My LHR caliper keeps sticking.I have used the pads in 2 months.I know its not the slides cause when i pull the caliper up it slides o.k.
The rubber is stuffed that goes over the piston which i am getting a new cover but even when the cover was o.k. the piston kept getting stuck outwards and not returning.
I use a G clamp to push the piston back in.
I have been told to lube the piston with the following:
a) Brake fluid as it is whats used to push the piston out.
b)WD40 as it helps lubricate it.( I think that this is what stuffed the rubber)
c)Grease as it will also prevent shit getting in behind the piston.
What advice can i get from anyone that is probably better than the info i have been given by "MECHANICS".
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LHR brake caliper sticking
Re: LHR brake caliper sticking
I ended up gettin some reconditioned calipers..CB0569 wrote: I have been told to lube the piston with the following:
a) Brake fluid as it is whats used to push the piston out.
b)WD40 as it helps lubricate it.( I think that this is what stuffed the rubber)
c)Grease as it will also prevent shit getting in behind the piston.
What advice can i get from anyone that is probably better than the info i have been given by "MECHANICS".
when you do put a caliper kit in there, you do use brake fluid to lube everything, clean the piston with LIGHT emery to remove any crap, and take ya time, but left rear is common to seize up
I have a bottle of brake caliper 'lube', it is designed as a assembly lube when assembling calipers, only cost about $15-20 from the local parts store. I've done 6 calipers so far with it, and still have plenty left.
Once the caliper is built with it, they can sit for ages and not rust, as it is quite think and sticke to all surfaces.
Once the caliper is built with it, they can sit for ages and not rust, as it is quite think and sticke to all surfaces.
ID say u already fixed it by now but just to share some info with u guys, A company called Burt Bros in fairfield sydney sells caliper kits for under 10 bucks a side. Nissan want over 100 per side, same rubbers and all fits perfectly. Did mine a few months back and working as they should be now instead of sticking as they were.
118 fairfield road
Fairfield
02 9681 1188 pretty sure they will post em to u.
I am in no way affiliated with these guys, just letting some of u know incase others are wanting to overhaul their calipers.
Ange
118 fairfield road
Fairfield
02 9681 1188 pretty sure they will post em to u.
I am in no way affiliated with these guys, just letting some of u know incase others are wanting to overhaul their calipers.
Ange
I just tried these guys in fairfield and they didn't have any stock and didn't sound to keen to post to brisbane anyway. They put me onto a mob in brissy who make the kits. Don't know the name of the place but they are in Wynnum. 3396 3160 is the phone number and they are $16.50 each side. Think that might have been trade. The part number for those interested for single piston GQ patrol front calipers is K2013F.
1989 Ford Maverick Turbo Diesel Tourer
4" spring lift 2" body lift
33" MT/R's
4" spring lift 2" body lift
33" MT/R's
Very interesting comments regards the brake calipers.
Very strange though, that the left hand rear should pose any problems, after all what's the difference from the right ?
A little tip, when it comes to brake calipers of ANY make car.
No 1, VERY IMPORTANT TO REPLACE THE MOUNTING BOLTS EACH TIME
YOU REPLACE THE PADS.
These things wear off centre, thus would not help in your sticking
problem.
No 2, Many manufacturers, (uncluding Nissan) provide you with SILICONE
GREASE for lubrication of your components, such as these bolts and
your caliper pistons.
Such grease is available from bearing shops quiet readily and cost
effective as well.
To my knowledge, Nissan RECOMMENDS such grease be used for
this purpose.
And EMERY paper on your piston ?????? Good God, you're havin a lend of us surely ?
Definately never a recommendation of mine that's fer sure.
Reminds me of the legend that used to be repeated at work.
Went something like this;
After over haul of a locomotive engine, it was claimed the fitters would power a container of Bon Ami down the air intake whilst the engine was running, this was supposed to remove the glaze on the cylinder liners.
Course, I could never find a fitter who would support such an allegation.
IMHO, IF, and I stress the IF, you must smooth off something like such a piston, try using 1200 wet and dry with kero as lubricant.
If done judicously and with care, to damage the componenant would require more rubbing then you'd like to do, so the chances of damage would be minimal.
PLEASE !!!!! stay away from the emery stuff.
Very strange though, that the left hand rear should pose any problems, after all what's the difference from the right ?
A little tip, when it comes to brake calipers of ANY make car.
No 1, VERY IMPORTANT TO REPLACE THE MOUNTING BOLTS EACH TIME
YOU REPLACE THE PADS.
These things wear off centre, thus would not help in your sticking
problem.
No 2, Many manufacturers, (uncluding Nissan) provide you with SILICONE
GREASE for lubrication of your components, such as these bolts and
your caliper pistons.
Such grease is available from bearing shops quiet readily and cost
effective as well.
