Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user. If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
Well the Drover is running rough.. not standard rough but nasty rough.. top speed of 60k, sluggish as a snail, and knocking... just wondering if anyone has a suggestion as to what possible problems may be.. I guessed either busted piston or big end bearing, but may be totally off the mark...
Cant afford a 1.6 conversion at the moment so trying to get this fixed 'on the cheap' but still keeping it reliable untill funding allows for a better upgrade..
found this kit on ebay and am presuming it would be the most efficient way of doing things for now..
RPM and the other engine reco mobs quote $1500odd bucks for a 'fully reco'd 1.3' but i cant justify them bucks this time of year. so.. Do i just hold off on the 1.3 rebuild kit and get the reco 1.3 late jan early feb or is it viable to put the ebay kit through and cross my fingers and hope its all good untill funding allows for a 1.6 conversion? is there other things I should be considering?
Am yet to remove bits and investigate what may be causing the problem and am hoping someone or lots of you may have had similar experiances, noises...
thanks in advance guys..
Last edited by foolsp33d on Mon Dec 17, 2007 12:35 pm, edited 1 time in total.
[quote="-Nemesis-"][quote="bj on roids"]whens the aussie one start?[/quote]
here you go I think its the pic you were trying to display
I hate going to weddings because all the grandma's used to poke me in the ribs saying you're next, you're next. They've stopped doing it since I started doing it to them at funerals.
if you wanna go on the cheap, have you considered just buying a 2nd hand engine, there are normally a few decent ones for sale around the place, wouldn't cost you more then $300-$450 and you can change it out with your old one in only a few hours. Not to mention you will then have a lot of spares of your "Original" engine! Just insure that you prefferably get a compression test done on the donor engine and if all good it should last you a another long while!
ta danzo, i forgot the img codes eh! Is already a second hand motor.. Pre 86 was g13a the current is g13ba posted up the details on the change over earlier this year. So still have the 'a' sitting under the house..
[quote="-Nemesis-"][quote="bj on roids"]whens the aussie one start?[/quote]
Yeah I'd be on the lookout for another motor. They just aren't worth rebuilding just to get them running. Maybe if your adding go fast bits it's justifyable. Hell I just gave away a working 89 model 1.3 long motor.
GRPABT1 wrote: Hell I just gave away a working 89 model 1.3 long motor.
I dont want to hear that!!
but for$300-400 i can get the piston kit and bearings.. then just the $$ to put it in KNOWING its going to last...and not having to reely on the word of the seller thats 'its a good strong motor'...
two sierras.. one roller, one spare motor(not going) one complete Not going.. ohh the heartache...
seems this topic is keeping the knowledged ones away... WTF is with that!????
[quote="-Nemesis-"][quote="bj on roids"]whens the aussie one start?[/quote]
Both the options have been covered..**
*It really isn't worth spending $300-$500 re-ringing an old motor.
A total rebuild is the way to go IF you need reliability. Closer to $1200-$1500 to do PROPERLY.
*$300 or less will buy a decent running motor that you can flog the guts out of and replace again in 12months if it blows or if you aren't happy with it.
I know which way I'd go for a car that I could roll tomorrow. $300 thanks.
Firstly , do you have the skills to rebuild a motor , if you do it will cost arround $700.00 to do yourself , this will give you :
New pistons
New rings
Boring of the motor
Machining of the head
Full Monotorque gasket set/seals
You won't need a manual as there's plenty of info here. If you don't have the skills this is where you pay the extra dollars , These blocks can be bored to 100 thou with no adverse problems so if you only need 10 or 20 thou to clean it up there should be no problem.DO NOT USE ONE OF THOSE CHEAP HONING TOOLS AS THEY TAPER THE BORE AND CAN ALSO MAKE THEM OUT OF ROUND. The best type of honer is a bottle brush type and they don't remove metal from the bore. If you do go for a rebuild get the bore miked up by a engine rebuilder to see what condition it's in.
To go further you might want to change the valve stem seals under the valve springs , these seals will be in the kit , super cheap sell a tool to remove valve springs. You will also need a piston ring compressor to fit pistons , beg , borrow , steal , these from a mate , Cheers Paul.
Thanks Want33's Thats more along the lines of what i was after..
justifiably it would be worth getting a fully reco'd engine on change over from RPM or similar in that case wouldnt it?
very close in price to what getting the work done on my engine would cost by the look of it.. dont have the required exp. or the off time from work to do the work myself so i figured the changeover would be the most viable option. as for another 2nd hand engine.. having two 'dead engines' lying around the house might really put me in the bad books, but loosing one for a change over and possibly rebuilding the other for the spare zuki may be a reasonable outcome in the long run.. would at least have two good motors then with nothing lying about..
Lets presume i go the changeover route.. am i better off keeping the 13a or 13ba!? the a being a 1324 the ba a 1298cc. price wise on changeover they are the same, has anyone had any experiance with RPM of other engine mobs offering 'fully reconditioned' engines? any suggestions as to who to avoid and who to see?
appreciated guys. thanks.
[quote="-Nemesis-"][quote="bj on roids"]whens the aussie one start?[/quote]
just wondering as to the easiest way of removing the damaged piston and skirt without having to strip down the entire block.. is it just a matter of taking off the sump, and required rod and pushing the damaged piston up through the block? (the head is off already...) replacing and putting back in?
am I likely to run into trouble by only replacing the skirt or is it viable to replace the piston as well... seems to be in ok condition.. although it may have damaged the bore..
What exactly should i be looking for to determine this?
EDIT PICS/video UP:
I know moose has had this problem and im sure there are other members out there who have to. so come on fellas and chickies.. bit of a hand please!??
[quote="-Nemesis-"][quote="bj on roids"]whens the aussie one start?[/quote]
You need to remove all pistons , looking at your bore it looks glazed , needs a hone if you arn't going to bore it. It is better to remove the engine / crank for this and new bearings would be good. Cheers Paul.
Use a bottlebrush hone, they dont remove metal from the bore. You want to end up with a crisscross pattern on the cylinder wall.
To answer your question, undo the rod from the crank and remove your big end. I would replace the entire piston.
Put a hammer handle or something wooden up the bore and tap the piston out gently. Be careful that the rod does not bang against the cylinder wall.
Watch out as sometimes the rings can spring off so go nice and slow.
While all the pistons are out it would be wise to replace the rings, big end bearings and front/rear crank seals too. You will need a piston ring compressor for the rings.
Also, check the conditions of the rods, other pistons, skirts etc. etc. replace anything that looks even vaguely suss as it would suck to have to tear the engine down again in 6 months because you didnt want to spend an extra $40. ask me how I know.
