Hey all.
I know there are numerous posts on body lifts etc but im just enquiring about my specific one and a few questions i have been unable to answer through the search. My plan is the following:
I've Currently got the 83 chassis with 85 shell about to go on it.
-Going a 2 inch lft
-Get some engeneering/metal shop to make me up 10 square blocks 50 mm high.
-Then going to get some 50 mm rubber mounts for the other 14 or so mounting points around the body and glue these in. Is this legal/illegal?
-do you guys use rubber inbetween the mounting blocks and body/chassis? or straight metal on metal?
-Are there any issues wtih metal on metal?
-Mounting the blocks:
Option 1:
Not sure whether to get them to tap in some thread on both sides of it.
Then i have to shorten the bolt lengths on the shell and re-thread it. and get some more bolts to go in from underneath
Option 2: get them to drill out the centre enough to have the bolt threads going through them and extended out the bottom.
Does anyone know what the bolt with a female thread would be called? or some type of long nut that both bolts could srew into?
-I haven't yet got the quote for the rubber things but will be getting a call today from clark rubber. Also need to call a workshop for the metal blocks. Do you think it would just be cheaper to go with the suzisport blocks?
What do you think would be the safest/legal option?
Or am i going about this the complete wrong way.
Cheers
Ethan
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More Bodylift Questions
Re: More Bodylift Questions
Cripes - too many questions
I'm not 100# sure that this will work... 83 is a NT 1L, 85 is a NT1.3L so they will be a bit different.
For the "other" mounts - we used some 50x50mm box, welded on to the chassis with the original rubber spacers stuck to the top of them - so it still has body-on-rubber.
For the body mounts we used all the original rubber spacers too - with the body lift blocks (i think) on the body side - so it went body, block, rubber, chassis...
We used something close to option 2 - the body blocks were made out of aluminium and were drilled out wide enough to fit a female-threaded bolt up into them to capture the original body bolt that hangs down from the body... if you look under the body you will have 10 body mounts all up i think - 4 require longer bolts to be bought, 6 require the female-threaded bolts to be made up and used... The female bolts we used were custom made... i don't know if you can buy them...
I think the best option is to use all the existing rubber, make sure you support all the existing body mounts, and body spacer areas and don't cut off any existing captive bolts...
Hope that helps a bit.
cheers
molch wrote:I've Currently got the 83 chassis with 85 shell about to go on it.
I'm not 100# sure that this will work... 83 is a NT 1L, 85 is a NT1.3L so they will be a bit different.
molch wrote:-Going a 2 inch lft
-Get some engeneering/metal shop to make me up 10 square blocks 50 mm high.
-Then going to get some 50 mm rubber mounts for the other 14 or so mounting points around the body and glue these in. Is this legal/illegal?
-do you guys use rubber inbetween the mounting blocks and body/chassis? or straight metal on metal?
-Are there any issues wtih metal on metal?
For the "other" mounts - we used some 50x50mm box, welded on to the chassis with the original rubber spacers stuck to the top of them - so it still has body-on-rubber.
For the body mounts we used all the original rubber spacers too - with the body lift blocks (i think) on the body side - so it went body, block, rubber, chassis...
molch wrote:
-Mounting the blocks:
Option 1:
Not sure whether to get them to tap in some thread on both sides of it.
Then i have to shorten the bolt lengths on the shell and re-thread it. and get some more bolts to go in from underneath
Option 2: get them to drill out the centre enough to have the bolt threads going through them and extended out the bottom.
Does anyone know what the bolt with a female thread would be called? or some type of long nut that both bolts could srew into?
-I haven't yet got the quote for the rubber things but will be getting a call today from clark rubber. Also need to call a workshop for the metal blocks. Do you think it would just be cheaper to go with the suzisport blocks?
What do you think would be the safest/legal option?
Or am i going about this the complete wrong way.
We used something close to option 2 - the body blocks were made out of aluminium and were drilled out wide enough to fit a female-threaded bolt up into them to capture the original body bolt that hangs down from the body... if you look under the body you will have 10 body mounts all up i think - 4 require longer bolts to be bought, 6 require the female-threaded bolts to be made up and used... The female bolts we used were custom made... i don't know if you can buy them...
I think the best option is to use all the existing rubber, make sure you support all the existing body mounts, and body spacer areas and don't cut off any existing captive bolts...
Hope that helps a bit.
cheers
DMA Founding Member #1 - Now Retired
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