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NEED HELP DYING RANGIE
Moderator: Micka
NEED HELP DYING RANGIE
hy im new to this so be gental on me im wondering if there is some one who can help as I have an 88 rangie and am very happy with it.
my problem is some 5 weeks after buing it the motor is starting to run a bit hot and no matter how its timed it rattles .
so my questions are 1 has anybody got a good motor they want to sell
2 if i rebuild a 3.5 is it better to stroke it out
3 and where do I get the parts to stroke it any way
i have a spare 3.5 efi and if you stroke it out do you have to run a diferent ecu.
I know this may sound dum but ive never run efi before
cheers Dave
my problem is some 5 weeks after buing it the motor is starting to run a bit hot and no matter how its timed it rattles .
so my questions are 1 has anybody got a good motor they want to sell
2 if i rebuild a 3.5 is it better to stroke it out
3 and where do I get the parts to stroke it any way
i have a spare 3.5 efi and if you stroke it out do you have to run a diferent ecu.
I know this may sound dum but ive never run efi before
cheers Dave
Welcome.
I am a little new to rangies as well, but to stroke a 3.5 costs a lot, you would need a crank with more offset on the crankpins.
My first 88 RR developed problems, I didnt find the fault until the counterweights in the dizzy cut the top off the body, fitted another dizzy and has been going well ever since.
The 88 flapper EFI are the most forgiving systems, I am using one on my 110 on a p76 engine soon. They will run with a stock ECU but a retune will improve it. RPI advise to use it rather than hotwire for even a 4.6 update.
For a general driver stick with a 3.5 if you want to keep economy, anything larger uses more fuel.
EFI is a great improvement over carbs, tend to be less trouble than rumoured.
I am a little new to rangies as well, but to stroke a 3.5 costs a lot, you would need a crank with more offset on the crankpins.
My first 88 RR developed problems, I didnt find the fault until the counterweights in the dizzy cut the top off the body, fitted another dizzy and has been going well ever since.
The 88 flapper EFI are the most forgiving systems, I am using one on my 110 on a p76 engine soon. They will run with a stock ECU but a retune will improve it. RPI advise to use it rather than hotwire for even a 4.6 update.
For a general driver stick with a 3.5 if you want to keep economy, anything larger uses more fuel.
EFI is a great improvement over carbs, tend to be less trouble than rumoured.
Re building the motor wouldn't cost too much and I have been told that stroking it doesn't cost much more either but there are lots of other things that could go wrong that cost a lot, AFM for one. I think the EFI on the 3.5 isn't the best ever built either. Maybe find a 3.9 donor with all the EFI gear etc.
My advice would be to find a mate with an excavator to dig a big big hole and bury it.
Shane
My advice would be to find a mate with an excavator to dig a big big hole and bury it.
Shane
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Stroking a 3.5 would cost quite a bit. The kit is usually around 3K.
AFAIK there are none available now.
These engines are not cheap to rebuild properly, as the rocker gear generally needs replacing, plus cam, chains etc etc, although bores are usually good, piston lands also wear.
I suggest that you buy a second hand 3.9 from someone like Triumph Rover Spares.
The 3.5 injection should just about run it, but remember that the bits are very old now.
IMHO, the ideal is buy a 3.9 complete with injection,wiring and ECU. You would have to rig up a VSS ( vehicle speed sensor) but otherwise it is generally plug and play.
Regards Philip A
AFAIK there are none available now.
These engines are not cheap to rebuild properly, as the rocker gear generally needs replacing, plus cam, chains etc etc, although bores are usually good, piston lands also wear.
I suggest that you buy a second hand 3.9 from someone like Triumph Rover Spares.
The 3.5 injection should just about run it, but remember that the bits are very old now.
IMHO, the ideal is buy a 3.9 complete with injection,wiring and ECU. You would have to rig up a VSS ( vehicle speed sensor) but otherwise it is generally plug and play.
Regards Philip A
I think most likely none are available due to the slowly falling cost of 3.9/4.0 motors. Why bother building a stroker when you can buy a 4.0 or occasionally even a 4.6 for similar cost, and (generally speaking) have a more reliable setup.Stroking a 3.5 would cost quite a bit. The kit is usually around 3K.
AFAIK there are none available now.
