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gq lifts/tyre size help
gq lifts/tyre size help
I just recently bought a gq and want to lift it to run 35s im thinkin i need 4-5"lift but will i need gearing work to run 35s or better to run a slightly smaller tyre to avoid this. Brands would help too.
cheers dez
cheers dez
95 GQ td42
3"lift 33 claws
covered in mud
3"lift 33 claws
covered in mud
hey mate yeah running the lwb td42, wont be my daily driver so use it as a 4x4 rocks,sand,mud planning to do cape york in 09 so bit of highway driving aswell, so pretty open on price for tyres just find the right ones thinkin centipedes had them in the past and were good.
cheers dez
cheers dez
95 GQ td42
3"lift 33 claws
covered in mud
3"lift 33 claws
covered in mud
Re: gq lifts/tyre size help
Hi mate, im running a 4'' lift with 2'' bodylift and 35'' MTZ. Seems to be a good combination. Td42 wth turbo and intercooler and standard gearing.DEZ wrote:I just recently bought a gq and want to lift it to run 35s im thinkin i need 4-5"lift but will i need gearing work to run 35s or better to run a slightly smaller tyre to avoid this. Brands would help too.
cheers dez
Has plenty of power for 35s.

Cheers Den
89 st wagon, 4.2 turbo, top mount intercooler, 3'' zaust, factory locker, 2'' bodylift, 4''lift, superior drop box's, 35'' mtz, custom bullbar, premier winch
gq lifts/tyre size help
Dez
In my GQ Im running a 4" spring 2" body lift and can comfortably fit half worn 36" TSL Swamperson 23mm ofset sunnys. Im also running spacers to move the front diff forward 15mm the only I do get minor scrub on the inner arch in the rear but I reckon a few mm of spacers or 28mm offset could fix this
In regards to your gearing the TD42 should be ok but your speedo will be out and if you intend to rock hop low range will suck as it wont like to crawl. As for brands all depends on what type of 4wding you want to do and how much of a daily driver it is
Paul
Now for you Bogged
We all know you like to copy and paste
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?t=101692
Yes we all agree information can be found in the bible, however the more opinions you can get from people the more informed you will become. This forum like many others on the web is setup for people to discuss problems , solutions and for people to get general information.
Now I dont know you at all but everytime you copy and paste that link dont you think you are wasting bandwidth on the server
In my GQ Im running a 4" spring 2" body lift and can comfortably fit half worn 36" TSL Swamperson 23mm ofset sunnys. Im also running spacers to move the front diff forward 15mm the only I do get minor scrub on the inner arch in the rear but I reckon a few mm of spacers or 28mm offset could fix this
In regards to your gearing the TD42 should be ok but your speedo will be out and if you intend to rock hop low range will suck as it wont like to crawl. As for brands all depends on what type of 4wding you want to do and how much of a daily driver it is
Paul
Now for you Bogged
We all know you like to copy and paste
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?t=101692
Yes we all agree information can be found in the bible, however the more opinions you can get from people the more informed you will become. This forum like many others on the web is setup for people to discuss problems , solutions and for people to get general information.
Now I dont know you at all but everytime you copy and paste that link dont you think you are wasting bandwidth on the server
Hi
I would recommend speaking to the guys at Superior Engineering. They did my 5" lift. I then did a 2" body lift and put on 35" Wranglers. It's a 4.2 petrol/gas and it handles like dream.

I would recommend speaking to the guys at Superior Engineering. They did my 5" lift. I then did a 2" body lift and put on 35" Wranglers. It's a 4.2 petrol/gas and it handles like dream.

2002 GU 3lt wagon 5" lift, reduction gears, 35" MTZ...
'94 Suzuki Sierra SWB 5" lift, 30" MT 's and a winch to pull the bigger trucks through....
'94 Suzuki Sierra SWB 5" lift, 30" MT 's and a winch to pull the bigger trucks through....
