Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
Tips on drilling steel
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
Prado.
I wonder why I had no trouble with all the smaller steps up to 10mm with my cheap set of drill bits
Regarding the possibility of weakening the chassis, I'd put a lot more thought into it if I were drilling anywhere important, but I'm drilling right at the ends where it isn't supporting much so I'm pretty sure it's safe.
I wonder why I had no trouble with all the smaller steps up to 10mm with my cheap set of drill bits

Regarding the possibility of weakening the chassis, I'd put a lot more thought into it if I were drilling anywhere important, but I'm drilling right at the ends where it isn't supporting much so I'm pretty sure it's safe.
[quote="awill4x4 Just be glad your not doing this on stainless steel as you generally have to use reground carbide tipped masonry bits to get through an overheated drill hole in stainless.
Regards Andrew.[/quote]
Yeah theres nothin worse, you really gotta know what your doin with stainless. I would doubt very much if you weakened your chassis at all
Regards Andrew.[/quote]
Yeah theres nothin worse, you really gotta know what your doin with stainless. I would doubt very much if you weakened your chassis at all
You own a 4WD and you're doing an engine swap and you think throwing out drill bits is a waste of money?BlueSuzy wrote:Throwing out drill bits! Ah what a waste of money! Just re sharpen them. If you have a bench grinder makes it so much easier, Where abouts u situated? Send me a pm. I may be able to sharpen them for you.

I think drills are cheap and if I'm doing a new job I buy a new drill as part of getting things ready for the job. I've had a go at sharpening drills but I don't think it's very effective as a DIY job and drills can last a long time if they're not abused.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
drill bits cheap? if you buy good ones, there not cheap enough to just toss them out when the get a bit dull.Gwagensteve wrote:You own a 4WD and you're doing an engine swap and you think throwing out drill bits is a waste of money?BlueSuzy wrote:Throwing out drill bits! Ah what a waste of money! Just re sharpen them. If you have a bench grinder makes it so much easier, Where abouts u situated? Send me a pm. I may be able to sharpen them for you.
I think drills are cheap and if I'm doing a new job I buy a new drill as part of getting things ready for the job. I've had a go at sharpening drills but I don't think it's very effective as a DIY job and drills can last a long time if they're not abused.
Steve.
I keep my eyes on bunnings prices if I need new bits, they sell sets off cheap as chips occasionally. I always seem to wear out the same sizes though, so I buy common sizes in packs from engineers supplies
A bit of practice on the bench grinder you can touch up a drill bit in about 60 seconds and keep it sharp, that way they dont get so blunt it becomes a chore to sharpen them.
RN wrote:pussy is out, its the log for me... Thank you Jesus.
Ill be happy to take all your old drill bits off you then thanks.Gwagensteve wrote:You own a 4WD and you're doing an engine swap and you think throwing out drill bits is a waste of money?BlueSuzy wrote:Throwing out drill bits! Ah what a waste of money! Just re sharpen them. If you have a bench grinder makes it so much easier, Where abouts u situated? Send me a pm. I may be able to sharpen them for you.
I think drills are cheap and if I'm doing a new job I buy a new drill as part of getting things ready for the job. I've had a go at sharpening drills but I don't think it's very effective as a DIY job and drills can last a long time if they're not abused.
Steve.
just to be a bit more precise sueface speed is 318V/D. It does make a difference when talkin high speed machines.
314 x V (velocity of cutting tool ) / D (diameter of Tool or cercumference of rotating part )
5mm to 6mm for pilot hole unless its goin to be a big hole
cobolt stub drills are good all other cobolt are over rated in my opinion, better off sharpening standard HSS
Treforlex should not be used for machine tapping or cutting or drilling
Tap magik is great for tapping holes n drilling small holes 0.2mm to 2mm
Rocol is good but messy, make sure you clean all surfaces that come into contact with Rocol well or it will cause it to rust.
Soluble oil in good in a spray bottle for drilling holes
Artu drills are cheap drills with a braized in carbide insert good for drilling hard steel, I have drilled 71 rockwell dies with them, a file is 57 to 58 rockwell. It takes a Cubic Boron Nitrite (CBN, artificial diamond) grinding wheel to sharpen masonary drills properly to cut steel
If you want drills sharpened n dont know how, most saw n tool sharpeners will do it for you
314 x V (velocity of cutting tool ) / D (diameter of Tool or cercumference of rotating part )
5mm to 6mm for pilot hole unless its goin to be a big hole
cobolt stub drills are good all other cobolt are over rated in my opinion, better off sharpening standard HSS
Treforlex should not be used for machine tapping or cutting or drilling
Tap magik is great for tapping holes n drilling small holes 0.2mm to 2mm
Rocol is good but messy, make sure you clean all surfaces that come into contact with Rocol well or it will cause it to rust.
