What you use in your svivel pin housing, oil or grease??

[kitacooch]

Just wondering what you guys prefer to use in your swivel pin housings, oil or grease?? I know up to 97 discos designed for oil and 99 on designed for one shot grease, i have 99 model diffs and so am supposed to run the one shot grease. Been told waste of $30 per side and to use oil, others say use heavy duty oil stabilizer, and others say use just normal high temp grease. What you guys using?? In the later diffs how do you check to see if water in you pin housing without pulling apart. Earlier mods running oil have a drain plug usefull for checking for water but the later ones don't have that drain plug.
Cheers guys

[lokka]

I use a mix of both i pack the cv's with hi temp grease and then fill the housing with 90 grade oil

[Mark2]

I use whatever is thin enough to get in but thick enough not to leak out too quickly - depends on wiper seal condition.
Usually Moreys oil stabiliser - about the viscosity of honey..........

[Reddo]

started with grease only, but found that it did not cover the CV and swivel bearings etc well enough, and failed indicate seal failure.

So made up a mixture of both, and this seems to work really well. Also should provide seal lubrication and indicate seal failure should this happen - by doing the Rover thingy.

[schuler]

I use whatever is thin enough to get in but thick enough not to leak out too quickly - depends on wiper seal condition.
Usually Moreys oil stabiliser - about the viscosity of honey..........

Yeah when i had my swivels rotated, Andrew Richmond suggested the same, should make it easy to evacuate all the shrapnel from the swivels when things go pear shaped

Steve

[armbrup]

I use whatever is thin enough to get in but thick enough not to leak out too quickly - depends on wiper seal condition.
Usually Moreys oil stabiliser - about the viscosity of honey..........

The Rover one shot is not normal grease but is very thin NGLI 000?

An NGLI grease "grade" is similar in many ways to an oil viscosity measurement. A grease is made by taking oil, adding thickener and sometimes additives to impart special characteristics to the grease. For example, some additives protect metal surfaces against corrosion. The testing of the grease, and the derivation of the "grade" is done by testing by dropping a special cone into the grease to achieve a "penetration" number. This number equates to a rating of 000 (semi fluid=melted ice cream) to 6 (frozen butter).
Generally speaking, 80% of the applications in the world for vacuum grease use a #2 grade.

It is thin enough to fill very nook of the hub. I have pulled one apart and it is everywhere.
Specialists such as Graeme Cooper have their own packed locally much cheaper.
Mine still leaks a little from a rust spot on my ball but overall I reckon it's great.
I heard a hint to empty them a while ago. Top up the hub with ATF and drive around the block.
The amount in the tubes is very small 150CC? , but that is correct. They should not be filled up like they are with oil.
Regards Philip A

[kitacooch]

I use whatever is thin enough to get in but thick enough not to leak out too quickly - depends on wiper seal condition.
Usually Moreys oil stabiliser - about the viscosity of honey..........

The Rover one shot is not normal grease but is very thin NGLI 000?

An NGLI grease "grade" is similar in many ways to an oil viscosity measurement. A grease is made by taking oil, adding thickener and sometimes additives to impart special characteristics to the grease. For example, some additives protect metal surfaces against corrosion. The testing of the grease, and the derivation of the "grade" is done by testing by dropping a special cone into the grease to achieve a "penetration" number. This number equates to a rating of 000 (semi fluid=melted ice cream) to 6 (frozen butter).
Generally speaking, 80% of the applications in the world for vacuum grease use a #2 grade.

It is thin enough to fill very nook of the hub. I have pulled one apart and it is everywhere.
Specialists such as Graeme Cooper have their own packed locally much cheaper.
Mine still leaks a little from a rust spot on my ball but overall I reckon it's great.
I heard a hint to empty them a while ago. Top up the hub with ATF and drive around the block.
The amount in the tubes is very small 150CC? , but that is correct. They should not be filled up like they are with oil.
Regards Philip A

Thanks guys i appreciate your imput, if you use a home mix would you still only go with the 150cc? what would happen if you over fill?
what is ATF please?
Graeme Cooper? is he a distributor or a shop, how do i find his products??
Will google him in mean time.
Cheers Guys

[armbrup]

what is ATF please?

ATF=Automatic Transmission Fluid.

Re the 150CC. I do not know, but probably. But don't blame me if it seizes, as my only experience is with the proper stuff.

Google Graeme Cooper.
Regards Philip A[/quote]

[rick130]

the 'One Shot' grease is just an ordinary Lithium complex grease with 3% moly that is very thin, being an NLGI #00.
A 00 grease isn't the easiest thing to find in Oz, so, like the others here I just mix some 80w-140 gear lube and an NLGI #2 Li complex moly grease up and use that.

BTW, IIRC it's about 370ml in each sachet per swivel.

[ISUZUROVER]

I have always used straight 80W90EP gear oil. I have pulled my inner seals so the same oil runs through everything - from hub-hub.

[kitacooch]

the 'One Shot' grease is just an ordinary Lithium complex grease with 3% moly that is very thin, being an NLGI #00.
A 00 grease isn't the easiest thing to find in Oz, so, like the others here I just mix some 80w-140 gear lube and an NLGI #2 Li complex moly grease up and use that.

BTW, IIRC it's about 370ml in each sachet per swivel.

the moly you refer to, is that the bottle of moly you add to you engine oil, gear oil etc at $70 or so a bottle to cote your working components with a ceramic protective coating??