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Fitting Disk Brake rear to GQ Patrol
Fitting Disk Brake rear to GQ Patrol
I have told there is a few modifications to do to the braking system in the GQ to get the rear Disk Brake Conversion to work properly.
Can anyone tell me what it is ?
I will be buying a new Master cylinder but what else do you need to do to make it work ?
Cheers Nick
Can anyone tell me what it is ?
I will be buying a new Master cylinder but what else do you need to do to make it work ?
Cheers Nick
[quote="Vulcanised"]more grunt than a row of drunk girls at a B&S ball!
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Is that the bit that has a spring attached to it and a little hydrolic cylinder ?
I am assuming that the drum and disk one is different ?
Sorry for being a bit of a noob about it but don't want to stuff up the brakes trying to do it.
Thanks for the help
Nick
I am assuming that the drum and disk one is different ?
Sorry for being a bit of a noob about it but don't want to stuff up the brakes trying to do it.
Thanks for the help
Nick
[quote="Vulcanised"]more grunt than a row of drunk girls at a B&S ball!
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[/quote]
perportioning valves are the same as far as i know. drum rear have a smaller master that is all. I do not run the perpotioning valve as when 4 wheeling if doin steep down hills it reduces rear braking.
The valve has a bypass circuit that re-routes the fluid to the front, the perportioning part works from the leaver setting the valve position and also a ball floating when under brakes to adjust the valve position for more rear bias.
I priced new ones 4 years ago GU $580 GQ $730, I was told at a brake shop they are not successfully rebuildable.
The GU has the bolt holes tapped into the valve n GQ has through holes n tapped chassis.
The valve has a bypass circuit that re-routes the fluid to the front, the perportioning part works from the leaver setting the valve position and also a ball floating when under brakes to adjust the valve position for more rear bias.
I priced new ones 4 years ago GU $580 GQ $730, I was told at a brake shop they are not successfully rebuildable.
The GU has the bolt holes tapped into the valve n GQ has through holes n tapped chassis.
When you removed the bias valve did you just disconnect the whole line back to the front ?
I like the idea of getting better braking on the rear for 4wding.
Thanks for the help nastytroll, I appreciate it.
Cheers Nick
I like the idea of getting better braking on the rear for 4wding.
Thanks for the help nastytroll, I appreciate it.
Cheers Nick
Last edited by CWBYUP on Thu Jan 24, 2008 8:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.
[quote="Vulcanised"]more grunt than a row of drunk girls at a B&S ball!
[/quote]
[/quote]
Yep, thats what i did and the brakes are 100% better, i converted my ute to a disk rear end, kept the standard master cylinder and would the proportioning valve all the way in.
If you haven't already bought the master cylinder the try it and see first, the only difference is the disc master cylinder pushes more fluid to the rear.
Cheers
Chris
If you haven't already bought the master cylinder the try it and see first, the only difference is the disc master cylinder pushes more fluid to the rear.
Cheers
Chris
GQ leafy ute - TD42, 2" lift, parabolics up-front, dove tail tray and 37" IROKs
Thanks again champ.nastytroll wrote:I used Y61 rear end, have also used Y60 rears. Standard patrol disks just slide over the studs so are easy to use for conversions on drum rear n just make your own caliper braket to suit the calipers you use.
I would recomend changing the master, the extra difference is worth it.
Owe you a beer
[quote="Vulcanised"]more grunt than a row of drunk girls at a B&S ball!
[/quote]
[/quote]
Is there only one screw that can be screwed in?gorilla wrote:Yep, thats what i did and the brakes are 100% better, i converted my ute to a disk rear end, kept the standard master cylinder and would the proportioning valve all the way in.
If you haven't already bought the master cylinder the try it and see first, the only difference is the disc master cylinder pushes more fluid to the rear.
Cheers
Chris
I wouldn't mind trying this before i fit my new master next week.
www.mudrhino.com.au
Yes, it is a bolt that goes through the lever arm and into the body of the proportioning valve, winding it all the way holds the lever across, giving the rear brakes as much fluid as possible, and it can be undone if you even need to go over the pits.dwaynes wrote:Is there only one screw that can be screwed in?gorilla wrote:Yep, thats what i did and the brakes are 100% better, i converted my ute to a disk rear end, kept the standard master cylinder and would the proportioning valve all the way in.
If you haven't already bought the master cylinder the try it and see first, the only difference is the disc master cylinder pushes more fluid to the rear.
Cheers
Chris
I wouldn't mind trying this before i fit my new master next week.
GQ leafy ute - TD42, 2" lift, parabolics up-front, dove tail tray and 37" IROKs
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