To my knowledge, Nissan RECOMMENDS such grease be used for
this purpose.
And EMERY paper on your piston ?????? Good God, you're havin a lend of us surely ?
Definately never a recommendation of mine that's fer sure.
Reminds me of the legend that used to be repeated at work.
Went something like this;
After over haul of a locomotive engine, it was claimed the fitters would power a container of Bon Ami down the air intake whilst the engine was running, this was supposed to remove the glaze on the cylinder liners.
Course, I could never find a fitter who would support such an allegation.
IMHO, IF, and I stress the IF, you must smooth off something like such a piston, try using 1200 wet and dry with kero as lubricant.
If done judicously and with care, to damage the componenant would require more rubbing then you'd like to do, so the chances of damage would be minimal.
PLEASE !!!!! stay away from the emery stuff.
I have my rear right piston stuck the dust cover has broken and killed it. I am wanting to replace it i went to the local brake shop they have no such part on there books has anyone got a new one? I will pull mine out asap and take it into them to measure will this work? They hope to find one that will match.
Sold the patrol just web wheelin now.
what are you after? The piston, or the rubber boot or a reconditioned caliper?g4cube wrote:I have my rear right piston stuck the dust cover has broken and killed it. I am wanting to replace it i went to the local brake shop they have no such part on there books has anyone got a new one? I will pull mine out asap and take it into them to measure will this work? They hope to find one that will match.
The piston it's self is what i was after.
So i got it out today and with a lot of work got it all cleaned up and it will be fine. Went to the brake shop with the piston they measured it and found one that fits and was $55 each said no since he agreed that mine in the end would be fine.
So i got it out today and with a lot of work got it all cleaned up and it will be fine. Went to the brake shop with the piston they measured it and found one that fits and was $55 each said no since he agreed that mine in the end would be fine.
Sold the patrol just web wheelin now.
All sorted now some very fine steel wool was needed to get the crap off it. Gave everything a good rubber grease put it back on with the new pads and works a treat. With my bro help was quite easy to do in the end. Both sides were very dirty i take it that a full going over was way over due.
Sold the patrol just web wheelin now.
Was the piston scuffed at all when you cleaned it?g4cube wrote:All sorted now some very fine steel wool was needed to get the crap off it. Gave everything a good rubber grease put it back on with the new pads and works a treat. With my bro help was quite easy to do in the end. Both sides were very dirty i take it that a full going over was way over due.
If so it is stuffed, the piston is the sealing surface for the caliper & must be completely free of imperfections.
What you needed was a major parts caliper kit & I am very surprised you cannot get one from a brake specialist shop, our local
repco can get them in so a brake shop should be able to.
Try elsewhere & then rebuild it properly.
The red Castrol rubber grease can be used as a lubricant for the seals, I have used it all my working life with no issues.
Don't ask me, ask them. I'm just runnin for my life myself.
Well they are all following you...
No they ain't, I'm just in front...............
Well they are all following you...
No they ain't, I'm just in front...............
Was all fine mate had the brake shop guy look over them and in his opinion they were in good condition. Just took a lot of work to get them clean. You can't go to town on them with anything heavy or rough as you will take the hard facing off them then they really are dead.
Since the 4b is used a lot on the dirt it seems its a good idea to check and clean them regularly along with the wheel bearings.
Since the 4b is used a lot on the dirt it seems its a good idea to check and clean them regularly along with the wheel bearings.
Sold the patrol just web wheelin now.
pistons often scuff at the bottom edge, this never gets to the point of the seal, and if you clean the shit off its been scuffing on you should get away with it.
ive had pistons that i had to weld a nut on the top of so i could grip it to get it out, cleaned it up and used it til they could get me one in, for a week or so.
brakes are over rated anyway, if one goes, youve got 3 others til all the fluid runs out
they usually start seizing when they are left with fluid in them for a while, and the fluid sits behind the seal and goes hard and pushes the seal too firmly against the piston. when you overhaul them, make sure you get all the shit of the seal groove, if not you are wasting your time.
cheers, andrew
ive had pistons that i had to weld a nut on the top of so i could grip it to get it out, cleaned it up and used it til they could get me one in, for a week or so.
brakes are over rated anyway, if one goes, youve got 3 others til all the fluid runs out
they usually start seizing when they are left with fluid in them for a while, and the fluid sits behind the seal and goes hard and pushes the seal too firmly against the piston. when you overhaul them, make sure you get all the shit of the seal groove, if not you are wasting your time.
cheers, andrew
97 GQ patrol coilcab. TD42, safari turbo kit with fiddled turbo, D-GAS kit. dyno results to come...
4inch lift, king springs, efs and procomp shocks
315/70R16 cooper ST's
found fuel economy...
4inch lift, king springs, efs and procomp shocks
315/70R16 cooper ST's
found fuel economy...
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