80 series info

[Paul Smith]

whanting to buy a 80 series. trying to find some info, looking at spending $20,000. what is the best model and year. I was wondering if they have auto locking hubs, I have read some people put manual hubs in, was wondering why. what is the life expectancy of a 4.2ltr diesel. is there any common faults they have.

[dogbreath_48]

whanting to buy a 80 series. trying to find some info, looking at spending $20,000. what is the best model and year. I was wondering if they have auto locking hubs, I have read some people put manual hubs in, was wondering why. what is the life expectancy of a 4.2ltr diesel. is there any common faults they have.

After 1993 they had better brakes and the better petrol engine. They are full time 4wd so don't run freewheeling hubs (except for the commercial STD models i think?) - some people convert to part time 4wd to cut down on driveline losses, reduce fuel consumption and driveline shudder caused by large suspension lifts.
4.2L diesel (the 1HZ) could last over 500000km if taken care of - but will cost $6000+ to rebuild if/when it does die. 4.5L petrols are a good engine but thirsty (18L/100km is average?).
My pick of the bunch would be a late model with the multi-valve turbo diesel (1HD-FT?) - and whack new big end bearings in it (see below - thanks scott )

-Stu

[scottmcguinness172]

ya can buy a modded one for 20K mate ya just gotta find the right one 1hz with aftermarket turbos are good cause the 1hz are a good engine and will last over 500 000ks my uncles 1hz has done 650 000ks and all be had done has serviced the injectors and injector pump and timing belts thats it never had the lid off it and it runs sweet i recomend to stay away from the 1hdt as they had big end problems unless you can find one that has been rebuilt and has recitps to prove it my 1hdt blew up and it cost me 3000K to rebuild us doing all the work with a new clutch it was cheap cause it didnt hurt the bores but a 2nd hand reground crank is worth around $1000 but ya cant go wrong with a 1hz my 2c worth

[Simo63]

i recomend to stay away from the 1hdt as they had big end problems unless you can find one that has been rebuilt and has recitps to prove it my 1hdt blew up and it cost me 3000K to rebuild us doing all the work with a new clutch it was cheap cause it didnt hurt the bores but a 2nd hand reground crank is worth around $1000 but ya cant go wrong with a 1hz my 2c worth

Well that makes no sense at all Scott because the bottom ends are exaclty the same on a 1HZ and a 1HDT???? The problem with the 1HDT's is that becasue they are direct injection they produce a larger amount of torque than an equivalent 1HZ with a bolt on turbo and therefore the bottom end bearings suffer. They are the same bearing in both motors.

My personal choice (and I've owned all 3 diesel powere 80 series, 1HZ, 1HDT x 2 and 1HD-FT) would be to get a 1993/94 1HDT factory Turbo. Yes the bearings will need replacing every 200,000 kms but they are a simple job to do with the motor in the car. I've had mine done twice and both times the repair bill was under $200 including bearings and oil. Persoanlly I would stick away from teh multi-valve jobbies. Nothing really wrong with them but if you've ever pulled the rocker cover off and done the tappets (admittedly they are easier to do than the shims on the 1HDT) you will be shocked at how intricate the cylinder head, cams, rockers, sub rockers etc .. a lot of money tied up in the head and for not a lot of performance gain IMHO. A bit over engineered I believe.

Other things to consider of course when comaring a factory turbo to an aftermarket turbo Toyota is that the direct injection factory turbo 1HDT has a boost compensator, lower compression, a 1 inch larger clutch and a plethora of other factory mods so that it will perform better, use noticably less fuel and last longer (except for the aformentioned bearing issue) than a 1HZ with a bolt on turbo. No mod plates required either for Qld punters.

Mate you just can't beat factory fitted stuff.

[vSAHARAx]

Mate you just can't beat factory fitted stuff.

x2

1HDT + replace big ends + regular services etc + Well maintained cooling system, and they will go and go and............................Go!

[Suspension Stuff]

I recommend a 1HDT over a 1HZ because they are designed to take the extra fuel so they can take a bigger boost then the 1HZ's before over heating. Put in other words. If you boost them both the same the 1HDT can be driven harder before it over heats.

However I recommend the 1HD-FT over the 1HDT because they have 24 valves instead of 12 meaning more horsepower and less fuel usage. I think they are the 95-96 models. You may have to search a while before you find one because people rarely sell them, especially if you want an auto which is the best setup in my opinion.

Another thing to consider is the pumps. I had an early 1HDT and when I reconditioned the pump there were a few upgrades to get because the later pumps were improved because of known faults.

I am interested why simo63 preferred the 1HDT over the 1HDT-FT. I might be able to learn something.

The first day you purchase your Cruiser find someone who knows how to tune the pump well on a dyno and it will transform your Cruiser.

Shane

[cruiser sig]

i run a 95 with 1hd-ft and it is the ducks nuts,as you have gathered 1hdt motors had factory shit bearings and need replacing .my 1hdft goes better and is easier on diesel than 1hdt as well .if it has the 24valve motor it normally means it has the bigger brakes all round .the only downside is that it will only fit 16'' wheels (unless you grind the calipers) and over here(nz) 16'' tyres are heaps dearer and less to choose from than 15''.anybody who has driven a 1hdt and then a 1hdft will go back to the 1hdft everytime. thats my little rant cheers cruiser sig

[dow50r]

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll ... :IT&ih=003

This one has taken my eye, having owned a turbo 4.5 before, i can say for sure, it is a 3 tonne wrx....the 40th annaversary was the best one, with ABS and all the comforts std, the 97 being the last of them, was the best of em, not to mention the suspension has been upgraded, the Kaymar bar rear wheel carrier is there too
But you will need to fill the tanks with premium unleaded, and it will use 23l around town per 100 kms...thats why the 1hz is so good, cheap and dependable and 13l/100 around town.

[Paul Smith]

thanks for the info so far, I am after a diesel was also wondering what is the common fuel comsuption for these, is there much differece in turbo to non turbo. do they all come with duel tanks and if so how big are they.
has anyone on here put on the lpg system with the diesel.
what sort of diff is in the front lsd or open centre.

[diby_2000]

Ive got a stock standard 96 1HD-FT auto and get typically around 12-13L/100Kms at 110-120Kms/h and around 14L/100 in town.
2 tanks 90L main and 45L sub. (I think they all have the same fuel tanks.)
And all open LSD rear (I think) and open front diff centers.