Soluble oil in good in a spray bottle for drilling holes
Artu drills are cheap drills with a braized in carbide insert good for drilling hard steel, I have drilled 71 rockwell dies with them, a file is 57 to 58 rockwell. It takes a Cubic Boron Nitrite (CBN, artificial diamond) grinding wheel to sharpen masonary drills properly to cut steel
If you want drills sharpened n dont know how, most saw n tool sharpeners will do it for you
The Bosch sharpeners that go on the end of your drill sharpen bits ok. Skip the cheap one's though.
Tradetools has a nice little 240v sharpener that will do it for you.
Personally, I love the double or triple cut bits liek a plit point, but have never found a way to do it myself.
Tradetools has a nice little 240v sharpener that will do it for you.
Personally, I love the double or triple cut bits liek a plit point, but have never found a way to do it myself.
Lexus LX470 - hrrm Winter Tyres
Gone - Cruiser HZJ105 Turbo'd Locked & Lifted
Gone - 3L Surf
Gone - Cruiser HZJ105 Turbo'd Locked & Lifted
Gone - 3L Surf
But a bench grinder does a lot more than just sharpen drill bits!me3@neuralfibre.com wrote:The Bosch sharpeners that go on the end of your drill sharpen bits ok. Skip the cheap one's though.
Tradetools has a nice little 240v sharpener that will do it for you.
Personally, I love the double or triple cut bits liek a plit point, but have never found a way to do it myself.
You can do double/triple cut bits on a bench grinder for large bits (e.g. 15+ mm or so)
_____________________________________________________________
RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
its called web releif, it can be done on 3mm + drills with a bench grinder but the wheel needs to have a sharp edge. In my opinion bench grinders are only used for sharpening tools.ISUZUROVER wrote:But a bench grinder does a lot more than just sharpen drill bits!me3@neuralfibre.com wrote:The Bosch sharpeners that go on the end of your drill sharpen bits ok. Skip the cheap one's though.
Tradetools has a nice little 240v sharpener that will do it for you.
Personally, I love the double or triple cut bits liek a plit point, but have never found a way to do it myself.
You can do double/triple cut bits on a bench grinder for large bits (e.g. 15+ mm or so)
The smallest drills I have sharpened by hand was 1.4mm using a surface grinder wheel, I was tapping the end of brazing rods with an 0ba tap.
It is casnogenic as a vapour, can be absorbed through nasal pasage n cause growth on frontal loabs.
It used to have written on tin "hand tapping only", I havent read one in a long time though. It does work well though
pickle past for stainless is another to watch out for, it is marked as corrosive but does not burn, it breakes down calcium in your bones as it get absorbed through skin, Hydroflori acid.
It used to have written on tin "hand tapping only", I havent read one in a long time though. It does work well though
pickle past for stainless is another to watch out for, it is marked as corrosive but does not burn, it breakes down calcium in your bones as it get absorbed through skin, Hydroflori acid.
I knew you were going to say this. Thats why i asked. This is no longer true they changed the make up of this product years ago. It is now safe to use as a drilling compound and tapping compound. Have used it for at least 5 years now for both.nastytroll wrote:It is casnogenic as a vapour, can be absorbed through nasal pasage n cause growth on frontal loabs.
It used to have written on tin "hand tapping only", I havent read one in a long time though. It does work well though
Same as most decent aluminium cleaners. I worked as a powdercoater for a few years and was in contact with a lot of Hydrophloric Acid. Im not looking forward to life when i get older.nastytroll wrote:pickle past for stainless is another to watch out for, it is marked as corrosive but does not burn, it breakes down calcium in your bones as it get absorbed through skin, Hydroflori acid.
wd40 is shit ( even for uses that it was designed for, use INOX INSTEAD)GRPABT1 wrote:You can use WD40 just to lube the drill bit but it wont work as good as trefolex or the like to aid in cutting.
but for drilling, use treoflex, its top stuff!
Jes
ATTACH BROKEN TOYOTA HERE--->
DUCATI <-----Worlds best warning label
DUCATI <-----Worlds best warning label
yeah i put my hand up for your old drill bits aswell.Gwagensteve wrote:You own a 4WD and you're doing an engine swap and you think throwing out drill bits is a waste of money?BlueSuzy wrote:Throwing out drill bits! Ah what a waste of money! Just re sharpen them. If you have a bench grinder makes it so much easier, Where abouts u situated? Send me a pm. I may be able to sharpen them for you.
I think drills are cheap and if I'm doing a new job I buy a new drill as part of getting things ready for the job. I've had a go at sharpening drills but I don't think it's very effective as a DIY job and drills can last a long time if they're not abused.
Steve.
its a waste of money throwing out a bit you can re-sharpen on a bench grinder in about 20 seconds flat!
JEs
ATTACH BROKEN TOYOTA HERE--->
DUCATI <-----Worlds best warning label
DUCATI <-----Worlds best warning label
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest