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24v hid balast to 12v please help
Moderator: -Scott-
24v hid balast to 12v please help
i have just got a second hand ballast to suit my ralle 4000 preditor (thanks to some light figered so an so who decided to cut the cord then find they had no hope of actually removing the light) problem is that i've now dicovered that its a 24v ballast does anyone know if or how to convert it to 12v
any help or info would be greatly appreciated
cheers
any help or info would be greatly appreciated
cheers
Have you actually tried to fire them up on 12 volts??? Might be worth a go, given you have nothing to lose. May well be that the circuitry in them is optimised for 24 volts, but may allow a large range of voltages to drive it, possibly down to 12 volts.
George Carlin, an American Comedian said; "Think of how stupid the average person is, and realise that half of them are stupider than that".
Re: a
Big W (50-70 watt) about $50-70 each, or buy one of the larger ones (90 watt) for about $100.ashbilt wrote:oh yea so whats a lap top thingo your suggesting gonna cost me (ballpark figure be fine)
cheers
Assuming you are running 35 watt lamps....still cheaper than new ballasts.
George Carlin, an American Comedian said; "Think of how stupid the average person is, and realise that half of them are stupider than that".
the output of the ballast is high voltage, not sure exaclt what but thaught it was about 1KV1MadEngineer wrote:why??DAMKIA wrote:Won't work at all.1MadEngineer wrote:run the globes in series off 1 balast?? half the input voltage, half the load = same output. ??
the input of the ballast is 24volt.
Each bulb requires one ballast. (Unless of course your an electronics engineer and can design up your ballast to supply enough grunt for X number of bulbs.) Each bulb requires a startup voltage of around 22 to 23kv in order to ignite the arc that passes through the xenon gas in order to do its thang with the salts inside. Once the salts dissolve and the arc is stabilised, the ballasts fancy electronics within can somehow (?) detect this (internal resistance of the bulb perhaps?), and then drops the running voltage to around 80 to 90 volts which is what normal xenon flash bulb runs at.
Two bulbs in series on the one ballast wont ignite... certainly the ballast will have a crack at it, but theoretically it would require two ballasts in series as well to produce 45,000 volts to ignite the two bulbs in series. But even so, this wont work due to the frequencies and phases and fancy techy stuff involved with the initial pulse of doof doof voltage.
Running two bulbs in parallel on the one ballast would most likely work for the first, second and maybe third time that you turn them on. But would kill the ballast internal electronics very quickly since you'd be pulling in around 16 to 20 amps at the initial turn on, and the internals wouldn't take the extra strain required to produce the current drawn by the bulbs.
Bit Dizzo who used to sell Xtec kits were at one stage selling two bulb to one ballast kits. However these kits were designed for twin headlamp housings (Late cruiser 60 series, Cruiser 80 series, Subaru EA81's etc) and were designed so that only one bulb was on at one time. Ie, Low beam would have been the outside headlamp housing, and when you switched to high beam, lo-beam would switch off, the innner headlamp highbeam would ignite.
Saved from having four ballasts for the four bulbs.
Interestingly I read somewhere where the Hella HIDs (28 watts each) startup is only around 5000 volts, hence the life time of the Hella ballast and bulb is ten times that of standard HID stuff.
Never knew that.
Two bulbs in series on the one ballast wont ignite... certainly the ballast will have a crack at it, but theoretically it would require two ballasts in series as well to produce 45,000 volts to ignite the two bulbs in series. But even so, this wont work due to the frequencies and phases and fancy techy stuff involved with the initial pulse of doof doof voltage.
Running two bulbs in parallel on the one ballast would most likely work for the first, second and maybe third time that you turn them on. But would kill the ballast internal electronics very quickly since you'd be pulling in around 16 to 20 amps at the initial turn on, and the internals wouldn't take the extra strain required to produce the current drawn by the bulbs.
