Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
1HDT Radiator Viscous Fan Clutch, 80 Series Getting Hot
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
1HDT Radiator Viscous Fan Clutch, 80 Series Getting Hot
Hey All
Just got home from a week at Fraser Island, all was sweet except the Cruiser keeps getting Hot Hot!!!!!
first trip i have done in this truck, So didnt know of any problems. I was towing a jet-ski and had a fair bit of gear in the back. The first time it got hot was going up the gateway bridge in 3rd gear at around 2800rpm because i was stuck behind a truck. I wasnt making it work hard (as in wasnt slugging it up the bridge, she still had a heap of grunt under her belt) but got to the top of the bridge and it was just above 3/4 on the guage. It took for ever for her to return to normal running temp. Continued this on every big hill. Yet i could put my foot to the floor while over taking and the gauge wouldnt budge. Could not put the AC on without it going right up under the red, reguardless of terrain. On the beach if i made it work, she would heat up. Had to drive up through the soft stuff for a few Km's just prior to reaching indian head, and 3 times i had to stop to let it cool down. I stopped and set the hand throttle to 1400 rpm and took a good 10 mins, for the gauge to come back to half way.
Im going to get the radiator flushed but everyone is saying my fan clutch is stuffed. It is easy to turn whether the motor is hot or cold and does have a bit of play. So at this stage i beleive the fan is 1 factor letting the cooling system down. But in saying that is the fan really doing anything when on the highway?
Should i buy a genuine fan clutch? or are aftermarket ones just as good? Roughly what price am i looking at?
Any advice or oppinions would be appreciated
Cheers Troy
Just got home from a week at Fraser Island, all was sweet except the Cruiser keeps getting Hot Hot!!!!!
first trip i have done in this truck, So didnt know of any problems. I was towing a jet-ski and had a fair bit of gear in the back. The first time it got hot was going up the gateway bridge in 3rd gear at around 2800rpm because i was stuck behind a truck. I wasnt making it work hard (as in wasnt slugging it up the bridge, she still had a heap of grunt under her belt) but got to the top of the bridge and it was just above 3/4 on the guage. It took for ever for her to return to normal running temp. Continued this on every big hill. Yet i could put my foot to the floor while over taking and the gauge wouldnt budge. Could not put the AC on without it going right up under the red, reguardless of terrain. On the beach if i made it work, she would heat up. Had to drive up through the soft stuff for a few Km's just prior to reaching indian head, and 3 times i had to stop to let it cool down. I stopped and set the hand throttle to 1400 rpm and took a good 10 mins, for the gauge to come back to half way.
Im going to get the radiator flushed but everyone is saying my fan clutch is stuffed. It is easy to turn whether the motor is hot or cold and does have a bit of play. So at this stage i beleive the fan is 1 factor letting the cooling system down. But in saying that is the fan really doing anything when on the highway?
Should i buy a genuine fan clutch? or are aftermarket ones just as good? Roughly what price am i looking at?
Any advice or oppinions would be appreciated
Cheers Troy
GXL HDJ80 Cruiser - Lifted, Locked, 315's, 3" Zorst, Safari Intercooled, High Flowed Turbo, All the fruit. AMMS tuned coal shovel, Pushing 148rwhp... + heaps of the black sooty goodness...
Dont know if this is going to help but i have a car at work at the moment that overheats when you give it some on a long hill its a farm car so have removed radiator and blown out all grass seeds and replaced but still doing the same..
So was told to replace the themostat and also remove the viscous coupling and pull it apart and add some more fluid to it ($10 from Toyota) so will be doing that tomz at work and i will let ya know how it goes..
Also this crusiers fan has same symptoms as yours so might be something to look at cheaper than a new fan..
So was told to replace the themostat and also remove the viscous coupling and pull it apart and add some more fluid to it ($10 from Toyota) so will be doing that tomz at work and i will let ya know how it goes..
Also this crusiers fan has same symptoms as yours so might be something to look at cheaper than a new fan..
94 HJZ 80 GXL 4 Inch lift 35s. TJM Accessories Front to back
Yeah was going to replace the thermostat, as they are cheap as chips, I have thought about re-packing the oil, but i have noticed mine has a bit of play, the viscous moves on the hub a little. I figured if i replace the hub thats another thing i can cross off the list! Will be interesting to see what the radiator mob say about the core, as she lived at the gold coast for half her life, so i wonder if it will be just about shagged?BOGAN V8 wrote: So was told to replace the themostat and also remove the viscous coupling and pull it apart and add some more fluid to it ($10 from Toyota) so will be doing that tomz at work and i will let ya know how it goes..
