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80 series rust hole in RHS foot well, who can fix in brizzy?
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
80 series rust hole in RHS foot well, who can fix in brizzy?
Hey all
Was just vacuuming the 80 and i noticed when i removed the rubber matt from the drivers side the carpet under neith is all wet. lifted the carpet and its all wet and all the wiring was going for a swim.
Cant really see where its comming from, has anybody else had this trouble with their 80???
Cheers Troy
Was just vacuuming the 80 and i noticed when i removed the rubber matt from the drivers side the carpet under neith is all wet. lifted the carpet and its all wet and all the wiring was going for a swim.
Cant really see where its comming from, has anybody else had this trouble with their 80???
Cheers Troy
Last edited by vSAHARAx on Thu Dec 27, 2007 8:57 pm, edited 1 time in total.
GXL HDJ80 Cruiser - Lifted, Locked, 315's, 3" Zorst, Safari Intercooled, High Flowed Turbo, All the fruit. AMMS tuned coal shovel, Pushing 148rwhp... + heaps of the black sooty goodness...
Re: 80 series drivers side foot well all wet any ideas???
Look for a leak?vSAHARAx wrote:Hey all
Cant really see where its comming from,
Cheers Troy
carpet wet
hey mate
their is a plug in the front corner of the channel the wiring sits in
or their is a plug to get to the body bolt in the front corner near the
loud pedal . thats wear mine usually leaks fromhope that helps.
their is a plug in the front corner of the channel the wiring sits in
or their is a plug to get to the body bolt in the front corner near the
loud pedal . thats wear mine usually leaks fromhope that helps.
wish ihad another 80 for spares
now have a new toy.4"lifted n locked t/d 105 series. ya f*#@ken hoo
now have a new toy.4"lifted n locked t/d 105 series. ya f*#@ken hoo
Re: carpet wet
yeah pulled the one at the bottom of the wiring out before to drain the water, will have a look at the other one.rampagingturtle wrote:hey mate
their is a plug in the front corner of the channel the wiring sits in
or their is a plug to get to the body bolt in the front corner near the
loud pedal . thats wear mine usually leaks fromhope that helps.
Thanks
GXL HDJ80 Cruiser - Lifted, Locked, 315's, 3" Zorst, Safari Intercooled, High Flowed Turbo, All the fruit. AMMS tuned coal shovel, Pushing 148rwhp... + heaps of the black sooty goodness...
Mine leaks at the screen too. However, ...the channel under the floor that the chassis bolt lives in and plugcoverst connects to the sill channel, and if the sill fills, the water can and does come up thru the rubber....best thing to do is pull the plugs out of the outer sill and leave them out...if it still gets wet, look for leaks down the side from the screen...but usually, the screen will be obvious as the carpet will be wet on top....so my money is on the sills.
Yeah well like i thought, it wasnt going to be something nice and simple like a lost or split grommet, instead i saw what looked to be tiny rust pimple near the loud pedal stopper, got a screw driver and stabbed it and the big square drive screw driver punched straight through the floor!!!! i said a few words loudly to myself, so now i have to get rust cut out of the floor!
Supposed to be taking it to fraser island on the 12th of Jan, who in brisbane would do a bit of rust work???? cant take it with a 40mm x 15mm (and growing) hole right behind the front wheel and under my toes! ill get saturated Might have to take the D40 Navara instead
Supposed to be taking it to fraser island on the 12th of Jan, who in brisbane would do a bit of rust work???? cant take it with a 40mm x 15mm (and growing) hole right behind the front wheel and under my toes! ill get saturated Might have to take the D40 Navara instead
GXL HDJ80 Cruiser - Lifted, Locked, 315's, 3" Zorst, Safari Intercooled, High Flowed Turbo, All the fruit. AMMS tuned coal shovel, Pushing 148rwhp... + heaps of the black sooty goodness...
hdj105 wrote:I'm guessing this will be your problem as indicated by Andrew?
This is the mount where the inner guard fixes to the firewall, courtesy of another Brissy mate of mine. Must be a QLD thing?
Thats where shes got the hole, no where near as big or serious as that!!!
GXL HDJ80 Cruiser - Lifted, Locked, 315's, 3" Zorst, Safari Intercooled, High Flowed Turbo, All the fruit. AMMS tuned coal shovel, Pushing 148rwhp... + heaps of the black sooty goodness...
Ok on closer inspection, mine is just as bad if not worse then that photo its completely stuffed!!!! it will take a bit more then a little bit of wind and rain to keep me away from fraser we're in a house so we'll be up there reguardless .DavidM wrote:I'ld take my time. If your 'low' keeps up, Fraser will be washed away.
Just need to get this fixed asap because i dont have enough "100 mile and hour" tape to cover the frikken gaping hole!!! if i push my accelarater down hard enough i bet i could push it through the floor!!!!!
Who knows of any decen panel beaters around brisbane? dont care if cheap expensive of what, just want the job done right the first time.
Troy
GXL HDJ80 Cruiser - Lifted, Locked, 315's, 3" Zorst, Safari Intercooled, High Flowed Turbo, All the fruit. AMMS tuned coal shovel, Pushing 148rwhp... + heaps of the black sooty goodness...
Resident Terrorist
Bad luck dude. If cash is not an issue then go see Paul Jenning at The Bump Shop, Eagle Farm.
http://www.thebumpshop.com.au/
http://www.thebumpshop.com.au/
Troy, I've emailed the link to Stu, the owner of the vehicle I posted the picture of. I think he'll chime in and tell you who fixed his and maybe show how it was done too. Dunno what the cost was.vSAHARAx wrote:[
Who knows of any decen panel beaters around brisbane? dont care if cheap expensive of what, just want the job done right the first time.
Troy
Interesting to read your initial response of "mines not that bad" and then yesterdays follow up. I think Stu was quite shocked at what he found!
Greg G
2000 HDJ105
2000 HDJ105
Mate, you were quick - it was only there for a moment - I pulled it as the pics didn't work,
It was Scott at Platypus Creek Paint & Panel at Enogerra and cost was just under $2K.
There was quite a story, but without the pics was rather patchy and useless.
I have sent an email to Greg G (HDJ105) for a bit of a hand and when I understand what and how I will post the whol story.
If you like, pm me with a real email address and I will be happy to directly send the full doco to you.
It is already posted at LCOOL_aus_qld -
http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/0ER2R3kif- ... 20RUST.mht
I'll get it all posted to the forum asap.
cheers
Stuart McMurtrie
Brisbane
It was Scott at Platypus Creek Paint & Panel at Enogerra and cost was just under $2K.
There was quite a story, but without the pics was rather patchy and useless.
I have sent an email to Greg G (HDJ105) for a bit of a hand and when I understand what and how I will post the whol story.
If you like, pm me with a real email address and I will be happy to directly send the full doco to you.
It is already posted at LCOOL_aus_qld -
http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/0ER2R3kif- ... 20RUST.mht
I'll get it all posted to the forum asap.
cheers
Stuart McMurtrie
Brisbane
Very Very informative email Stuart, If HDJ105 can give you a hand posting it up on here then im sure it will help alot of others gain information on the problem, and then this thread should be put in the all series cruiser bible!
I have only owned the cruiser for like 2 months (maybe a bit longer) and i searched high and low around the firewall looking for rust but could not find anything as it was covered up by the factory body deadening, if only i lifted the carpet .
Not to worry, will get it fixed then it is one more problem i can cross off the list!
Troy
I have only owned the cruiser for like 2 months (maybe a bit longer) and i searched high and low around the firewall looking for rust but could not find anything as it was covered up by the factory body deadening, if only i lifted the carpet .
Not to worry, will get it fixed then it is one more problem i can cross off the list!
Troy
GXL HDJ80 Cruiser - Lifted, Locked, 315's, 3" Zorst, Safari Intercooled, High Flowed Turbo, All the fruit. AMMS tuned coal shovel, Pushing 148rwhp... + heaps of the black sooty goodness...
