td42 starting

Post by **DEZ** » Sun Jan 13, 2008 1:13 pm

Ive noticed that starting my gq with the td42 takes a fair few cranks to start even when warm just seein if this is an issue or anything i can do to help it. its done 218000.

cheers dez

Post by **GQmayhem** » Sun Jan 13, 2008 1:28 pm

does the starter motor need pulling down and cleaning??
rebuilding??? mine done a simillar thing i just pulled it down
and found it was full of 10years road grime and mud....
its been fine ever since. i had to do this twice, first time was
a half arsed effort

. do it once do it right....

Post by **DEZ** » Sun Jan 13, 2008 3:10 pm

the starter motor seems fine it kicks it over fine and sounds quite normal just takes a few for the engine to kick. where ive seen some td42s just half a turn and they fire.

Post by **MyGQ** » Sun Jan 13, 2008 3:44 pm

Mine had this problem a bit ago

The engine sounded almost fine but would take forever to crank over when the day before it would take 1/4 turn and she was there, turned out to be the starter motor drawing too much currant and would shut down the diesel cut solinoid till the alt got a few cranks in her to generate a bit of currant to open the cut off solinoid, took a bit to work out, but its back to normal now

Post by **DEZ** » Sun Jan 13, 2008 4:23 pm

that would explain a lot how did you solve it any things i can test to see if this is the prob??

cheers dez

Post by **MyGQ** » Sun Jan 13, 2008 4:45 pm

you need a multimeter and have it hooked up when the engine is started and check the voltage drop, if the drop is excessive then you know it cutting out the other components that aid in starting like the power the the glow plugs when cold and the Diesel cut off.

I didn't know myself until i was told to have it checked, took it to my mate who runs an auto elec shop, he hooked up his multi and i cranked it over and stopped it quite a few times, the voltage drop what extremly high, he pulled the starter out and stripped it down, the bush holders were that far rusted and scored that it would have probably lasted another 5 cranks and blew up completly, he overhauled it for me while i was there (good bloke this one) and boom when it went back in, cranked over like she was brand new again, and its all happy, cold or hot it takes 1/4 turn and she fires everytime.

Post by **DEZ** » Sun Jan 13, 2008 7:57 pm

ah ok so not something you could fix with a bigger cca battery? but does sounds the same as mine might have to go to a auto sparkie for it thanks for the help

Post by **hammey** » Sun Jan 13, 2008 8:12 pm

sounds like you have a rusted brush.

mine has done it twice. pull the motor off, give the reduction box a good clean out. I use spray mollybon

pull the armature out and check the brush set making sure they all move freely.

cheers smitty

Post by **DEZ** » Mon Jan 14, 2008 6:02 pm

ah so just pull it out and pull it down clean/lub it all??

just got the gq what are they like to pull out easy/ pain in the arse ?

dez

Post by **DEZ** » Mon Mar 17, 2008 6:52 pm

alight finially got around to changing the thing. result was good for awhile untill i put a long range tank in ( dual tanks ) and problem has come back for the exception of first in the morning starting it always spot on. seems when its warm it takes a fair few cranks to go. could it be air getting in ??
cold start = perfect warm start = issues

thanx dez

Post by **MyGQ** » Mon Mar 17, 2008 9:37 pm

ok well there could be a injector pump problem

Post by **DEZ** » Sun Mar 23, 2008 3:58 pm

hope not

just when it was still standard tank it was as you said 1/4 turn everytime and now as i put the tank and changed the fuel filter its not as bad but still not spot on.

thanx for the replies

Post by **toughnut** » Sun Mar 23, 2008 4:08 pm

Do the easy thing first and run a second earth to your engine. Nissans have a fairly shite earth lead. You can get one from supercrap for bugger all and bolt it straight on. Do this first and then look for the more expensive fixes.

Forgot to clarify that my truck was doing basically the same thing and was getting worse. The earth was corroding gradually and once I added another earth lead to the engine, it was sweet.

Post by **DEZ** » Sun Mar 23, 2008 5:54 pm

now thats something i never thought of, il just double check where the earth lead is ??

thanx

Post by **toughnut** » Sun Mar 23, 2008 6:31 pm

Better to run a second lead rather than just replacing the original because it doesn't run directly to your engine.

Post by **DEZ** » Sun Mar 23, 2008 6:51 pm

ok cool so hook it onto the earth cable at battery and bolt it where to the engine sorry only got basic knowledge

cheers

Post by **toughnut** » Sun Mar 23, 2008 6:54 pm

DEZ wrote:ok cool so hook it onto the earth cable at battery and bolt it where to the engine sorry only got basic knowledge

cheers

Thats exactly right. You should be able to bolt it to the intake manifold somewhere near the front. Then just zip tie it so it doesn't get in the way of anything like the fan.

Post by **DEZ** » Tue Mar 25, 2008 8:34 am

Problem solved

spent yesterday doing battery terminals and the new earth lead, and replaced some clamps on the fuel lines and so far so good
thanx for the help cheers

Post by **toughnut** » Sun Mar 30, 2008 1:54 pm

No worries. It always good when the fix turns out to be cheap and simple. That is once the frustration of chasing the problem has passed.

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