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Overheating 1.3l sierra

Tech Talk for Suzuki owners.

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Overheating 1.3l sierra

Post by Bruzar »

ended up going to LANCEKIN today,,,, the drive their was nice?? bit slow im used to the TURBO DIESEL PATROL.. i struggled to stay on 100km/h hills really slowed me down ect..ect

When i got their had some fun in the DUNES.. then made my way to wedge...!!! this is when i got pissed offfff..

I had to stop about 3-4 times to let the motor cool down..That was fine.. made it to WEDGE and BACK just stopping a few times to let it cool down then keep going...

NOW,,,, the drive home took me 4-1/2 hours.. thats to get to FREMANTLE the car kept overheating and pissing coolant WTF WTF WTF..... any one have this problem (is it COMMON) whats the best NO-BUL*SH&T way to get i sorted..

It either that or NO ZOOK?? cause i have to say that was one of the worst drives ive had to do... and it was .*IN HOT!!!!

IS thier a one-STOP place that willl wack in a new motor (MORE POWER/NO OVERHEATING) and wont rip you off????? if so where is this place? how much? and what do ya get?? HOW much BETTER will it BE??

I hope no-ones has this happen to them on a day like today...!!

Cheers


Next DAY.


Took the car for a drive today to see if it would over heat again..... within 10 min of driving the gauge is almost at the top again...

tommoro ill start with flushing the coolant and refiling... then ill go from their...

ANY SUGGESTIONS welcome
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Post by Kitika »

Have you checked all your hoses? I had a heater hose split and caused over heating and massive loss of fluids :roll: Also i got high temp readings when my head gasket blew... I also fried my motor at that time and had to rebuild it because i wasnt paying enough attention to the guage...
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Post by sanger »

i had some over heating issues due to blown head gasket. Skimmed the head and replaced gasket and shes still going strong.
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Post by alien »

i also had a hose blow on me which killed my 1.3... it was still driving and started the next morning though, a little (tons) smoke but it drove great - that was awesome =) haha
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Post by nicbeer »

Clean ur rad or get a new one.

also check the thermostat
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Post by dank »

just rebuilt the 1.3 in mine....have found they always run warm on hot days. SOunds like a lack of maintenance of old radiator...you can get them re-cored it cost me 80bucks re-core only not fitting which i did myself.

after rebuild still runs hot when in low range on the tracks...although for the run in i'm only using water in the system...will be better with coolant.

Your water pump might also be on the way out....cheap and easy to replace.

REplace hoses, thermostat, recore or new radiator, flush the system...

then see how it goes
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Post by NIK »

$80 for a recore?? When I got my new rad it was bugger all difference between new and recore when they factor in labour to recore it.
Reverse flush the whole system check/replace thermostat and cap. Top up and check for leaks and make sure the fan works. Other than that maybe time for new radiator?
Saying that I did a 3hr drive this week ran sweet all the way there then on the way home running a little warm. Spent most of the drive :bad-words: before I realised there must be a short/bad earth in the headlight circuit as it ran hot with lights on and cool with them off!!!
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Post by Gwagensteve »

Make sure it has a fan shroud. Many sierras loose them over the years as they make changing a belt etc much more work.

If it doesn't have a shroud, it will overheat, guaranteed.

Ditto check thermostat, timing, flush radiator etc.

Steve.
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overheating 1.3 sierra

Post by andrewa »

hey mate. had same problem. gave no warning at all, temp went straight up. lost plenty of water aswell. end result blown head gasket. take oil cap of tappet cover and check if oil is milky & you'll know straight away. hope this helps.

cheers andrew.
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Post by jaclhead »

Had same problem on Sunday coming back from Vic. Last 400ks at 60-70kph with the pleasant 40 degrees and the heater on flat out to help!! It looks like I had a blocked radiator, flush and a blow out seems to have fixed it.
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Post by Bruzar »

im 0n holiday ATM so not much i can do to the car..... Before i left i SOLD my SHORTY which took me so much time and MONEY to build and get it perfect.... :cry: :cry:

But when i get back ill have some money to spend....... so im thinkin 1.6 VITARA motor... NEW SOFT top.. couple other things...

WHAT do yous reckon,, I dont know where to put money in to suzukis????
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Post by dingoinazook »

14" thermo fan and electric thermo stat is the go for airflow
get the radiator replaced for piece of mind your mad if you dont ;)
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Post by Gwagensteve »

Dingoinazook - a 14" thermo pulls less air than the stock mechanical fan. They're also less reliable than the stock mechanical fan.