Thank god we're in a house!!! There is apparently another Low up near the Gulf which is supposed to come down the east coast late next week, is this correct???? anyone got any info on it?
The beach didnt look like it was in a good shape, we might be leaving the boat at home but the jet-ski will still be going up whether i have to snatch it the whole way
The beach didnt look like it was in a good shape, we might be leaving the boat at home but the jet-ski will still be going up whether i have to snatch it the whole way
GXL HDJ80 Cruiser - Lifted, Locked, 315's, 3" Zorst, Safari Intercooled, High Flowed Turbo, All the fruit. AMMS tuned coal shovel, Pushing 148rwhp... + heaps of the black sooty goodness...
Toyota design fault can cause RUST
Vehicle? 1993 Australian spec 80 Series GXL wagon – turbo diesel.
Other models? Most likely all 80 Series wagons.
Fault? Rust can develop on the left and right hand firewall.
Where? Around the inner mudguard mounts.
History? This vehicle is not garaged and does not do much beach work. Due to a lack of rust elsewhere, it would appear that these factors probably have little bearing on the fault anyway.
Cure? Read on…….
After spilling some milk in my 80 series, I removed the carpets in order to clean them and remove that incredible smell that milk manages to make after a few days in a hot vehicle in the sun.
I had removed the carpets and was doing a general clean up of the painted metal surfaces inside the cabin, and there it was, the dread of any vehicle owner ….. RUST. It was just to the left of where the front seat passengers feet would be when normally seated with legs stretched out.
When I got under the vehicle and had a look and feel around it didn’t take long to realise that I had a small problem. Looking straight up, I could see the rust around the lower edge of the inner guard mount. My panel beater referred to this panel as the skirt. The skirt mount is on the sloping part of the firewall. The next photo is what I could see when looking straight up. It even still had a dribble of moisture visible.
You cannot see the firewall above the skirt mount, although you can get your hand up there, I had a feel around and could feel large flakes of rust. In the middle of the mount on the bottom edge and just left of the above shot there is a hole about 10mm diameter which has a rubber bung in it.
Next day I was off to a panel beater I have used before for tidying up the vehicle paintwork. A few hours later he had the bad news for me – the rust was more extensive that I had seen and it was on both sides of the vehicle, in similar positions. The bad news was that the mudguards would have to come off, which meant all components inside the engine bay mounted to the mudguards would have to be removed. The exhaust would also have to be removed to provide access to the offending areas.
With the mudguards removed this is what was visible:-
Those two bolt holes are where the skirt is mounted.
The drivers side wasn’t quite as bad. Note the nice flutes pressed into the top edge of the mount. I am guessing the designer at Toyota was having a bad hair day the day he designed these mounts and put the drains on the top edge instead of the bottom. They therefore became water collecting flutes instead of drains. The rubber bung and a good dose of body deadener around the bottom edges of the mount ensure that any water that gets in there is likely to stay for quite a while.
The panel beater cut the affected areas out and welded in new plates – 1.6mm zinc anneal sheet. This is the drivers side again with fireproof curtains visible.
The panel beater then fabricated and welded on some simple brackets which will not hold any moisture. The plates and brackets were then zinc painted and treated with a dose of Tectyl rust preventative and then body deadener..
To give you an idea of the size of the sections that were removed see the 375ml Coke can. This is the passengers (left ) side mount.
I had a look at a couple of other listers 1997 80 series vehicles and we removed the rubber bungs. One vehicle had no water but had a slight rust coloured weep mark on the edge of the seam, but the other vehicle dumped 100ml to 150ml of water out of the bung holes of both of the skirt mounts. The disturbing thing was that this vehicle had not been wet for about three months and had held the water since then or before. Thankfully there was no sign of rust in the water, nor inside the chamber of the mount.
My panel beater believes the best preventative measures to overcome this problem before the rust starts are:-
1 Remove the rubber bungs.
2 Drill additional holes in the bottom face of the mounts.
3 Spray plenty of slightly thinned Tectyl rust preventative into the chamber. Do not replace the bungs. He uses Septone brand and only recommends thinning with mineral turpentine.
