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Lowrange 4.9's
1. remove speedo cable & shift light wiring plug
2. remove the 3 bolts that bolt the arms coming off the transfer case to the chassis side of the mounts.
3. remove 4 bolts off all 3 flanges attached to tcase (gearbox to tcase input driveshaft flange, output to rear diff flange & output to front diff flange) Driveshafts/unis may require a tap with a hammer to get them to fall away as they clamp down a flange nut inside.
4. Remove shifter knob & shifter boot. Proceed to remove case. I would recommend removing shifter if your lowering the case out yourself. If theres 2 people its easy enough to manouvre out with the shifter still in.
RE: socket, your rachet will have a 1/2" male drive ("square thing"). What i bough is a peice to fit that, but it goes down to a 3/8" male drive instead of an open hole to accept a bolt head or nut. Kind of like an extension, but without the 'long' extension part, and a different size at the male end of the extension. Can be found at repco hanging in the window box thing along with all the other ring spanners/ratchets etc..
once you have the case out you will notice there are big nuts holding the 3 driveshaft flanges on to the shafts. There is a fair chance you will need heat to get these off. We spend half an hour stripping of the "clamp" parts of the nuts and I still had to give it to my mate to take to work & heat up with a torch and hit them with the rattle gun to get them off.
After this you (presuming youve drained the case) you can proceed to split the case as per the lowrange instructions.
2. remove the 3 bolts that bolt the arms coming off the transfer case to the chassis side of the mounts.
3. remove 4 bolts off all 3 flanges attached to tcase (gearbox to tcase input driveshaft flange, output to rear diff flange & output to front diff flange) Driveshafts/unis may require a tap with a hammer to get them to fall away as they clamp down a flange nut inside.
4. Remove shifter knob & shifter boot. Proceed to remove case. I would recommend removing shifter if your lowering the case out yourself. If theres 2 people its easy enough to manouvre out with the shifter still in.
RE: socket, your rachet will have a 1/2" male drive ("square thing"). What i bough is a peice to fit that, but it goes down to a 3/8" male drive instead of an open hole to accept a bolt head or nut. Kind of like an extension, but without the 'long' extension part, and a different size at the male end of the extension. Can be found at repco hanging in the window box thing along with all the other ring spanners/ratchets etc..
once you have the case out you will notice there are big nuts holding the 3 driveshaft flanges on to the shafts. There is a fair chance you will need heat to get these off. We spend half an hour stripping of the "clamp" parts of the nuts and I still had to give it to my mate to take to work & heat up with a torch and hit them with the rattle gun to get them off.
After this you (presuming youve drained the case) you can proceed to split the case as per the lowrange instructions.
ill give u credit for giving it a go, but seriously, if your struggling to get the shafts off the flanges than the rest will be a bit out of your league.. keep at it by all meansmick85 wrote:im having trouble removing the front and rear tailshafts from the case itself, i have removed the 4 bolts at either end for each shaft tho each of them still seem to be attached??? are they meant to be? i assumed they would just fall away once the bolts were removed but they arent
do i have to remove the 4 which lead to the shaft to the gearbox? or will the whole assembly slide out?
i mite have to go buy a gregorys book grr - the whole thing can wobble around while i raise it with the jack but not sure about these other problems??
and with the 3/8 adaptor there is no actual socket you bought? were you just using the extension bar to remove the plug? been out today no one has the right size socket and ive been to a few places
michael
1. remove speedo cable & shift light wiring plug - DONE
2. remove the 3 bolts that bolt the arms coming off the transfer case to the chassis side of the mounts. DONE
3. remove 4 bolts off all 3 flanges attached to tcase (gearbox to tcase input driveshaft flange, output to rear diff flange & output to front diff flange) Driveshafts/unis may require a tap with a hammer to get them to fall away as they clamp down a flange nut inside. DONE
4. Remove shifter knob & shifter boot. DONE
cant be too far off ill keep at it!
thanks for the help, ill finish getting it out in the next day or so. just wasnt sure of the shafts as i didnt want to break anything but helpful to know they mite need a tap to free - will update as to how i go!
2. remove the 3 bolts that bolt the arms coming off the transfer case to the chassis side of the mounts. DONE
3. remove 4 bolts off all 3 flanges attached to tcase (gearbox to tcase input driveshaft flange, output to rear diff flange & output to front diff flange) Driveshafts/unis may require a tap with a hammer to get them to fall away as they clamp down a flange nut inside. DONE
4. Remove shifter knob & shifter boot. DONE
cant be too far off ill keep at it!
thanks for the help, ill finish getting it out in the next day or so. just wasnt sure of the shafts as i didnt want to break anything but helpful to know they mite need a tap to free - will update as to how i go!
no one will ever learn anything unless they give it a go, will be all good.11_evl wrote:ill give u credit for giving it a go, but seriously, if your struggling to get the shafts off the flanges than the rest will be a bit out of your league.. keep at it by all means
I would be interested if you do that Im looking at getting the main seals and bearings done myself maybe I could then do it myself.mick85 wrote: ok onto the next bit - pics will go up soon (if anyone is interested) was gonna do a pic by pic step by step write up of a how to!
..wrench, wheel, wreck repeat..
check out the action @ http://www.darwin4x4.net
check out the action @ http://www.darwin4x4.net
Oh I'm a expert in pulling transfers out, link above is extensive, I'm tending to go back to the get someone else do now......mick85 wrote:but want33's mine will be better - it will also show how to take it out
Make sure you secure the drive shaft from gear box so it dont fall out and leak oil
I found it easier to undo the front drive shaft from the diff instead of the transfer case.
..wrench, wheel, wreck repeat..
check out the action @ http://www.darwin4x4.net
check out the action @ http://www.darwin4x4.net
yes 11_evl said it might be out of my league.... but i did it. i took out, disassembled, fitted new gears and put the case back together!!! took me a little while, more running around for bearings than anything but all sorted pics!@!!
case before
case open with front and centre housing removed
new 4.9 gears sitting in rear housing to test fit
new and old input shaft
case reassembled ready to go
not bad for a first go
case before
case open with front and centre housing removed
new 4.9 gears sitting in rear housing to test fit
new and old input shaft
case reassembled ready to go
not bad for a first go
Hello all, glad to see the gears are all working out well for everyone.
Just wanted to let everyone now that we no longer charge Paypal fees and will take credit cards for Australian orders.
Also wanted to let you know we now have a cheaper option to ship that seems to be just as fast as before and can get a gear kit shipped to you for under $50.00US. That makes a 6.5 gear set about $595.00AU and a 4.9 kit about $730.00AU shipped to your door!!!!!
Any questions please pm me, e-mail me (sales@lowrangeoffroad.com) or phone me (801-805-6644)
Sean
Low Range Off Road
Just wanted to let everyone now that we no longer charge Paypal fees and will take credit cards for Australian orders.
Also wanted to let you know we now have a cheaper option to ship that seems to be just as fast as before and can get a gear kit shipped to you for under $50.00US. That makes a 6.5 gear set about $595.00AU and a 4.9 kit about $730.00AU shipped to your door!!!!!
Any questions please pm me, e-mail me (sales@lowrangeoffroad.com) or phone me (801-805-6644)
Sean
Low Range Off Road
www.LOWRANGEOFFROAD.com
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