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the b2 convertor is currently floating around on the drivers side gaurd with around 600mm between that and the mixer (225) I'd like to make a braket so it sit's vertically on the engine above the intake manifold but was floating the idea with a mate and he said the vibration kill's it keep it on the gaurd.
Is this true? I've seen plenty of install's with the convertor mounted to the engine, and With my limited experience you should mount the convertor as close as physically possible to the mixer?
My dads 4.5 Gu has the converter mounted on the engine and after 8 years has had no problems other than a diaphram, space will determine where is best to mount it.
Saddle up tonto, its the not so loanrangie! . 98 TDI DISCO lightly modded with more to come.
The vibration wont kill it, we mounted thousands on the engine with Gasresearch over the 10 years I was there, we always mount them horizontally as the oil (heavy ends) present in Butane/Propane mixtures can build up on the secondary diaphram causing flat spots when cold..the oil gets thick and greasy and restricts diaphram movement, also the diaphram sits flat and dosent rooster over sideways and stick on the secondary lever as it can if mounted vertically. The engine is more responsive as gas flow is more instant if mounted horizontally due to this.
Pull the lid off and hold the converter vertical and you will see.
Further to that the oil when permanently preent on the diaphram causes the diaphram to perish.
PGS 4WD wrote:The vibration wont kill it, we mounted thousands on the engine with Gasresearch over the 10 years I was there, we always mount them horizontally as the oil (heavy ends) present in Butane/Propane mixtures can build up on the secondary diaphram causing flat spots when cold..the oil gets thick and greasy and restricts diaphram movement, also the diaphram sits flat and dosent rooster over sideways and stick on the secondary lever as it can if mounted vertically. The engine is more responsive as gas flow is more instant if mounted horizontally due to this.
Pull the lid off and hold the converter vertical and you will see.
Further to that the oil when permanently preent on the diaphram causes the diaphram to perish.
Joel
cheer's, i'm gunna have a fun time mounting it horizontally over the engine I think but I'll see how I go.
is there any gains/losses to be had from the distance between the convertor and mixer?
v6hilux wrote:
The only critical thing is to have the mixer as close as possible to the manifold inlet.
Just fitted LPG up to our 80 this weekend.
The mixer went in between the air filter box and the air flow meter.
If you look you`ll just see it next to the hose that isn`t fitted yet (in pic)
Pic was taken before we had finished.
Goes in to get checked, fixed, tuned, tested and certified hopefully Wednesday. Not going to use it at all untill this is done.
Mate it only ducks under the intake pipe and hooks straight up.
Going over the top of the intake not only looks shit but its no shorter.
Infact I looked at a mates 80 today that is on gas. His gas was done by a shop and the convertor is mounted on the other side of the engine bay. The way mine is the line is about half that length.
Now I should say I know NOTHING about gas systems, only what I have learnt yesterday and today fitting it up (yesterday had a mate helping)
shakes wrote:is there any gains/losses to be had from the distance between the convertor and mixer?
Simon
The distance between the converter and mixer isn't critical.
The converter is supplying vapor at a higher rate than you need and the hose between them is always pressurised.
The only critical thing is to have the mixer as close as possible to the manifold inlet.
The vapour hose isn't under pressure, the gas is drawn in by a depression created by the mixer, if the vapour hose is too long it will induce a lean snap throttle that can contribute to backfire, keep it under 1/2 a meter where possible. Complex converters send a very small amount of LPG under pressure for idle mixture as a simple mixer does not generate sufficient depression (vacuum) at idle to draw in the gas, there is only sufficient gas for idle supplied, as the throttle is opened air speed increases and a depression (vacuum) is formed by the mixer. This vacuum pulls the converter diaphram against spring pressure opening the secondary valve which in turn flows gas to the mixer.
There are 2 fundamental converter types, complex and simple. A complex converter, like guts, should be vertical with the vapour outlet off the bottom, they are european design and are suceptible to contamination by the oils in our local Butane/Propane mixture, they are designed for clean straight propane and have a one or two adjusters on them for idle and sensitivity. The other is a simple converter is found on Impco and their copies, also the Gasresearch, they are less prone to problems and have no adjustments externally, the mixer has the adjustments. These are best mounted horizontally.
PGS 4WD wrote: A complex converter, like guts, should be vertical with the vapour outlet off the bottom
I just mounted mine so the writing on it was up the write way thats my type of thinking for how it should be mounted, this put the vapour outlet (Assuming thats the big fat line) at the top
Anyway like I said it all to be checked and if need be fixed by an installer once we have wired it
PGS 4WD wrote: A complex converter, like guts, should be vertical with the vapour outlet off the bottom
I just mounted mine so the writing on it was up the write way thats my type of thinking for how it should be mounted, this put the vapour outlet (Assuming thats the big fat line) at the top
Anyway like I said it all to be checked and if need be fixed by an installer once we have wired it
Yours may have a drain rooster at the bottom to drain the oil and sometimes the outlet can be relocated in the converter as they have duel outlets and one is a blank plug.
Seeing an lpg installer is no gaurantee that they will know a problem if they see it, I used to spend a lot time fixing conversions from other shops . The problem is the quality of our LPG (Butane/Propane) where the system you have is designed for Propane only which is much cleaner as it has less residual oil.
Joel
Hey I didn't type rooster the forum changed it from drain c#%k, thats funny
PGS 4WD wrote: The problem is the quality of our LPG (Butane/Propane) where the system you have is designed for Propane only which is much cleaner as it has less residual oil.
Joel
Hey I didn't type rooster the forum changed it from drain c#%k, thats funny
You didn't mention the coal shale that clogs the LPG filter.
As for the drain would that be a threaded-stop-clock or plain stop-clock?
I beleive when they make the tanks they are tumbled with shot beads in them but the process isn't 100% in removing the scale, usually only the first and second filter will clog, after that they seem OK.
(yesterday had a mate helping)
