Body lift induced Vehicle Roll + Block Material Questions

[.:Dave:.]

Hi all,

I’m working on a hydraulic 2 inch lift at the moment and have run into snags with clearance issues between the suspension mounts and the body. Therefore a body lift might be necessary.

My concern is the body roll induced as a result of the height. The plan of the project is to only have the suspension lift when needed and at low speeds, but I am still a little concerned with the extra height.

Did you guys experience a great deal of roll when lifted?

Also, what sort of material should I use for the body blocks? I’m trying to stay away from the plastic/nylon stuff as I have access to a lathe. I’m hoping to cut a length of metal down to size. I know that steel is available, but will have to go and purchase aluminium.

(I plan to powder coat steel block to reduce possibility of corrosion. )

Will lifting 1inch instead of 2 remove the need to bend transfer case levers etc.

Your ideas on this would be appreciated

Cheers

Dave
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[Dexter]

I am not certain about the bending of the transfer leavers, but it would have to be very close I reckon. Think the only trouble you might run into is that the rubber boot(corrigated thing) might be a little too compressed and you will jump out of low range. Is there any particular reason you dont want to use the plastic blocks?
I cant say that I noticed a difference with the body lift in my NL when I went up two inches, remember that only the body moves up so the majority of the weight stays at the same height, win win I reckon, but I would only be considering a body lift if I was doing it to fit larger tyres as I dont really see the point otherwise.

[.:Dave:.]

Thanks Dexter,

I just was looking for something i can machine up. Its a uni based project so budget is an issue, just wanted to use stuff i have access to.

I would be interested in larger tires when they are up for replacing, Have to consider, lager diameter power/economy aspects though.


Cheers

Dave
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[klrevo]

you said you have a lathe, soooooooo,

im preusming you know how to use it right, buy some ali bar 65mm, cut it up, 10mm hole through the middle, chamfer the edges, done, how hard is it.

just buy the ali bar, youll need what, 2 foot of it, 50 bucks at the most, got mine for free.

dean.

[NJV6]

I thought mosat people recommended UHMWPE....... (Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene)

[.:Dave:.]

Yeah.... i should probably go the better stuff

I am just being a tight ass and seeing if i can make it out of a bit of steel i have laying around. Already spending 1500+ for the hydraulics :(

Any ideas on the transfer case lever, (educated guess based on the 2 inch one)

Thanks

[CapnCrunch]

I have a 2" suspension lift and a 2" body lift (using UHMWPE blocks...no problem there) on my 88 and I didn't have to bend any shifters. No problem with body roll. Most of the time my swaybar is left off, and I notice a little body roll going around sharp corners, but with the swaybar on it's a non-issue.

[NJV6]

Well I put 1 inch block in and had to bend the lever. BUT remember mine had 30mm extra from factory so I am not sure if that makes any differnce - I doubt it would as the box I guess sits higher as well.

I am just ripping out a factory hydraulic lift from a Paj.......

[.:Dave:.]

Your ripping one out and ive spent the last 8 month designing one from scratch!

Why you getting rid of it, not working?

Interested in sending it to AUS? Im sure we could work something out. Very keen on getting my hands on one of these.

Let me know,

Dave
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[NJV6]

I could do. No problem. It'll be a few weeks away though...

Still OK?

It is coming from the one under the heading The Chop so it will be surplus. To be honest I don't know if it works as I ahve never had it going.... I don't see why it wouldn't!

[.:Dave:.]

Just to finish of the topic

I spoke to the certifying engineering that will be looking at the hydraulic components when they go on. He said that an elastomer is not acceptable, and that I may use a ferrous or non ferrous metal (aluminium or steel).

I’m happy with this, I now have no choice but to use the steel I already have.

He also recommended grade 5 bolts not grade 8:

“Grade 8 does not have much elongation and have been known to fail in conditions wherein flexure is present"


P.S. Edcon steel (Arndell Park) $165 for 1m of 65mm Round Aluminium Bar and Blackwoods quoted $160 for 1m of UHMWPE (probably not the best place for it).

You could by a kit for this much


Steel is significantly cheaper.



NJV6: PM Sent

Dave
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[Dexter]

Well I put 1 inch block in and had to bend the lever. BUT remember mine had 30mm extra from factory so I am not sure if that makes any differnce - I doubt it would as the box I guess sits higher as well.

I am just ripping out a factory hydraulic lift from a Paj.......

I didn't know that the NJ's had the extra lift as well.

[-Scott-]

Well I put 1 inch block in and had to bend the lever. BUT remember mine had 30mm extra from factory so I am not sure if that makes any differnce - I doubt it would as the box I guess sits higher as well.

I am just ripping out a factory hydraulic lift from a Paj.......

I didn't know that the NJ's had the extra lift as well.

Anything with the 3.5 / 2.8.