In my experience, sierras cooled only my a thermo overheat under prolonged load/low speed.

Just my 2C.

Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
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Post by NIK »

As hard as it it I think I agree with Steve :shock: (kidding)
I have a 8v 1600 with brand new 1300 radiator thermo (dont know the size but it coversside to side). It runs cool on the road at speed thermo dosnt even come on, off road its adequate BUT on the beach it dosnt get the airflow and runs hot. Maybe if I fabbed up a shroud to go with it it would be more effective. If you have a stock fan stick with it I put my thermo on years ago for a water event in a comp so it could be swithched off other than that no other advantage.
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Post by Kitika »

For beach work i left the original mechanical fan and then added a thermo on the front of the radiator in a blow through set up. It helps a fair bit with the high revs and slow speeds and this fan is also hooked onto a bling missile switch in the cab so it only gets turned on when needed :D
I wouldnt trust only an electric fan for my cooling system cos i've already fried one...
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Post by Gwagensteve »

I've built 2 660cc Sierras, both run basically the same exhaust, intercooler, boost, and radiator.

One ran a cappuccino motor (should run cooler - better head flow, more sophisticated injection) It ha davies craig 14" thermo, shrouded, and controlled by the cap ECU. It was marginal on road and ran hot in high range/fast dirt.

Mine runs a 6V motor, mechanical fan and doesn't heat up, at all, drvien harder then the cap motor car, in a heavier car. (LWB) with the same tyre size.

This is just my experience hat confirms everything I have always heard - mechanical fans throw more air than thermo fans.

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Post by built4thrashing »

thermos are great in heavy traffic as they can pull maximum airflow across the rad when at idle. out on the hwy or at high revs the fixed fan will pull more air.
only downside to fixed fans is when doin deep water crossings. fan can pull itself into the radiator.
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Post by Gwagensteve »

This is all true... except that it would be worth checking alternator output at idle against fan current - most fans draw over 20 amps and I don't reckon a tock alternator, when hot, would deliver that at idle.

Also, everyone with a manual off switch on their thermo fan has ALWAYS forgotten to turn it back on at least once. They're nowhere near as reliable as a mechanical fan in adverse conditions either.

Steve.
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Post by NIK »

Kinda on topic Ive stated my set up 1600 new 1300 rad and thermo but I think this is more air flow out question. On the beach mine is just ok in the soft stuff and the other day It was just under 3/4 and I got to the top of a dune to idle and let it cool but the motor stoped. 5 mins searching found the coil red hot and a blown ignition fuse. It took 3 more fuse to get me off the beach, motor was ok temp but the electrics were HOT. I also run a pootrol scoop on the passenger side (dumb idea to fit previous engine)
So do you guys with stock fan expereince anything like this? Im thinking the fan is cooling the engine but the hot air is just staying in the engine bay at low speeds.
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Post by GRPABT1 »

You've probably got faulty electrics if your coil is heating up and blowing a fuse. Got nothing to do with engine or radiator temp. I'd be replacing the coil, rotor button, leads and plugs.
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Post by NIK »

Its Never done it before or since , but you could be right the coil is over 20yrs old by the look of it.
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Post by Moph »

Hey Nick, out of curiosity can I ask where you got your new 1.3L radiator & how much for? I need a new rad for my WT but cheapest quote yet is $375....

Am thinking of going non-stock and fitting something a little bigger atm.
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Post by NIK »

Just the local radiator place, I think he said all the ones sold in OZ are made by 2 different manufactures. I think it was about $300 about $100 more for a vit 1 that apparently canbe squeezed in, looked alot like hard work to me though.
Had a look at refitting the stock fan. With the 1600 the fan would be hanging about an inch off driver side so Iwould have to move the radiator over from the stock mounts.again too much hard work my fix just stay off the beach!!
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Post by Bruzar »

is the 1600,, worth the money?? is it alot better that 1300?
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Post by nicbeer »

Bruzar wrote:is the 1600,, worth the money?? is it alot better that 1300?
u talking about rad or motor?
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Post by Bruzar »

im talking about the motor.... now that ive sold the patrol i was lookin for suggestions on motor conversions.... i dont how to spend money on the good old ZUKS??
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Post by Brendan-s »

I doubt you'll be disappointed with the (right) 1600 swap... never heard anyone complain about em!
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