im bracing and rebuilding my GQ front diff. just wondering why people prefer for the diff truss. the knuckles are easy but im thinking of different ways to do the truss along the long side.
ive done RHS on 2 different diffs and they were easy to do but stands out like dogs balls. ive noticed a few guys run a piece of pipe underneath the diff in comp conditions with no problems and ive also noticed recently alot of guys arent bracing diffs at all.
whats the go? and what size pipe do they use? and also will welding near the centre will it create enough heat to harm the locker?
unrelated question now, anyone have much experience with yuri CVs in nissans?
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front diff bracing and yuri CVs
front diff bracing and yuri CVs
turbos are nice but i'd rather be blown
from what i been told some of the winch guys arent bracing any more as when they are stock they only ever crack next to the pumpkin but once you truss it they generally break in 2 if they go or the mounts snap off
so altho you might go thru more diffs atleast you can finish with just a lil crack
definatly brace the knuckles tho
and if u truss it look at an 80 front diff n copy the factory truss on it. doesnt stand out and seems to work better than realy heavy steel
so altho you might go thru more diffs atleast you can finish with just a lil crack
definatly brace the knuckles tho
and if u truss it look at an 80 front diff n copy the factory truss on it. doesnt stand out and seems to work better than realy heavy steel
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i think i have a problem
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gu ute play truck For sale
FTE 80 series sahara Sold
i think i have a problem
laminating and/ or bracing is personal taste as they are both strong when done correctly. We do both and have no problems with either , usually bracing the front diff and laminating the rear.
From my experience the "Cal offroad" CV's are awesome i have done about 7 comps now with them and in the last event ,7 stages were completed with sticky's and i have not had a hint of a problem. Do cost a little approx $1800 set of axles and cv's but think of this , one day we drove in a rocky creek in about the space of 1 metre we broke 2 brand new NTN's costing $500 a set and it was FU****G hard to do a recovery as we could not remove the CV's due to the rocks either sides.
Do the sums and i think they are well worth it, Gu diffs suck as they are to wide and the cal Cv's are still stronger as they have a larger axle as well.
From my experience the "Cal offroad" CV's are awesome i have done about 7 comps now with them and in the last event ,7 stages were completed with sticky's and i have not had a hint of a problem. Do cost a little approx $1800 set of axles and cv's but think of this , one day we drove in a rocky creek in about the space of 1 metre we broke 2 brand new NTN's costing $500 a set and it was FU****G hard to do a recovery as we could not remove the CV's due to the rocks either sides.
Do the sums and i think they are well worth it, Gu diffs suck as they are to wide and the cal Cv's are still stronger as they have a larger axle as well.
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