (never tried it, but if you do, video it hehe)

Post by **sloshy** » Thu Nov 22, 2007 11:08 pm

just like wrxzook said and maybe a sharp timber wedge or if you get the
shitz a big hammer and screw driver

Post by **plowy** » Fri Nov 23, 2007 5:21 am

sloshy wrote:just like wrxzook said and maybe a sharp timber wedge or if you get the
shitz a big hammer and screw driver

NNNNNOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
YOU DO NOT WISH TO MARK THE THE CYLINDER HEAD /BLOCK SEALING SURFACE AREA

use a lever bar or pipe , even timber in the inlet /ex ports and try to lever it up side to side
since you have taken the motor out you may even have to lay the motor on its side to stop it from flopping around whilst leavering just to break the head gaskets seal

Post by **pegasus** » Fri Nov 23, 2007 6:16 am

Are there hidden bolts

Post by **Sic Lux** » Fri Nov 23, 2007 7:15 am

pegasus wrote:Are there hidden bolts

2nd that they shoudn't need more than a tap to lift them off putting something in the ports to help is ok but i woundn't get too rough with it. Like the hair spray i would like to see it done with accetlyne as it goes off a lot better

Are the plugs out

Post by **trains** » Fri Nov 23, 2007 7:34 am

pegasus wrote:Are there hidden bolts

Thats what Im thinking too.

measure twice cut once.............

Trains

Post by **Swerve** » Fri Nov 23, 2007 9:24 am

THERE ARE NO HIDDEN BOLTS

I have also taken the side cover off and checked. I wasnâ€™t going to take the rockers off, but again took this off to make sure no hidden bolts.

Talking on RMP&O Eddy advises there is a pry point behind the No6 Cylinder to use a tyre lever. Pleasures of a steel head.

Steve

PS- Will try that tonight

Post by **Swerve** » Fri Nov 23, 2007 11:05 pm

Well had to go to the Mrs Xmas party and got home at 11pm. Was hanging to try again and get the head off.

Tried using both the rear and front pry points and thought no luck, went around the head with wood and a 4lb hammer. Didnt think it was budging, so then got the screwdriver and GENTLY tepped it in between the waterpump and thermostat, could see the gap opening SUCCESS.

Then got the hoist and sure enough up she came. Feeling ok the head aint damaged as not much force was used and it is no where near the cylinders.

Well got the head off and placed on the make shift bench at the rear of teh chassis. Then looked at the block and what did we see !!!

Cylinder 1, 2, 6 empty, deisel and oil has run out

Cylinder 3,4,5 full of deisel

Photos of each cylinder

Cyl 6

Cyl 5 left, 4 Right

Cyl 3,2,1 (Left to right)

Another shot

Post by **Mr. octurbo** » Sat Nov 24, 2007 11:14 am

Swerve wrote:Well had to go to the Mrs Xmas party and got home at 11pm. Was hanging to try again and get the head off.

Tried using both the rear and front pry points and thought no luck, went around the head with wood and a 4lb hammer. Didnt think it was budging, so then got the screwdriver and GENTLY tepped it in between the waterpump and thermostat, could see the gap opening SUCCESS.

Then got the hoist and sure enough up she came. Feeling ok the head aint damaged as not much force was used and it is no where near the cylinders.

Well got the head off and placed on the make shift bench at the rear of teh chassis. Then looked at the block and what did we see !!!

Cylinder 1, 2, 6 empty, deisel and oil has run out

Cylinder 3,4,5 full of deisel

Photos of each cylinder

Cyl 6

Cyl 5 left, 4 Right

Cyl 3,2,1 (Left to right)

Another shot

looks ahh rather healthy...

Post by **Swerve** » Sun Nov 25, 2007 4:03 pm

Sunday 25th Nov 2007

Well Ferdy came over for brunch with the Mrs and kid.

After the formalities we went to the garage to play with the seized engine. After much knocking pistons, oil over the pistons, steel bars for leverage we got 2mm of movement on the pistons.

We kept going and she is now turning off smooth as a baby bottom, except the half bolted clutch is dragging.

There is a rough spot which I reckon is a rust spot or something on the main bearing or similar. Need to get some more oil in the sump to submerge the crank. Then I can get a new head gasket and put her back together.

Steve

Post by **Zeyphly** » Mon Nov 26, 2007 9:55 pm

why not do a bearing roll as well?

Post by **Swerve** » Tue Nov 27, 2007 6:08 am

Zeyphly wrote:why not do a bearing roll as well?

What do you mean ?

Post by **Zeyphly** » Tue Nov 27, 2007 10:59 pm

replace bearings in the bottom end of your engine

Post by **Swerve** » Wed Nov 28, 2007 1:06 pm

Zeyphly wrote:replace bearings in the bottom end of your engine

Nope, not doing that, if and when taht happens will drop in my spare P motor or do a V8

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