All up, the repair cost me a bit less than $2000, and I hope the information I have provided above may help others prevent this unnecessary cost.
If only Mr Toyota had not been having a bad hair day that day…..…
Stuart McMurtrie
Brisbane
Vehicle? 1993 Australian spec 80 Series GXL wagon – turbo diesel.
Other models? Most likely all 80 Series wagons.
Fault? Rust can develop on the left and right hand firewall.
Where? Around the inner mudguard mounts.
History? This vehicle is not garaged and does not do much beach work. Due to a lack of rust elsewhere, it would appear that these factors probably have little bearing on the fault anyway.
Cure? Read on…….
After spilling some milk in my 80 series, I removed the carpets in order to clean them and remove that incredible smell that milk manages to make after a few days in a hot vehicle in the sun.
I had removed the carpets and was doing a general clean up of the painted metal surfaces inside the cabin, and there it was, the dread of any vehicle owner ….. RUST. It was just to the left of where the front seat passengers feet would be when normally seated with legs stretched out.
When I got under the vehicle and had a look and feel around it didn’t take long to realise that I had a small problem. Looking straight up, I could see the rust around the lower edge of the inner guard mount. My panel beater referred to this panel as the skirt. The skirt mount is on the sloping part of the firewall. The next photo is what I could see when looking straight up. It even still had a dribble of moisture visible.
You cannot see the firewall above the skirt mount, although you can get your hand up there, I had a feel around and could feel large flakes of rust. In the middle of the mount on the bottom edge and just left of the above shot there is a hole about 10mm diameter which has a rubber bung in it.
Next day I was off to a panel beater I have used before for tidying up the vehicle paintwork. A few hours later he had the bad news for me – the rust was more extensive that I had seen and it was on both sides of the vehicle, in similar positions. The bad news was that the mudguards would have to come off, which meant all components inside the engine bay mounted to the mudguards would have to be removed. The exhaust would also have to be removed to provide access to the offending areas.
With the mudguards removed this is what was visible:-
Those two bolt holes are where the skirt is mounted.
The drivers side wasn’t quite as bad. Note the nice flutes pressed into the top edge of the mount. I am guessing the designer at Toyota was having a bad hair day the day he designed these mounts and put the drains on the top edge instead of the bottom. They therefore became water collecting flutes instead of drains. The rubber bung and a good dose of body deadener around the bottom edges of the mount ensure that any water that gets in there is likely to stay for quite a while.
The panel beater cut the affected areas out and welded in new plates – 1.6mm zinc anneal sheet. This is the drivers side again with fireproof curtains visible.
The panel beater then fabricated and welded on some simple brackets which will not hold any moisture. The plates and brackets were then zinc painted and treated with a dose of Tectyl rust preventative and then body deadener..
To give you an idea of the size of the sections that were removed see the 375ml Coke can. This is the passengers (left ) side mount.
I had a look at a couple of other listers 1997 80 series vehicles and we removed the rubber bungs. One vehicle had no water but had a slight rust coloured weep mark on the edge of the seam, but the other vehicle dumped 100ml to 150ml of water out of the bung holes of both of the skirt mounts. The disturbing thing was that this vehicle had not been wet for about three months and had held the water since then or before. Thankfully there was no sign of rust in the water, nor inside the chamber of the mount.
My panel beater believes the best preventative measures to overcome this problem before the rust starts are:-
1 Remove the rubber bungs.
2 Drill additional holes in the bottom face of the mounts.
3 Spray plenty of slightly thinned Tectyl rust preventative into the chamber. Do not replace the bungs. He uses Septone brand and only recommends thinning with mineral turpentine.
All up, the repair cost me a bit less than $2000, and I hope the information I have provided above may help others prevent this unnecessary cost.
If only Mr Toyota had not been having a bad hair day that day…..…
Stuart McMurtrie
Brisbane
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