Bit Dizzo who used to sell Xtec kits were at one stage selling two bulb to one ballast kits. However these kits were designed for twin headlamp housings (Late cruiser 60 series, Cruiser 80 series, Subaru EA81's etc) and were designed so that only one bulb was on at one time. Ie, Low beam would have been the outside headlamp housing, and when you switched to high beam, lo-beam would switch off, the innner headlamp highbeam would ignite.
Saved from having four ballasts for the four bulbs.
Interestingly I read somewhere where the Hella HIDs (28 watts each) startup is only around 5000 volts, hence the life time of the Hella ballast and bulb is ten times that of standard HID stuff.
Never knew that.
Bushies: http://www.angelfire.com/on4/bushy5560/ http://www.angelfire.com/on4/bushy5561/
Lightforce HID conversion stuff: http://www.angelfire.com/on4/bushy5551/
Lightforce HID conversion stuff: http://www.angelfire.com/on4/bushy5551/
I sell a balast that will run 2 globes at the same time or you can just have one of the globe running at a time. the balast is about the size 132mmx76mmx34mm and it will run 2 35w globes all day and all night and come with a 18 month warrant
Steve
Steve
Last edited by on4tou on Tue Feb 05, 2008 6:04 pm, edited 1 time in total.
on4tou wrote:I sell a balast that will run 2 globes at the same time the balast is about the size 132mmx76mmx34mm and it will run 2 35w globes all day and all night and come with a 18 month warrant
Steve
Ok, they exist. I am wrong.
Bushies: http://www.angelfire.com/on4/bushy5560/ http://www.angelfire.com/on4/bushy5561/
Lightforce HID conversion stuff: http://www.angelfire.com/on4/bushy5551/
Lightforce HID conversion stuff: http://www.angelfire.com/on4/bushy5551/
i was asking a serious question, i cant remember but i thought the input voltage specs on some of these ran from 14-28vdc.bushy555 wrote:on4tou wrote:I sell a balast that will run 2 globes at the same time the balast is about the size 132mmx76mmx34mm and it will run 2 35w globes all day and all night and come with a 18 month warrant
Steve
Ok, they exist. I am wrong.
WWW.TEAMDGR.COM
WWW.SUPERIORENGINEERING.COM.AU
WWW.LOCKTUP4X4.COM.AU
WWW.SUPERIORENGINEERING.COM.AU
WWW.LOCKTUP4X4.COM.AU
I would expect it's more getting both to strike at the same time.
As ausoops explained, initially the ballast applies a high voltage to create the arc, but once the arc is struck (and current flows) the voltage drops back to something much lower (sort of like fluro tube ballasts, I suppose.)
If you wire two bulbs in series, once one arcs and attempts to draw current, will there be sufficient voltage left to strike the second bulb? If the second bulb doesn't strike, how can enough current flow to sustain the arc in the first bulb - because the second bulb won't have significant current through it.
There probably are ways around running two bulbs in series, but I doubt that the average "standard" ballast will do it. I would guess that on4tou's double ballast is designed to run the two bulbs in parallel - but I could be wrong.
As ausoops explained, initially the ballast applies a high voltage to create the arc, but once the arc is struck (and current flows) the voltage drops back to something much lower (sort of like fluro tube ballasts, I suppose.)
If you wire two bulbs in series, once one arcs and attempts to draw current, will there be sufficient voltage left to strike the second bulb? If the second bulb doesn't strike, how can enough current flow to sustain the arc in the first bulb - because the second bulb won't have significant current through it.
There probably are ways around running two bulbs in series, but I doubt that the average "standard" ballast will do it. I would guess that on4tou's double ballast is designed to run the two bulbs in parallel - but I could be wrong.
current wont flow until both builbs arc, the ballast will not sense the massive drop in resistance until both bulbs have arced.-Scott- wrote:I would expect it's more getting both to strike at the same time.
As ausoops explained, initially the ballast applies a high voltage to create the arc, but once the arc is struck (and current flows) the voltage drops back to something much lower (sort of like fluro tube ballasts, I suppose.)
