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How much power/torque can standard rangie bits take?
Moderator: Micka
How much power/torque can standard rangie bits take?
I'm looking at getting some more power to the ground in my rangie. I want to do all modifications properly, but I have no idea how much power any certain drive train items can take.
Information on parts (kW or Nm rating) or experience with putting power down would be great. I am considering engine conversions, gearbox and transfer case conversions etc... (land rover or other).
I currently run 3.5L V8 EFI, ZF 4sp, Viscous, all standard. Although satisfied at the moment with standard figures, I am looking in the vicinity of 200 kW / 350 Nm + in the near future.
Information on parts (kW or Nm rating) or experience with putting power down would be great. I am considering engine conversions, gearbox and transfer case conversions etc... (land rover or other).
I currently run 3.5L V8 EFI, ZF 4sp, Viscous, all standard. Although satisfied at the moment with standard figures, I am looking in the vicinity of 200 kW / 350 Nm + in the near future.
sorry i've left out some important information.
Its my weekend warrior and daily taxi, has a 2 inch suspension lift, runs standard size tires, but 31's when going bush, it weighs a bit over 2 ton, and i would prefer to leave the ratios alone as they have proven to be good so far. I give it a fair go off road, pushing it quite a bit
Im really just looking for suggestions, what works, what i can get away with, I just need an idea what i might be in for.
Example: if I stick a vs v8 efi motor in, what might break or will the componets be good, or will my cv's explode when i tromp the gas?
Its my weekend warrior and daily taxi, has a 2 inch suspension lift, runs standard size tires, but 31's when going bush, it weighs a bit over 2 ton, and i would prefer to leave the ratios alone as they have proven to be good so far. I give it a fair go off road, pushing it quite a bit
Im really just looking for suggestions, what works, what i can get away with, I just need an idea what i might be in for.
Example: if I stick a vs v8 efi motor in, what might break or will the componets be good, or will my cv's explode when i tromp the gas?
Best solution is if u use a larger V8 use the auto box thats usualy hangs off said V8 addapted to a LT230 transfer then you will need to upgrade the diffs and axles best option would be arb lockers and prbably either jack mac axles or imports from the us ...
This will work well tho the next thing that can and will break is your CWP u can upgrade these as well with ashcroft and theres a few others ...

This will work well tho the next thing that can and will break is your CWP u can upgrade these as well with ashcroft and theres a few others ...


Cheers
Chris
Questions $20ea Answers for said Questions $100ea
I can fix your F'ups for a fee .......
Chris
Questions $20ea Answers for said Questions $100ea
I can fix your F'ups for a fee .......
Swap the viscous for an LT230 or it will leave you stranded, ZF will handle a 5.7ltr holden/chev but the diffs will spit their guts. The RRC 4spd lt95 and any auto (zf / TF727) are strong and the lt230 are near bullet proof - either toy centres in your rover housings or complete LC80/ GQ diff swap are common conversions.
Saddle up tonto, its the not so loanrangie! . 98 TDI DISCO lightly modded with more to come.
just so you guys know, Barry Ward, (Mal Story of Maxidrive, long time work partner) has gone out on his own
he is trading under HI-Tough Engineering
he produces axles and drive flanges for landrovers and range rovers
made exactly the same way as maxidrive use to.
SAME MATERIALS,
SAME PROCESS
SAME HEAT TREATING
SAME FINISH
he will be supplying all the same retailers as before
would be great to see Barry supported as he was a long time and big part of maxidrive.
cheers, serg
he is trading under HI-Tough Engineering
he produces axles and drive flanges for landrovers and range rovers
made exactly the same way as maxidrive use to.
SAME MATERIALS,
SAME PROCESS
SAME HEAT TREATING
SAME FINISH
he will be supplying all the same retailers as before
would be great to see Barry supported as he was a long time and big part of maxidrive.
cheers, serg
nope : (
only axles and drive flanges
but still best rover axles available. in my opinion
what are jacmac made from en26?
ashcroft longfield and rovertracks are all 4340
Hi-Tough Engineering are made from hy-tuf which is similar to 4340 300m
but mal always thought it had a few slightly different characteristics that made it better than 300m
arbs are proven, and a good locker, so you can go this route and get axles and flanges from Barry
cheers, serg
only axles and drive flanges
but still best rover axles available. in my opinion
what are jacmac made from en26?
ashcroft longfield and rovertracks are all 4340
Hi-Tough Engineering are made from hy-tuf which is similar to 4340 300m
but mal always thought it had a few slightly different characteristics that made it better than 300m
arbs are proven, and a good locker, so you can go this route and get axles and flanges from Barry
cheers, serg
Well that's a saving grace, at least we can get the air lockers and have the MD axles, good combo and Barry should get plenty of buisness out of it.
Shame that he doesn't continue the old RC transfer gears, I left it too late. Guess I'll have to go back to a Lt95 next time around
Trav
Shame that he doesn't continue the old RC transfer gears, I left it too late. Guess I'll have to go back to a Lt95 next time around

Trav
Land Rover- The Collingwood of 4WD's!!!!
Shane at Land vehicle spares in NSW has told me that TC reduction gears are still available (will have to check on that)Aquarangie wrote:Well that's a saving grace, at least we can get the air lockers and have the MD axles, good combo and Barry should get plenty of buisness out of it.
Shame that he doesn't continue the old RC transfer gears, I left it too late. Guess I'll have to go back to a Lt95 next time around
Trav
As for locker, there's always Detroits for the rear, and I've heard good things about the true tracs also.
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