Re: gq lifts/tyre size help
so what is the point of the bible?GU_247 wrote:Now for you Bogged
We all know you like to copy and paste
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?t=101692
Yes we all agree information can be found in the bible,
Re: gq lifts/tyre size help
GU_247 wrote:Dez
Yes we all agree information can be found in the bible, however the more opinions you can get from people the more informed you will become.
You seem to assume that people have not read the bible if they ask a question on lifts tyre size brands etc.
the bible contains posts that are up to a few years old as well
You would be very nieve thinking quality of brands doesnt change over the years. Some suppliers come out with new products etc
I say the bible is a usefull tool and have browsed thru it myself.
Just remember the bible is generated from posts so the more experiences you can capture in the posts the more comprehensive the bible will become
yeah i agree bible is good but more peoples opinions and experiences helps alot.
im stuck between a 3" lift and running 33s or go the 5" and run 35s just the $$ factor and gearing and going to high without going wider aswell makes it top heavy (sketchy i rolled a car already) i mean even if i go the 3 i can the a 2" body lift later and roll the 35s.
dez
im stuck between a 3" lift and running 33s or go the 5" and run 35s just the $$ factor and gearing and going to high without going wider aswell makes it top heavy (sketchy i rolled a car already) i mean even if i go the 3 i can the a 2" body lift later and roll the 35s.
dez
95 GQ td42
3"lift 33 claws
covered in mud
3"lift 33 claws
covered in mud
I bought my car with the body lift
If I started from scratchlike I did with my GU I wouldnt have it Just do straight up suspension.But thats my opinion. My barwork is already done to suit bocylift to its a fair bit to change
. It does generate a bit more load on the mounts. If you priodicalyy check the mounts there shouldnt be a problem
Its when they come loose thats they start to rock slightly and crack the body around the mounts are.
if you are going with the body lift make sure they are the same dia as the mount that contacts the body not smaller. (One thing I have to change in mine)
Mine is a Dobinson 4" lift standard rate front, heavy duty rear and drives fine At the moment it is sitting up more around the 4.5-5" markas its only been in for a few weeks
I do still have the 3deg bushes from my 2"lift plus 30mm spacers and it drives fine with the new lift
Have done F+R panhards, moly draglink and new moly tie rod
I have no wheel shimy and the car doesnt track too bad
I still do need to get it wheel aligned so if any thing once my toe in and out is correctly adjusted it should actually be a bit better
And at present Im not runnign swaybars. I still have to extend the swaybars so my engineers cert can be updated
If I started from scratchlike I did with my GU I wouldnt have it Just do straight up suspension.But thats my opinion. My barwork is already done to suit bocylift to its a fair bit to change
. It does generate a bit more load on the mounts. If you priodicalyy check the mounts there shouldnt be a problem
Its when they come loose thats they start to rock slightly and crack the body around the mounts are.
if you are going with the body lift make sure they are the same dia as the mount that contacts the body not smaller. (One thing I have to change in mine)
Mine is a Dobinson 4" lift standard rate front, heavy duty rear and drives fine At the moment it is sitting up more around the 4.5-5" markas its only been in for a few weeks
I do still have the 3deg bushes from my 2"lift plus 30mm spacers and it drives fine with the new lift
Have done F+R panhards, moly draglink and new moly tie rod
I have no wheel shimy and the car doesnt track too bad
I still do need to get it wheel aligned so if any thing once my toe in and out is correctly adjusted it should actually be a bit better
And at present Im not runnign swaybars. I still have to extend the swaybars so my engineers cert can be updated
I used to have a 7 inch lift and 2 inch body lift but have learnt since then and have come back down. I now run 37s with a 4 inch lift without trimming the front guards just by spacing my diff forward and taking about 30mm out of the back of the rear wheel-arches when I did the quarter chop. I have just recently started trimming my guards further and I will be able to fit 40 inch tyres without going bigger than a 4 inch lift. It depends what you want to do with it and how much you want the height for the poser factor but you don't need any bigger than 2 to 3 inches to fit your 35s. If you did want something that looks high, once you go over 5 inches the suspension geometry really gets messed up, that's why superior run drop boxes and longer lower control arms. And I wouldn't touch a body lift.
