1.3 sierra... beach driving

Post by **Bruzar** » Thu Dec 20, 2007 3:01 pm

just serviced the whole thing.....

DIFFS
GEARBOXES
ENGINE
PLUGS
LEADS

VALVE ADJUST
NEW ROCKER COVER GASKEST
A FEW NEW HOSES
TIMING ADJUST
CARBY/IDILE TUNE...

IT runs great now..... JUST PURRRS... will be good for LANCELIN on MONDAY...

Thanks again

Post by **alien** » Thu Dec 20, 2007 3:57 pm

if you're spending a few days there dont forget to clean the air filter after a days driving too...

oh and take a compressor - the servo charges for air! haha

Post by **nicbeer** » Thu Dec 20, 2007 5:26 pm

alien wrote: oh and take a compressor - the servo charges for air! haha

Bit annoying that, endless air is good thou.

I would come up for a thrash on sun but i got a car club meet.

Post by **Bruzar** » Tue Dec 25, 2007 12:03 am

ended up going to LANCEKIN today,,,, the drive their was nice?? bit slow im used to the TURBO DIESEL PATROL.. i struggled to stay on 100km/h hills really slowed me down ect..ect

When i got their had some fun in the DUNES.. then made my way to wedge...!!! this is when i got pissed offfff..

I had to stop about 3-4 times to let the motor cool down..That was fine.. made it to WEDGE and BACK just stopping a few times to let it cool down then keep going...

NOW,,,, the drive home took me 4-1/2 hours.. thats to get to FREMANTLE the car kept overheating and pissing coolant WTF WTF WTF..... any one have this problem (is it COMMON) whats the best NO-BUL*SH&T way to get i sorted..

It either that or NO ZOOK?? cause i have to say that was one of the worst drives ive had to do... and it was FUCK*IN HOT!!!!

IS thier a one-STOP place that willl wack in a new motor (MORE POWER/NO OVERHEATING) and wont rip you off????? if so where is this place? how much? and what do ya get?? HOW much BETTER will it BE??

I hope no-ones has this happen to them on a day like today...!!

Cheers

Post by **benjamin78au** » Tue Dec 25, 2007 8:42 am

hmm you could do the 1.6 mpi your self, if you khnow how to do a service it not that much harder.

Other wise find the reason your overheating and fix that. the little 1.3 should be good for 120 to 130 , with exttractors and that. But then again , extractos and muffler will cost 400ish , so put it on a 1.6

Post by **alien** » Tue Dec 25, 2007 9:35 am

where was the coolant leaking from? i blew my 1.3 when the main hose to the engine burst... however it went right on the hose clamp, right on the engine and 45 degrees facing the firewall, so i couldnt see it - assuming the overflow bottle just spilled (it happens) i drove on, and on, and on... then i got white smoke... lol

it shouldnt be overheating if you're moving though - they do get warm when you sit still (ie: a maccas drivethrough on a 40 degree day with 8 cars in front of you). but shouldnt overheat.

perhaps start by getting the radiator professionally flushed and replace all hoses to be safe.

Post by **steven101** » Tue Dec 25, 2007 4:28 pm

alien wrote:to clarify the sidewall thing, he said he was on 30" tyres... a tyre that size is rated to take far more weight than a zuk puts on it, hence taking the air all the way out and capping it again, you actually still have 5 or so PSI in there when going over bumps etc...

Why the hell would you let all the air out for no reason! your more likely to damage your tires this is just stupid, you can easily get away without letting any air out because of how light the car is!

Post by **alien** » Wed Dec 26, 2007 11:49 am

as explained above - let the air out before you get stuck, not after... and the fact theyre so light is exactly why more air gets let out than say on a cruiser... theres no weight to bag out the tyre, especially when one average 30" tyre can nearly support the entire vehicles weight.

Try it some time, youll notice a huge difference between 20psi and 5psi!

Post by **lay80n** » Wed Dec 26, 2007 12:09 pm

steven101 wrote:
alien wrote:to clarify the sidewall thing, he said he was on 30" tyres... a tyre that size is rated to take far more weight than a zuk puts on it, hence taking the air all the way out and capping it again, you actually still have 5 or so PSI in there when going over bumps etc...
Why the hell would you let all the air out for no reason! your more likely to damage your tires this is just stupid, you can easily get away without letting any air out because of how light the car is!

I guess your one of the idiots that dont air down, then chew the crap out of trails and access tracks for the rest of us. Good one. Air down before you hit the trails, dont be an ass that chews up the trails, or blocks the track when you get stuck and have to air down holding everyone else up.

Layto....

Post by **GRPABT1** » Wed Dec 26, 2007 2:24 pm

I run 35psi on the road, with the amount of body roll I get every psi counts lol. That said I air them down to about 10-15psi on the trails depending on the terrain and speed. Haven't go stuck yet to require going any lower than that

I agree that 20psi would be good for comfort but I don't think I'd be able to corner at the same speeds as I do with 35psi without tipping it over

Post by **alien** » Wed Dec 26, 2007 9:50 pm

20psi or 35psi - it wont affect body roll at all... youll find though that 20psi grips and 35psi slips... i ran mine hard when i first got it and was sideways around every corner - there was zero traction cos only about 15mm on the center of the tyre was making contact with the road!

If you like to drive fast round corners, get some stiffer shocks/springs, lower it an inch or two and get some bling mags.

Post by **GRPABT1** » Wed Dec 26, 2007 10:29 pm

Nah that's what the commodore is for

Mine don't ballon out like that at 35psi though, still have a flat contact patch and even wear.

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1.3 sierra... beach driving

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