hey guys i did a search but i am not sure what to get. i need to ditch my locked clutch fan asap
i was looking at these cheapos on ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FAN-16-2 ... 0204807256
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electric fan recomendation?
Moderator: Tiny
Now you have got me started.....
Feroza's are very temperature sensitive IMO, you need a BIG thermofan to keep them cool - especially if your doing lots of low speed off road stuff.
I machined the old viscous hub off the front of the water pump to give me enough room - or it looked crappy, I can't quite remember why, so I think that's something you will need to look into.
Whatever you fit needs to be good quality as its going to do a lot of work - you just can't have too much cooling fan
There's also a lot of difference in fan construction push vs pull, straight vs curved blades, airflow vs motor life. Its just not a straightforward selection.
However your in luck - about the best aftermarket thermos' around are made by SPAL in the USA. Full data sheets, push / pull/ straight / curved you name it - they make it. They are not cheap but this is an area you need to get right. Their website is worth checking out.
I have been trying to get one for around three months now for my roza but they don't sell to the public outside the USA and the local dealers here don't want to help " nah mate there all the same - never heard of a push fan - it'll be fine" yeah right.....
So... go for airflow, size, lifespan and quality - cut corners and you WILL BE SORRY.
[/rant]
Feroza's are very temperature sensitive IMO, you need a BIG thermofan to keep them cool - especially if your doing lots of low speed off road stuff.
I machined the old viscous hub off the front of the water pump to give me enough room - or it looked crappy, I can't quite remember why, so I think that's something you will need to look into.
Whatever you fit needs to be good quality as its going to do a lot of work - you just can't have too much cooling fan
There's also a lot of difference in fan construction push vs pull, straight vs curved blades, airflow vs motor life. Its just not a straightforward selection.
However your in luck - about the best aftermarket thermos' around are made by SPAL in the USA. Full data sheets, push / pull/ straight / curved you name it - they make it. They are not cheap but this is an area you need to get right. Their website is worth checking out.
I have been trying to get one for around three months now for my roza but they don't sell to the public outside the USA and the local dealers here don't want to help " nah mate there all the same - never heard of a push fan - it'll be fine" yeah right.....
So... go for airflow, size, lifespan and quality - cut corners and you WILL BE SORRY.
[/rant]
( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
yep yep i hear ya. i did look at those SPAL fans on summit.
you machined the viscous hub? to make room for an electric?
mine just unbolts.
i got my factory air box eliminated and next up it the clutch fan. with all the negetive response in the flywheel thead about getting an electic fan i figured there might be a part number already in use and proven.
if you want a spal fan i can ship one to you.
you machined the viscous hub? to make room for an electric?
mine just unbolts.
i got my factory air box eliminated and next up it the clutch fan. with all the negetive response in the flywheel thead about getting an electic fan i figured there might be a part number already in use and proven.
if you want a spal fan i can ship one to you.
here a decent deal on a spal fan
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/16-SPAL- ... enameZWDVW
i am also curious about the appluase thermo switches i see mentioned in some of the old threads
and what are your thoughts pusher or puller?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/16-SPAL- ... enameZWDVW
i am also curious about the appluase thermo switches i see mentioned in some of the old threads
and what are your thoughts pusher or puller?
From memory ( its was more than a week ago so its a bit hazy 
) I wasn't happy with the idea of the water pump pulley simply being bolted to the pump hub - pretty dumb as that's exactly what I have now done when I "re-engineered" the pulleys and belts. Its all coming back now.
As for help with the SPAL fan will sort out the part number I need and PM you - much appreciated.
Another small issue I covered in a previous thread is that of "fast idle" when the thermo kicks in - you may want to read that as well otherwise a big thermo can cause stalling. If you can't get the idle up valve and control solenoid, I can post you the bits as I have spares - somewhere....
) I wasn't happy with the idea of the water pump pulley simply being bolted to the pump hub - pretty dumb as that's exactly what I have now done when I "re-engineered" the pulleys and belts. Its all coming back now.As for help with the SPAL fan will sort out the part number I need and PM you - much appreciated.