3.5 flapper injection will run a 4.0 quite happily with a 3 bar fuel reg, up to about 5,000rpm, and will also run a 4.6 well enough to get around (sluggish down low, due to being too rich for good running in the midrange, then starts running out of fuel heading towards 4,500rpm).The 3.5 injection should just about run it, but remember that the bits are very old now.
IMHO, the ideal is buy a 3.9 complete with injection,wiring and ECU. You would have to rig up a VSS ( vehicle speed sensor) but otherwise it is generally plug and play.
Why would you need a VSS for a 3.9 injection? I've never heard this before?
84 Rangie, 3 inch spring lift, 2 inch body, Megasquirted 4.6, R380, rear Maxi, 34x11.5 JT2s. Simex FM installed.
All 3.9 have VSS and an electronic speedo.
1 It increases idle speed as you stop to stop the clunk into ZF first by adding a step to the stepper motor in addition to the steps added for aircon load or electrical load. It would probably reduce stalling coming to a stop.
2 The VSS controls injector cutoff. In a 3.9 the injectors are cut off on low TPS (overrun) AND RPM above 1500RPM AND VSS signal.
3 The 14 CUX would probably run OK without it but you may have stalling problems and it would throw error codes all the time.
A couple of other things that would be added with a 14CUX are a wire to the ECU to sense aircon on to activate the stepper . I think the 14CUX actually controls the aircon clutch and steps up a moment before, but I am not certain of this.
Regards Philip A
1 It increases idle speed as you stop to stop the clunk into ZF first by adding a step to the stepper motor in addition to the steps added for aircon load or electrical load. It would probably reduce stalling coming to a stop.
2 The VSS controls injector cutoff. In a 3.9 the injectors are cut off on low TPS (overrun) AND RPM above 1500RPM AND VSS signal.
3 The 14 CUX would probably run OK without it but you may have stalling problems and it would throw error codes all the time.
A couple of other things that would be added with a 14CUX are a wire to the ECU to sense aircon on to activate the stepper . I think the 14CUX actually controls the aircon clutch and steps up a moment before, but I am not certain of this.
Regards Philip A
4.4's are getting a bit long in the tooth now, last ones made are over 30 years old so unless you get a good one its pointless, manifold spacers are about $280 last time i looked and you will need an aftermarket ecu to run the injection. 3.9 out of a disco would be best option.troy_xlr8 wrote:mate,
3k for a stroker is abit $$$, if i was you id shove in a 4.4ltr leyland engine, my one has it in it and goes good. i dunno how you would go with the EFI though
Saddle up tonto, its the not so loanrangie! . 98 TDI DISCO lightly modded with more to come.
RPI have rising rate regs, do these cure that problem? I have also heard of drilling a hole in the flap, I guess this allows some air through to help cure the richness? I am wanting to use one of my flapper syatems on my 4.6 in the 110.RangingRover wrote:
3.5 flapper injection will run a 4.0 quite happily with a 3 bar fuel reg, up to about 5,000rpm, and will also run a 4.6 well enough to get around (sluggish down low, due to being too rich for good running in the midrange, then starts running out of fuel heading towards 4,500rpm).
I haven't messed around with the rising rate regs, or improving the flapper system, as I just junked the stock ecu for a Megasquirt anyway. The big problem is that the fuel curve seems all wrong (or was on my motor anyway), and once the AFM was adjusted to give best settings while about 2,500/3,000 rpm, it was rich low down and lean up high. A rising rate reg may help, I thought they were normally used in turbo situations, but may work for this case.RPI have rising rate regs, do these cure that problem? I have also heard of drilling a hole in the flap, I guess this allows some air through to help cure the richness? I am wanting to use one of my flapper syatems on my 4.6 in the 110.
Drilling a hole in the flap will mean the AFM vane is moved less by the air passing through (it was designed for the required air flow of a 3.5, not a 4.6)
Realistically though, if you have soldering skill, the cheapest way to make the 3.5 injection perform perfectly is to throw a megasquirt on, and clamp the fuel reg up a bit in a vise to make it run at 3 bar. This allows you to chuck the AFM (which has a TINY hole through the guts of it anyway), along with cold start injectors etc.
Not an option for everyone though, the DIY spirit has to be pretty strong.
84 Rangie, 3 inch spring lift, 2 inch body, Megasquirted 4.6, R380, rear Maxi, 34x11.5 JT2s. Simex FM installed.
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