Sierra Axle Forward (No PAS or high steer)

[Highway-Star]

OK, moving the axle forward has been covered plenty of times, however every case I have searched and found is on a vehicle with power steer, or with a SPOA running high steer.

What I want to know is for a 100% stock steering arrangement, how far can the front axle be taken forward? By crawling under my car I can see about 10mm of gap between the ball joint on the drag link and the tie rod. ATM the car has sagged standard suspension. So would about 8mm be the safe maximum? Prefer some comments from someone who has done it to a stockish car.

I'm looking at getting custom 2" lifted front springs made up with the axle hole in a more appropriate place, so my 31" tyres miss the hammered firewall by more than 1mm.

Also for those who try to suggest an alternate approach, just a few notes to please consider:
- My steering box cannot be moved forward due to my crazy front bar mounts.
- My firewall is already hammered.
- Not installing a PAS box, with the shorter pitman arm.
- Not doing a SPOA, and installing a high steer.
- Not interested in doing a RUF. It seems like a great mod, but excessive work for my requirements.

Thanks

[Dee]

want33s moved his front diff foward 40mm by redrilling perches on diff. After discussions with him I was told that he had some problems with steering rod/links hitting each other (to the point of dinting/bending them). I however have done a ruf (as have many others on this board) and I believe its moved my front diff foward *approx.* 35mm. I and others would experience the steering links "just polishing" eachother on uptravel, with no real damage done. I think youd be very safe in terms of tie rod/drag link clearances with a movement of 25-30mm.

[Highway-Star]

And your still running standard steering? If so can you explain why it doesn't hit, because I cannot see why It wouldn't...

I thought that ~30mm would hit and just not get past each other at all. I got under the car again, took a picture and made a proper measurement. Its ~12mm from the closest part of the drag links ball joint, to the tie rod.

Heres a picture of the steering linkages for anyone who is not sure what I'm rambling on about. This is with the steering straight ahead, which is when the two come closest to each other. This height is also approximetaly where my (yet to come) extended bumpstops will just about stop my uptravel. May go up a bit further,

[Dee]

I've only had a quick look at mine, havent driven it with the setup yet, but try grabbing the lower link and twisting it. When people say their arms 'just touch' or 'polish' eachother I think what happens is under compression when they do make contact the pressure on the upper balljoint forces it to twist & 'slide' past, with a certain amount of wheelbase extension. With too much extension its too far for them to slide past eachother and the lower link takes the full 'hit' of the upper balljoint, casing damage/bending etc...
someone may want to confirm this however, im not 100% positive this is just what i've found from reading some RUF threads & also after having a quick look under mine.

[want33s]

I had mine 40mm forward until I did the NT spring thing.

I have 2" raised springs and I found that the pitman arm was hitting the drag link at full compression. I fixed it by adding 2" bumpstop extensions and moving diff so it is 27mm forward instead of 40mm.


You can see the slight kink!
A chassis extension for ruf will move the steering box and all forward 75mm eventually.

[Highway-Star]

Cheers Guys

I get the twisting bit your talking about DeeV8, can get about 17mm gap if I twist the drag link around a bit.

Want33s: Slight Kink, ouch mate, that sucks, instant toe adjustment. Thats why I want to get this right first time. So your 27mm forward with 2" bumpstops works; that sounds promising, I was sort of aiming for around the 15mm mark, and I'll be running whatever extended bumpstops my final tyre suspension setup dictates I need (hopefull estimate of 1.5").

Thanks

[christover1]

Mine was not ps when I moved mine forward.
I found 22mm was a happy medium, to avoid all issues I could think of.
Didn't have any probs with that.
Ps did give me more room.
I didn't need a tailshaft spacer, but have since fitted one, as my t-case was moved back a tad.

christover

[Highway-Star]

Cheers Christover, I read your thread in the bible, but didn't realise it was done before your PAS.

[moose]

i moved mine forward about 30mm !!
no P/S , but do have a reverse shackle & mazda springs !!!
running 33,s , so have bent the steering arms a few times , that is the only time I have clearance issues !!


(gotta love the approach angle !! )

[Rotazuk]

I went ~22mm standard suspension , no issues . Doubt I could have gone any further .

Chris

[Highway-Star]

Thanks Everyone.

I think 15mm is a good shot then, sounds pretty safe, under what you guys are running, and you still dont seem to be having issues for further forward than this. Plus it will look standard, no one will ever know (my cars not stock, its a 'sleeper')

Moose does have a kick arse approach angle !

[Highway-Star]

OK I finally installed my suspension last weekend, and moved the axle forward in the process. I opted for 18mm forward which seems to have worked out really well for clearance. I havn't had it flexed up yet to be sure that it clears, but around the yard and visual investigating seems all good.

Here is a picture of the wheel in the well, I think it looks reasonably balanced whilst still maintaining a stock like appearance. If I had PAS with the shorter pitman arm I would have went a bit further though. (31" tyres in the the photo BTW).




So thanks to everyone who heped me out here .