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80 Series 1FZ-FE Overheating Problem

Tech Talk for Cruiser owners.

Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX

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Posts: 6
Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 6:03 pm
Location: Melbourne

80 Series 1FZ-FE Overheating Problem

Post by jg1986 »

Hi All!
Just wondering if sombody can try and help me solve this problem i have with my 4.5l 1FZ-FE 80 Series overheating?
Within about 20 minutes of driving around the suburbs the engine starts to go past normal running temp, and as soon as i accelerate a bit harder to go up a hil or something the gauge shoots up into the red and the coolant is boiling away.
I have replaced the radiator, fan clutch, Thermostat, and water pump with genuine Toyota items, but it hasn't helped.
12mths ago the top half of the engine was rebuilt, new head etc, so im wondering if there is a way that my mechanic stuffed something up when he did all that work to it.
I've spoken to Toyota and numerous cooling specialists, but left them scratching their heads.

If anyone has any thoughts or ideas as to what could be happening, please let me know.
Any help would be great Cheers!
John
Posts: 16934
Joined: Sun Oct 20, 2002 6:57 pm

Post by RUFF »

Have you had it tested for a blown headgaskit or cracked head/block?
Posts: 6
Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 6:03 pm
Location: Melbourne

Post by jg1986 »

I haven't checked it yet, i think i was just assuming that they would be ok, since both were replaced not that long ago.

I will check it though. Whats the best way to check if the are faulty, and why would that make the engine overheat so quickly?
Posts: 109
Joined: Sun Jan 07, 2007 7:01 pm
Location: woodford, QLD

Post by abauer01 »

take radiator cap off, fill it up with water if its empty or low, start the car and leave it run until it gets hot and thermostat opens, look in the top of the raidator if its all white and foaming head gasket is gone.
Posts: 677
Joined: Sun Feb 20, 2005 4:53 pm
Location: In them thar hills...

Post by Jeff80 »

Could just be an air lock in the cooling system somewhere.
You would hope its not if it has been to a rad place and toyota and they didnt diagnose it...
" Some days you are the bug; some days you are the wind screen"
Posts: 6
Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 6:03 pm
Location: Melbourne

Post by jg1986 »

How does an airlock occur? the system has been drained and cleaned about 3 time this year.
Posts: 15
Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2007 12:42 am
Location: Brisbane, Qld, Australia

Post by franku »

Did you resolve this problem?

If so, what was it?
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Post by vSAHARAx »

i would be fitting an aftermarket temp guage as well! the factory guages have a bloody big dead spot, and a few people i have talked to who own a 4.5 petrol say as soon as the temp guage has gone over the half way mark its blown a head gasket. Dont know if they were pulling my leg, but i do know the factory guage doesnt move off half way until around 115deg C
GXL HDJ80 Cruiser - Lifted, Locked, 315's, 3" Zorst, Safari Intercooled, High Flowed Turbo, All the fruit. AMMS tuned coal shovel, Pushing 148rwhp... + heaps of the black sooty goodness...
Posts: 59
Joined: Sun Sep 23, 2007 4:15 pm
Location: Strathpine Brisbane

Post by Paul Smith »

I have had a similar problem with a different car. the problem was that the torque wrench that I used to do the job the first time was stuffed, the head was not on tight enough, it took about 2 months before it started to play up the second time. I checked everything and then, a bloke I was talking to said when did you last have your torque wrench calibrated.
I comparied my wrench to an other and mine was out by about 40 nm.
replaced head gasket re-torqued head never had any other problems.
check with were you had it done, bet they have old crappy torque wrench.
just a thought.
Posts: 15
Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2007 12:42 am
Location: Brisbane, Qld, Australia

Post by franku »

vSAHARAx wrote:i would be fitting an aftermarket temp guage as well! the factory guages have a bloody big dead spot, and a few people i have talked to who own a 4.5 petrol say as soon as the temp guage has gone over the half way mark its blown a head gasket. Dont know if they were pulling my leg, but i do know the factory guage doesnt move off half way until around 115deg C
I actualy sell a digital temp gauge with a custom setable alarm for that exact reason which many people are installing on their LC 80's because of that exact problem described above.

The problem is your Toyota Temp Gauge has a huge dead spot by design. I believe this is the case with a lot of cars actualy.

The issue with our 80's (especialy petrol ones) is that they traditionaly run quite hot and as the Toyota Temp Gauge on our dashboards doesn't move until it is often too late and usualy at least the head gasket is blown or worse a warped head etc. etc.. On other forums, our 80's are accused of having a weak head gasket as a result of the asbestos being removed from them and as a result the NEW oem replacements from Toyota are NOW metal.

The factory gauge will sit in the middle and not move from 155 degrees F(70 degrees C) through to about no less than 230 degrees F(110 degrees C)

So once you notice it move a needle width above half way - your Head Gasket is likely gone and it is usualy too late to cool the engine down before warping a head.... As you know, if you turn off an engine that is hot - the temp will actualy go up!

By having a temp gauge(especialy on with a settable alarm) - you can take corrective action earlier and you can also do something to fix a potential problem if you notice your temps are sitting higher than usual on the freeway for example - an early indicator of a problem like a blockage or a FAN Clutch on it's way out etc.

So given that there is little safety net, and a lot of us are using our 80's for what they were designed for (slow moving low rev work) I decided to install a digital temp gauge so that I can actualy see the temp moving (especialy since I tow a 2.5T boat) and I found a product that was perfect. It's small, has a nice and loud settable alarm and was very easy to install - takes a matter of minutes.