Also this crusiers fan has same symptoms as yours so might be something to look at cheaper than a new fan..
GXL HDJ80 Cruiser - Lifted, Locked, 315's, 3" Zorst, Safari Intercooled, High Flowed Turbo, All the fruit. AMMS tuned coal shovel, Pushing 148rwhp... + heaps of the black sooty goodness...
They go on about hot Cruisers here
http://www.offroad80s.com/viewtopic.php?t=873
Whatever the problem is, you are best off getting a pyrometer or some gadget to measure the temps.
Shane
http://www.offroad80s.com/viewtopic.php?t=873
Whatever the problem is, you are best off getting a pyrometer or some gadget to measure the temps.
Shane
We sell SUSPENSION - PRICES on
https://www.suspensionstuff.com.au" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Free Freight 1300 048 991
FLEXY COILS - Superior Engineering - TIGERZ11 - Tough Dog - PROCOMP - Polyair - ETC
https://www.suspensionstuff.com.au" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Free Freight 1300 048 991
FLEXY COILS - Superior Engineering - TIGERZ11 - Tough Dog - PROCOMP - Polyair - ETC
There is some debate.vSAHARAx wrote:whats the quality difference between the Aftermarket and the Genuine Toyota clutches?
Toyota one is 3x the price.
I have tried both and neither cured my problem. I didn't find a significant difference between aftermarket and factory.
The NipponDenso (Toyota) one is possibly better quality.
It's the usual deal, you spend what you have to to try and track down the problem.
Paul
Lexus LX470 - hrrm Winter Tyres
Gone - Cruiser HZJ105 Turbo'd Locked & Lifted
Gone - 3L Surf
Gone - Cruiser HZJ105 Turbo'd Locked & Lifted
Gone - 3L Surf
As mentioned above, there is no need to replace the clutch fan unless its cracked etc.
Just remove it from the vehicle and undo the screws holding it together.
Remove existing oil and replace with now oil purchased from your local toyota dealership, its in a small plastic packet and costs about $10.
As for your overheating it could be a multitude of things including...
Blocked internal cores restricting flow - this requires professional cleaning.
Bung thermostat - easy fix
Bung waterpump (most often the bearing starts to go ) - easy fix.
Not the correct ratio of anti freeze / boil - easy fix
I personally like to have my cooling system working 100% and recently had the whole lot replaced - rad 3yr wnty (as opposed to toyota 1 yr), cap, pump, thermostat new fluid in clutch and full system flush for $1400. Cheap insurance when im in the middle of nowhere and sound piece of mind over all.
Just gotta fit a quality temp gauge now as the factory unit has a massive flat spot in it to stop whide spread panic for those people who dont know correct opperating temp ranges. Only problem is by the time it has moved towards the red further damage is not too far away if not seen soon enough and rectified.
Just remove it from the vehicle and undo the screws holding it together.
Remove existing oil and replace with now oil purchased from your local toyota dealership, its in a small plastic packet and costs about $10.
As for your overheating it could be a multitude of things including...
Blocked internal cores restricting flow - this requires professional cleaning.
Bung thermostat - easy fix
Bung waterpump (most often the bearing starts to go ) - easy fix.
Not the correct ratio of anti freeze / boil - easy fix
I personally like to have my cooling system working 100% and recently had the whole lot replaced - rad 3yr wnty (as opposed to toyota 1 yr), cap, pump, thermostat new fluid in clutch and full system flush for $1400. Cheap insurance when im in the middle of nowhere and sound piece of mind over all.
Just gotta fit a quality temp gauge now as the factory unit has a massive flat spot in it to stop whide spread panic for those people who dont know correct opperating temp ranges. Only problem is by the time it has moved towards the red further damage is not too far away if not seen soon enough and rectified.
IF IT MOVES, SHOOT IT
IF IT DOESNT, CUT IT DOWN
IF ITS GREEN, PISS ON IT
IF IT DOESNT, CUT IT DOWN
IF ITS GREEN, PISS ON IT
how exactly do those clutches work, im going to re-oil it and see what happens, going to change the thermostat and get the radiator cleaned and checked, im one for doing it right the first time for peice of mind.
GXL HDJ80 Cruiser - Lifted, Locked, 315's, 3" Zorst, Safari Intercooled, High Flowed Turbo, All the fruit. AMMS tuned coal shovel, Pushing 148rwhp... + heaps of the black sooty goodness...
