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Ok, went to fit some new front shocks today, but found that the tard that fitted them did a really shitty job. The shocks were replaced under warranty when I bought the vehicle, and I'm guessing that they gave the job to a first year apprentoid who seems to have cross threaded just about everything he touched on the job
I've managed to get everything undone except for the one bottom bolt on the rhs front shock. Any advice on how to extract the farker? I DON'T have access to oxy or anything to heat it. I've tried a couple of things to try and "push" it through while unscrewing, but it comes out about 2 - 3mm and that's it. A couple of pics below:
Got a ball joint breaker , seeing your changing the shock hammer it into the side where the nut is to preload bolt , then undo and hold pressure on it , rattle gun is the best , otherwise drill it out and bolt and nut it , Cheers Paul.
CRC in the thread area, work it back and forward as much as is possible.
Keep adding CRC - keep working it and who knows, but its worth a try.
If all else fails grind or cold chisel the nut off and as MART said use a nut and bolt ( best make it grade 8 and use a nylock nut ). You can get it plenty tight as the steel sleeve in the bottom eye will stop it crushing the mount.
Hope the "doggies" live up to expectations, otherwise all the drama isn't going to make you a happy chap
( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
Sorry, should've clarified things. Thread is farked from being cross threaded. I can turn it, but it only comes out 2-3mm. I'll try a balljoint breaker and CRC tomorrow. Failing that I'll take it round to the workshop and hit it with the rattle gun.
Is there enough thread on the other side of that fixed nut to start threading in another bolt? If so, wind another bolt in from the other side while undoing the offending bolt and it should come out. Plenty of CRC as stated.
RAY185 wrote:Is there enough thread on the other side of that fixed nut to start threading in another bolt? If so, wind another bolt in from the other side while undoing the offending bolt and it should come out. Plenty of CRC as stated.
Might have to try that
Trouble is it needs rto be pushed or pulled out as the thread is stuffed
RAY185 wrote:Is there enough thread on the other side of that fixed nut to start threading in another bolt? If so, wind another bolt in from the other side while undoing the offending bolt and it should come out. Plenty of CRC as stated.
Might have to try that
Trouble is it needs rto be pushed or pulled out as the thread is stuffed
RAY185 wrote:Is there enough thread on the other side of that fixed nut to start threading in another bolt? If so, wind another bolt in from the other side while undoing the offending bolt and it should come out. Plenty of CRC as stated.
Might have to try that
Trouble is it needs rto be pushed or pulled out as the thread is stuffed
RAY185 wrote:Is there enough thread on the other side of that fixed nut to start threading in another bolt? If so, wind another bolt in from the other side while undoing the offending bolt and it should come out. Plenty of CRC as stated.
Might have to try that
Trouble is it needs rto be pushed or pulled out as the thread is stuffed
drill it out, and heli-coil the biatch
x2
Why? It's a dodge captive nut. Why would you bother with the time and expense to helicoil it when you can cut and replace in half the time with virtually no cost. Helicoils are for things that HAVE to be repaired as the alternative is much more expensive, like engine block or head. Dosen't make sense to me ...
you can buy a freeze spray made by locktite (can get from repco $15).
Spray this on the bolt and if it is corroded it might shock it into releasing (same idea as using oxy but without burning everthing ), and use impact or breaker bar with a impact socket and a piece of pipe, having failed that, cut it off and tack weld a new nut on...
Brad
3.0L turbo diesel, 4" lift, bud's front housing, track assasin cv's, air lokker front + Rear, beadlock'd 37 stickies, high steer, 15.5" travel ranchos, high pinion diff and coils on the rear
get a mate with a pin punch and hammer to tap it from the back while you turn it slowly and wd40 never hurts either.
Then ideally you'd grind the nut off and weld a newy on, but if you don't have the gear just get bolt of the same size thread and pitch and nylock nut as mentioned - to make the thread fit through the old nut you can drill the stuffed thread, if a drill won't fit use a tap - same thread as new bolt and a small shifter to re cut a path for the new bolt - make sure you put a new nut as well as the old one will now be too weak.
There are no stupid questions, but there are a LOT of inquisitive idiots
i had a similar problem. when it came out, the thread came out with it...
so i bodgied it up with a longer bolt so it still got into what was left of the thread. 80 series though.
Haven't had a chance to look at it yet I'll try to catch up with a mate who is at least partially mechanically competent next weekend and see if he can give it a tap as i try to unscrew it. If the other side is anything to go by, the nut should be ok, it's just the thread on the bolt that's rooted.