Another small issue I covered in a previous thread is that of "fast idle" when the thermo kicks in - you may want to read that as well otherwise a big thermo can cause stalling. If you can't get the idle up valve and control solenoid, I can post you the bits as I have spares - somewhere....
( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
No its the load from a big thermo switching on at idle that can cause a stall - especially when you have headlights etc on.
This valve is used on aicon equipped roza's and adds just enough extra air ( its adjustable ) that when the A/C systems on it maintains the idle speed.
Of course in this application its used to correct for the fan load not the A/C.
This valve is used on aicon equipped roza's and adds just enough extra air ( its adjustable ) that when the A/C systems on it maintains the idle speed.
Of course in this application its used to correct for the fan load not the A/C.
( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
OE fans are usually very well engineered and could be a excellent solution, the trouble is you don't really know what their spec's are.
They may be fine - or borderline it hard to tell till your crawling on a 45 Degree day - and it all goes horribly wrong.
As a mistake can get very costly, my preference is to go AS LARGE AS POSSIBLE. Still I usually overkill things - its a choice / risk you need to consider.
They may be fine - or borderline it hard to tell till your crawling on a 45 Degree day - and it all goes horribly wrong.
As a mistake can get very costly, my preference is to go AS LARGE AS POSSIBLE. Still I usually overkill things - its a choice / risk you need to consider.
( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
Use vPostMightyMouse wrote:
I have been trying to get one for around three months now for my roza but they don't sell to the public outside the USA
https://www.vpostasia.com/australia/index.html
[quote="4WD Stuff"]
I haven't quoted Grimbo because nobody takes him seriously :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: [/quote]
I haven't quoted Grimbo because nobody takes him seriously :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: [/quote]
Electric fan advice:
1. SEARCH - for my in depth conversion details
2. The pulley by itself is very flimsy, I hack sawed the flange off the hub and bolted it back on top of the pulley
3. The full viscous hub will not leave enough depth (although I think that depth depends on if you've got the updated front end or not?)
4. Don't forget to upgrade your electrical system as well- these fans can draw over 20 Amps current.
5. Use a fan with a shroud that covers most of the radiator.
6. if you haven't got A/C then you can fit a push fan in front of the radiator as well.
7. Feroza cooling systems suck at the best of times- badly designed.
8. Don't expect miracles..... especially if you've got A/C.
1. SEARCH - for my in depth conversion details
2. The pulley by itself is very flimsy, I hack sawed the flange off the hub and bolted it back on top of the pulley
3. The full viscous hub will not leave enough depth (although I think that depth depends on if you've got the updated front end or not?)
4. Don't forget to upgrade your electrical system as well- these fans can draw over 20 Amps current.
5. Use a fan with a shroud that covers most of the radiator.
6. if you haven't got A/C then you can fit a push fan in front of the radiator as well.
7. Feroza cooling systems suck at the best of times- badly designed.
8. Don't expect miracles..... especially if you've got A/C.
David
What murcod said...
If you buy a SPAL fan get the soft gasket that is an option. It seals the thermo to the radiator and also prevents damage to the core.
PS - i really hate those "tie thingies" that hold the fan to the core. I have seen to many damaged cores..... If you can make or buy proper mounting brackets - do it.
If you buy a SPAL fan get the soft gasket that is an option. It seals the thermo to the radiator and also prevents damage to the core.
PS - i really hate those "tie thingies" that hold the fan to the core. I have seen to many damaged cores..... If you can make or buy proper mounting brackets - do it.
( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
Yes, they rank right up there with those temp sensor probes that you shove under the coolant hose in my book! Don't use them if you want something reliable and built to last.MightyMouse wrote:PS - i really hate those "tie thingies" that hold the fan to the core. I have seen to many damaged cores..... If you can make or buy proper mounting brackets - do it.
David
those daviescraig thermo fans are really good..www.daviescraig.com.au
I started with a Davies Craig and binned it - overpriced IMHO. They come with those stupid attachments bits that trash the radiator and their thermoswitch is the type I was talking about above (that you shove into the coolant hose join.)They also don't have a shroud, trust me that makes a HUGE difference. Start by looking at wreckers on FWD cars with engine around 2000cc, take the old Feroza shorud with you (that fits around the viscous fan) so you can compare sizes of fans/ shrouds.