The oil is silicon fluid, it "couples" the power through. There are several chambers in it with a valve. They rely on the centrifugal force to work, so you can't bench test them with a drill - I tried.vSAHARAx wrote:how exactly do those clutches work, im going to re-oil it and see what happens, going to change the thermostat and get the radiator cleaned and checked, im one for doing it right the first time for peice of mind.
There is a bimetal spring on the front. As it heats, it rotates, turning a valve plate inside. Fluid is allowed to circulate to the coupling section, presto - it engages. When the valve closes the fluid is gradually pumped back to the centre and it uncouples.
The theory is simple. The actual fluid flow hurt my head and I gave up.
Paul
Lexus LX470 - hrrm Winter Tyres
Gone - Cruiser HZJ105 Turbo'd Locked & Lifted
Gone - 3L Surf
Gone - Cruiser HZJ105 Turbo'd Locked & Lifted
Gone - 3L Surf
Well we fixed the one at work today just added 2 tubes of the silicone to the viscous couple and replaced the themostat and hey presto no more getting hot..
Didnt remove any of the old fluid form the coupling just added 2 tubes and it now works...
Didnt remove any of the old fluid form the coupling just added 2 tubes and it now works...
94 HJZ 80 GXL 4 Inch lift 35s. TJM Accessories Front to back
I just replaced the clutch fan on my Troopy with a Borg Warner unit off ebay, $119.90 delivered compared with $438.00 from Toyota. The ebay one has cured my once only overheating problem, so for me it was worth the cost of getting a new one and not having to worry about it for a couple of hundred thousand ks...
93 1HZ Troopy Double Locked, Lifted and Gassed with NO Benefits by D-GAS
D-GAS= Dont - Give A Shit
D-GAS= Dont - Give A Shit
Just been down this road myself. I firstly added 1.5 tubes of silicon oil to the existing oil but found that the fan clutch locked up too early and didnt unlock till the car was stopped for a while.
So I drained the oil overnight (its thich as and slow to drain) then added 1.5 bottles of oil as per my mate at Toyota's recomendation and it works fine now. Locks when it should and unlocks too.
Alec.
I also replaced the coolant and thermostat.
So I drained the oil overnight (its thich as and slow to drain) then added 1.5 bottles of oil as per my mate at Toyota's recomendation and it works fine now. Locks when it should and unlocks too.
Alec.
I also replaced the coolant and thermostat.
GO the 80...The mods have started :-)
my Bundy used to get hot when pulling up hills at any speed, then got progressively worse until the thermostat locked shut, so replaced that and was still getting hot when working hard, gauge on 120 degrees celcius. opened the bonnet and sopped the fan with a stick, undid the fan jammed a sheet of rubber in it bolted it back up, now 100% locked up and running sweet!. no more problems from that puppy. she only revs to about 4k so you cant even hear the fan, only problem will be when revving in water but ill cross that bridge when i come to it.
new fans are about 140 from ebay/bursons.
new fans are about 140 from ebay/bursons.
[quote="75 cruser"]we want more donkey[/quote]
Posts: 3725
Joined: Wed Jun 30, 2004 1:45 pm
Joined: Wed Jun 30, 2004 1:45 pm
Location: Blue Mountains, or on a rig somewhere in bumf*ck idaho
yeah some good advice on here and bad advice. Having had a 75x that had over heating problems i've gone through pretty much everything on a toyota's cooling system and know it backwards. Start with the cheap and easy stuff first
1. change fluid - $20-$30
2. Clean radiator fins AND air con fins thoroughly (you should be able to easily see through them) - Free
3. Thermostat - $20 bucks
4. Re oil fan clutch - $20 bucks
5. System pressure test and rad cap test - free if you ask nicely and a tenner for a rad cap
if these don't work then next to try is
5. have the rad core professionally rodded and cleaned Make sure you fit an inline filter to the inlet of the radiator hose when you refit and CHECK IT REGULARLY - $60-70 if you take out and give it to them saving the labour cost of removal and refit.
6. Test for compression gasses and bubbles in coolant (head gasket/head damage test) - free if you ask nicely or a tenner
7. Pump - 150 - 200 bucks if you remove and refit yourself. (make sure you learn how to reset timing for christ's sake)
After all of this if it still has drama's then i don't know. remember that no diesel likes to labour with full throttle as unburnt diesel will bring up your egts and over heat the motor in no time flat. This includes towing, sand work, and hills. It could just be driving style.