If you wire two bulbs in series, once one arcs and attempts to draw current, will there be sufficient voltage left to strike the second bulb? If the second bulb doesn't strike, how can enough current flow to sustain the arc in the first bulb - because the second bulb won't have significant current through it.
There probably are ways around running two bulbs in series, but I doubt that the average "standard" ballast will do it. I would guess that on4tou's double ballast is designed to run the two bulbs in parallel - but I could be wrong.
Actually in series with 45 KV applied one will probably arc up long enough (ie effectivly "dead short") to dump 45 KV across the remaining one, thus shortening its life dramatically and somewhat spectacularly....Shadow wrote:current wont flow until both builbs arc, the ballast will not sense the massive drop in resistance until both bulbs have arced.-Scott- wrote:I would expect it's more getting both to strike at the same time.
As ausoops explained, initially the ballast applies a high voltage to create the arc, but once the arc is struck (and current flows) the voltage drops back to something much lower (sort of like fluro tube ballasts, I suppose.)
If you wire two bulbs in series, once one arcs and attempts to draw current, will there be sufficient voltage left to strike the second bulb? If the second bulb doesn't strike, how can enough current flow to sustain the arc in the first bulb - because the second bulb won't have significant current through it.
There probably are ways around running two bulbs in series, but I doubt that the average "standard" ballast will do it. I would guess that on4tou's double ballast is designed to run the two bulbs in parallel - but I could be wrong.
George Carlin, an American Comedian said; "Think of how stupid the average person is, and realise that half of them are stupider than that".
Doesn't it use a big arsed capacitor to arc the bulbs? Therefore the high voltage output would only be momentary, wouldn't it? So you'd be arcing both bulbs within a heartbeat, provided it could do both in one hit. Also would that mean parrallel would be better or series?
I could be wrong but I thought thats how it works. If it is right then how's it going to shorten the bulb life?
I could be wrong but I thought thats how it works. If it is right then how's it going to shorten the bulb life?
Well, sort of. There's a potential difference across the two of them combined, but it's difficult to say what voltage is across each bulb - the joint in the middle is "floating" somewhere in between.ausoops wrote:because if they are wired in series neither bulb will have a potential difference across it as the hid's are in effect an open circuit until the arc strikes.
Theoretically, if both bulbs are identical, they'll have identical capacitance, and each will have exactly half the voltage. In reality? Who knows? And if/when one bulb arcs?
Somebody must have tried this! Who wants to google it?
erm... you sure?-Scott- wrote: As ausoops explained, initially the ballast applies a high voltage
>Doesn't it use a big arsed capacitor to arc the bulbs?
>Therefore the high voltage output would only be momentary, wouldn't it
Not quite. There are no big caps within these metal halide ballasts. Fluro's yes, some 240v metal halides - yes. 12-36v automotive halides - no. Or at least nothing that you would consider 'big' with the fancified electronics.
The ballasts sends out high frequency high voltage pulsed DC to fire the ballasts, of which it can take anywhere between 0.01 to up to around two seconds before the bulbs does its initial arc, which then disolves the metal salts to create the stablised arc. Then it drops to the 85-90 odd volts with around the 2 to 5 amp current draw depending on the pressure of the gas, amount of metal salts within the bulb, and distance of the arc. (35 to 55 watt kits)
I could be wrong but.
>Somebody must have tried this!
I'd do it right now, except that all of my 4 spare bulbs are glued to a Blitz light.
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/phpBB2/vi ... p?t=131040
Will try it after I light the blitz up. And if it does ARC up with two bulbs in both parallel and or series, can measure the stablised voltage and current draw.
Would be interested to see how it goes...
Bushies: http://www.angelfire.com/on4/bushy5560/ http://www.angelfire.com/on4/bushy5561/
Lightforce HID conversion stuff: http://www.angelfire.com/on4/bushy5551/
Lightforce HID conversion stuff: http://www.angelfire.com/on4/bushy5551/
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