What's the difference between ignorance and apathy? I don't know and I don't care.
I am an insomniac dyslexic agnostic. I often lay awake all night wondering if there really is a Dog.
I am an insomniac dyslexic agnostic. I often lay awake all night wondering if there really is a Dog.
Extend your bumpstops on the rear so they don't touch or trim the bar and run a bigger offset or wheel spacers. The bumpstop is the easier option.narns1mav wrote:i have a gq with 6 inch lift susp only and 34 jt2's and 16mm longer lower arms and cut quarters and cheezy rear bar some times at full flex the 34's hit the very end of the cheezy bar and they also rub on the inner wheel arch / chassi
What's the difference between ignorance and apathy? I don't know and I don't care.
I am an insomniac dyslexic agnostic. I often lay awake all night wondering if there really is a Dog.
I am an insomniac dyslexic agnostic. I often lay awake all night wondering if there really is a Dog.
Also stops over compression of the spring which can cause premature sagNelso wrote:Extend your bumpstops on the rear so they don't touch or trim the bar and run a bigger offset or wheel spacers. The bumpstop is the easier option.narns1mav wrote:i have a gq with 6 inch lift susp only and 34 jt2's and 16mm longer lower arms and cut quarters and cheezy rear bar some times at full flex the 34's hit the very end of the cheezy bar and they also rub on the inner wheel arch / chassi
Hey DEZ, this isn't exactly an answer to your original question, but have you thought about 34" tyres??
My GQ wagon has a ProComp 4" lift (no body lift), and 33x12.5" Baja Claws. With the rims that are on it (fairly shallow offset), they only really scrub at the top of the inner rear wheel arches. This could be rectified by either fitting bump stops or using a slightly wider offset wheel. I have no doubt that i could run 35's either, but would possibly scrub at full lock.
From my past experience, there is a huge range of "opinion" as to what different people class as "clearing" a tyre. Some people reckon if the cars pointing straight ahead, and you flex it up in a straight line without scrubbing - its great. My personal opinion is clearance both front and rear, drooped and compressed, with full lock to lock clearance.
My personal opinion?? Get yourself a proper lift kit (not a body lift), then go and talk nicely to your mates and see if you can borrow a few different sets of wheels and tyres - and just try them. That way you'll know for sure.
Other handy things to remember ( my own personal opinion):
- A skinnier tyre won't need as much sweeping room around the front guards
- Wider offset wheels offer better stability & look good, but also create a wider swinging radius on the front wheels.
- Patrols have got end-point steering stops that can be adjusted to stop the steering BEFORE you tear your guards out with the tyres
Good luck champ! - Coxy
My GQ wagon has a ProComp 4" lift (no body lift), and 33x12.5" Baja Claws. With the rims that are on it (fairly shallow offset), they only really scrub at the top of the inner rear wheel arches. This could be rectified by either fitting bump stops or using a slightly wider offset wheel. I have no doubt that i could run 35's either, but would possibly scrub at full lock.
From my past experience, there is a huge range of "opinion" as to what different people class as "clearing" a tyre. Some people reckon if the cars pointing straight ahead, and you flex it up in a straight line without scrubbing - its great. My personal opinion is clearance both front and rear, drooped and compressed, with full lock to lock clearance.
My personal opinion?? Get yourself a proper lift kit (not a body lift), then go and talk nicely to your mates and see if you can borrow a few different sets of wheels and tyres - and just try them. That way you'll know for sure.
Other handy things to remember ( my own personal opinion):
- A skinnier tyre won't need as much sweeping room around the front guards
- Wider offset wheels offer better stability & look good, but also create a wider swinging radius on the front wheels.
- Patrols have got end-point steering stops that can be adjusted to stop the steering BEFORE you tear your guards out with the tyres
Good luck champ! - Coxy
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