1. change fluid - $20-$30
2. Clean radiator fins AND air con fins thoroughly (you should be able to easily see through them) - Free
3. Thermostat - $20 bucks
4. Re oil fan clutch - $20 bucks
5. System pressure test and rad cap test - free if you ask nicely and a tenner for a rad cap
if these don't work then next to try is
5. have the rad core professionally rodded and cleaned Make sure you fit an inline filter to the inlet of the radiator hose when you refit and CHECK IT REGULARLY - $60-70 if you take out and give it to them saving the labour cost of removal and refit.
6. Test for compression gasses and bubbles in coolant (head gasket/head damage test) - free if you ask nicely or a tenner
7. Pump - 150 - 200 bucks if you remove and refit yourself. (make sure you learn how to reset timing for christ's sake)
After all of this if it still has drama's then i don't know. remember that no diesel likes to labour with full throttle as unburnt diesel will bring up your egts and over heat the motor in no time flat. This includes towing, sand work, and hills. It could just be driving style.
http://www.populationparty.org.au/
I find the last statement interesting.rockcrawler31 wrote:
After all of this if it still has drama's then i don't know. remember that no diesel likes to labour with full throttle as unburnt diesel will bring up your egts and over heat the motor in no time flat. This includes towing, sand work, and hills. It could just be driving style.
So are you saying I shouldn't be able to hold 3/4 throttle and 680EGT's sustained going up the toowoomba range with the trailer?
Cause I can't, and I can't fix it (yet).
To my mind - flat throttle and 720EGT should still not overheat.
Paul
Lexus LX470 - hrrm Winter Tyres
Gone - Cruiser HZJ105 Turbo'd Locked & Lifted
Gone - 3L Surf
Gone - Cruiser HZJ105 Turbo'd Locked & Lifted
Gone - 3L Surf
The injection pump is a clever thing, it has a governor in it to ensure the engine only gets the fuel it's designed to.rockcrawler31 wrote: remember that no diesel likes to labour with full throttle as unburnt diesel will bring up your egts and over heat the motor in no time flat. This includes towing, sand work, and hills. It could just be driving style.
If it's working correctly, it will always overide your foot and ensure the engine remains happy.
Greg G
2000 HDJ105
2000 HDJ105
I agree totaly, but would like to add to this, with a diesel, it can be related to the tuning - too much fuel can cause heat issues.rockcrawler31 wrote:yeah some good advice on here and bad advice. Having had a 75x that had over heating problems i've gone through pretty much everything on a toyota's cooling system and know it backwards. Start with the cheap and easy stuff first
1. change fluid - $20-$30
2. Clean radiator fins AND air con fins thoroughly (you should be able to easily see through them) - Free
3. Thermostat - $20 bucks
4. Re oil fan clutch - $20 bucks
5. System pressure test and rad cap test - free if you ask nicely and a tenner for a rad cap
if these don't work then next to try is
5. have the rad core professionally rodded and cleaned Make sure you fit an inline filter to the inlet of the radiator hose when you refit and CHECK IT REGULARLY - $60-70 if you take out and give it to them saving the labour cost of removal and refit.
6. Test for compression gasses and bubbles in coolant (head gasket/head damage test) - free if you ask nicely or a tenner
7. Pump - 150 - 200 bucks if you remove and refit yourself. (make sure you learn how to reset timing for christ's sake)
After all of this if it still has drama's then i don't know. remember that no diesel likes to labour with full throttle as unburnt diesel will bring up your egts and over heat the motor in no time flat. This includes towing, sand work, and hills. It could just be driving style.
Also, For the benefit of others,
First thing I would do is re-oil your fan clutch - if it has done 150,000K or more, this is probably the issue... Good news is that Toyota fan clutches are one of the only ones that you can renew the oil on and the oil comes from the Toyota dealer.
I have done a writeup with photos on how to do this by clicking this link:
How to top up your FAN CLUTCH OIL
If the issue is still there, then next thing to do is have the radiator POWER Flushed by a professional - not just flushed with a hose.
You also need to know that OEM Temp gauges have a dead spot by design. By the time that needle starts moving they are already close to boiling point.
I installed a Digital Temp Gauge with an alarm for this reason - as the temps it gives are accurate and don't hide a potential problem - this way, I get pre warning before it's too late - and the alarm lets me know regardless of who is driving and not neccesarily looking at the temp gauge.
You can get more info on the issue and the solution here:
TM-2 Digital Temp Gauge with Audible Alarm
Hope this helps someone...
Frank
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 10 guests