As I've posted elsewhere a Daewoo one worked well for me.
David
If you compare the best Davies Craig and SPAL make ( not the extreme SPAL as it sacrifices life for flow ) you will notice that there's next to no difference in flow ( taking current into account ) with zero pressure drop.
However once you look at the flow vs pressure curves the Davis Craig units flow falls off significantly faster then the SPAL units - a sign that the Davis Craig fan design isn't as good as the SPAL.
As pressure drops are the norm - this needs to be taken into account IMO.
However once you look at the flow vs pressure curves the Davis Craig units flow falls off significantly faster then the SPAL units - a sign that the Davis Craig fan design isn't as good as the SPAL.
As pressure drops are the norm - this needs to be taken into account IMO.
( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
maybe i wil come acroos a a/c equipped rocky. i think P.V. 's parts rig had a/cMightyMouse wrote:No its the load from a big thermo switching on at idle that can cause a stall - especially when you have headlights etc on.
This valve is used on aicon equipped roza's and adds just enough extra air ( its adjustable ) that when the A/C systems on it maintains the idle speed.
Of course in this application its used to correct for the fan load not the A/C.
I'm warning against the D/Craig fans if you get the big ones and go off-road.
I mounted one, exactly as per the diagram and the body flex when climbing rocks, caused the radiator to bend, which in turn stopped the fan blade and motor burn-out did occur in the fan.
With any fan, (Like this is an ICE brand), I highly recommend making a decent shroud and mount it to allow for flexing;
I mounted one, exactly as per the diagram and the body flex when climbing rocks, caused the radiator to bend, which in turn stopped the fan blade and motor burn-out did occur in the fan.
With any fan, (Like this is an ICE brand), I highly recommend making a decent shroud and mount it to allow for flexing;
I'm the sharpest tool in the shed!
Yep have a spare valve and control solenoid with plug and loom. Got one with a scrap engine - decided to keep it just in case - hid it so well I couldn't find it when I needed it - bought another and then ( you guessed it ) found the original. 
Now I have to go find it again
Now I have to go find it again
( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
MM - check this link if you want a Spal fan locally. http://www.tweakit.net/shop/index.php?m ... rers_id=54
Where did you find the flow specs on them?
Where did you find the flow specs on them?
David
Thanks Murcod will have a look.
PWR also sell but they only have a limited range and know &*^% all about them. A bit strange really I have generally been impressed with PRW stuff.
Here's the SAPL Website
PWR also sell but they only have a limited range and know &*^% all about them. A bit strange really I have generally been impressed with PRW stuff.
Here's the SAPL Website
( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
Wow.... I've been busy searching and now want their PWM controller and dual 11" fan assembly for the XL-7...... 
They're quite well priced on Ebay too (depending on freight?)
http://www.spal-usa.com/fans/automated/ ... s/2052.pdf
http://www.spal-usa.com/fans/automated/ ... PWMIns.pdf
The controller is a piece of art- can control two fans and has two preset temps. Uses pulse width modulation to control the fan speed on one fan with the second cutting in at full speed at the higher set point. Can be hooked up to factory coolant sensors as well.
I'm tempted to order.... because it will improve the xl-7 fuel economy Well that will be my excuse!
They're quite well priced on Ebay too (depending on freight?)http://www.spal-usa.com/fans/automated/ ... s/2052.pdf
http://www.spal-usa.com/fans/automated/ ... PWMIns.pdf
The controller is a piece of art- can control two fans and has two preset temps. Uses pulse width modulation to control the fan speed on one fan with the second cutting in at full speed at the higher set point. Can be hooked up to factory coolant sensors as well.
I'm tempted to order.... because it will improve the xl-7 fuel economy
Well that will be my excuse!David
Here you go: http://cgi.ebay.com/Spal-16-High-Perfor ... dZViewItemMightyMouse wrote:
Unfortunately the size that I want (16") are both pull fans and I need push.
David
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