Basicly it is a digital thermocouple which tells you the temp of what ever you connect the wire to(in my case, I put it under the bolt holding the thermostat in place) and you set an alarm on it for what ever temp you want in celcius.

It has another wire that if you wanted to, could be hooked up to say the oil low light in the dash or any alarm light on the dash and it will act as an audible alarm for that as well.

The whole unit is VERY EASY to install because you don't have to install extra sensors into radiator hoses etc. It's just a ring type connector on the end of the wire from the box which needs to be placed under a bolt where ever you want to measure the temp. ie. you could easily put it under a head bolt for instance. I wanted to know the temp off the thermostat - hence why I installed mine there....

I have since decided that the product is that good, that I would buy some into stock and sell them to other 80 owners (We also use them on our outboard motors as well)

$118 delivered anywhere in Australia which is still the lowest price for these anywhere - this is a very low cost insurance policy in my opinon that will give yourself a warning and some breathing space if your cooling system is on it's way out...

You can order them from http://www.fullwavemarine.com/tempgauge.html You can pay by Credit card via paypal or paypal direct.

From personal experience, I think this is one of the best safety gadget's we can install on our 80's given the apparently tempermental head gaskets and the fact that the factory temp guage has a dead spot that doesn't give you any warning until it's often too late....

Here is the blurb and some photos...

INEXPENSIVE ENGINE PROTECTION UNITS that will SAVE YOUR Car, Truck, Marine & Stationary Engine

Engine Protection Since 1982

Image

Image

Introducing the ENGINE WATCHDOG 'EASY FIT' electronic engine temperature sensor.

The 'EASY FIT' electronic temperature sensor can rapidly detect ALL ENGINE OVERHEATING caused by both COOLING SYSTEM or OIL SYSTEM FAILURES.

The sensor takes just seconds to fit under any convenient bolt that is near the heat source. By not breaking into the cooling system in any way you will not risk your engines warranty or longevity from faulty installation or electrolysis.

All Engine Watchdog models are supplied with the 'Easy Fit' engine temperature sensor.

Aftermarket Engine Temperature Gauge with a built in ((( Audible ))) Engine Overheating Alarm & Light.

Great value TEMPERATURE AND OIL protection for ALL Car, Truck & Marine Engines.

Engine Watchdog TM2 is an ideal aftermarket engine temperature gauge and audible overheating alarm, that will prevent premature and costly car engine replacement and engine rebuilds. The TM2 detects ALL car coolant system problems that are the causes of car engine overheating, including engine coolant leaks and heat build up from poor oil pressure. It will quickly warn you with a LED warning LIGHT and internal BUZZER if any abnormal engine overheating occurs long before it does damage.

The LED digital engine temperature gauge with its built in audible alarm mounts in the cab, while the 'Easy Fit' engine temperature sensor fits in seconds to the engine

Externally mounted, Very Loud Mini Sirens are available for noisy machinery, Siren must be ordered with the unit. Siren Price, plus $20 Aust.

TM2 comes complete with an installation kit and simple fitting and operational instructions. It suits 12 or 24 volt systems and is fully reverse polarity protected ( you won't blow it up).

To set the alarm, you simply read the highest car temperature on the display and then just set the alarm temperature a few degrees higher using the push button on the front panel. It simple and it works!

Wiring your TM2 to your existing OIL DASHBOARD WARNING LIGHT SENDER (not a oil gauge sensor), will make your oil light into an Audible Oil Pressure Warning Light . Should you lose engine oil pressure the buzzer will alarm. If you want this option and only have a gauge, you will need to fit an inexpensive car type oil pressure light sender to your engine.

Compact size ( less mounting tabs ) 80x30x60mm. ( 3.2" x 1.2" x 2.4" ) Standard lead length 4m ( 13ft ) or they may be ordered to size at no extra cost for boats and farm machinery. Max Temp 125C ( 255F )

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Here's the fitting instructions for anyone interested in how easy it is to install the sensor...

'EASY FIT'
TEMPERATURE SENSOR LOCATION

Mount the sensor in a convenient location where it will reflect the engine temperature correctly, or as near the heat source as possible. In this example we are monitoring the engine block temperature, so a tappet cover bolt has been chosen. To use the sensor as a engine cooling system monitor mount the sensor under a thermostat housing bolt.

The SENSOR HOLE size is 10mm ( 3/8")

Slip the heat sensor under the bolt and replace the bolt to its original position and tension.

IT'S THAT EASY! No possibility of car coolant leaks or electrolysis.

Secure the lead so there is no possibility it will be damaged, use the spiral wrap provided if required. If possible, avoid running the sensor lead right next to sparkplug leads, the coil or distributor.
Posts: 15
Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2007 12:42 am
Location: Brisbane, Qld, Australia

Post by franku »

Just for everyones benefit, I received this PM below:
Sic Lux wrote:Hey mate just wondering if i'd be able to pick them up as brissy is local and what it'd save in postage. I may have just cooked my 80 series partrialy due to this problem :cry:
Getting it back from near cruiser park
Image
Sic Lux, as per my pm, I don't have a shop front - but if you need it urgently, I give me a call on my number in the PM, I sent and I will see what I can do - you wont really save any money - the cost of an overnight express post is only $7 and my petrol in an 80 is MORE that that :(

Happy to help you out in a jam though...
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