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Hilux Torque Rod Poll
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
Hilux Torque Rod Poll
Just doing a poll to see what other forum members reckon.
As poll states. Are they needed or not?
I don't reckon they are.
When you do high steer conversion the rod has to come off, So thats why i don't reckon they are need, but still curious.
Any comments welcome too.
Cheers
Greg
As poll states. Are they needed or not?
I don't reckon they are.
When you do high steer conversion the rod has to come off, So thats why i don't reckon they are need, but still curious.
Any comments welcome too.
Cheers
Greg
1988 Hilux, 4y, 2 inch Lift Superior Engineering, Custom Tray.
Tamworth Team Penning Association.
Tamworth Team Penning Association.
Re: Hilux Torque Rod Poll
Firstly do you understand why the Tourque rod is actually fitted?4be wrote: When you do high steer conversion the rod has to come off, So thats why i don't reckon they are need, but still curious.
Re: Hilux Torque Rod Poll
RUFF wrote:Firstly do you understand why the Tourque rod is actually fitted?4be wrote: When you do high steer conversion the rod has to come off, So thats why i don't reckon they are need, but still curious.
i dont!!!!
please tell
[quote="Barnsey"]
Bronwyn Bishop does it for me.[/quote]
Bronwyn Bishop does it for me.[/quote]
The std steering pushes foward and back the torque rod it there to help it if not fitted it'll tend to wrap the springs slightly and will find it'll chew bushes on the rh spring hanger because all the streering pressure is on that bush not shared by the torque rod. Never had one on mine and it chewed bushes and i could rase and lower it a bit through turning the steering left to right because of the angle the dragilink was running at, Now have Hi steer and it's sweet as. Another thing it's above the diff so it helps to eliminate springs wrap when under power in 4wd and braking an general
Last edited by Sic Lux on Tue Feb 12, 2008 9:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.
plenty of parts on the bench
and if you lift it 2" do you need an extended one?
My current one is stock and stuffed, just trying to work out whether its worth getting new bushes, or an adjustable one.
My current one is stock and stuffed, just trying to work out whether its worth getting new bushes, or an adjustable one.
2005 HDJ100 Manual, ARB bar, XD9000 winch, ARB rooftop tent + awning, Drawers, Engel, 2" OME lift, 285/75R16 KM2's, iCom, HID XGT's.
Re: Hilux Torque Rod Poll
Sort of.RUFF wrote:Firstly do you understand why the Tourque rod is actually fitted?4be wrote: When you do high steer conversion the rod has to come off, So thats why i don't reckon they are need, but still curious.
1988 Hilux, 4y, 2 inch Lift Superior Engineering, Custom Tray.
Tamworth Team Penning Association.
Tamworth Team Penning Association.
One reason for poor results after lifting a vehicle with higher set springs, is not loosening off the torque rod bolts on the chassis, and diff.
Failure to do so, and re tension at new ride height will cause the torque rod to pull down on the drivers side.
Its there to allow the movement up and down of the suspention, without adversly affecting the steering arm's arc of movement when the suspention moves.
Thus when you read of those doing lane changes once its removed, whats happening is the diff location relative to the steering arm moves, changes toe direction, and you lane change, fight the steering etc.
With 2" lift, just loosten it off, and retention it to specs at new ride height, just as you do with the spring pins and shackles etc.
If you go an adjustable torque rod, go with an adjustable steering rod as well, and adjust them the same amount from standard.
Trains
edited by the spelling nazis
Failure to do so, and re tension at new ride height will cause the torque rod to pull down on the drivers side.
Its there to allow the movement up and down of the suspention, without adversly affecting the steering arm's arc of movement when the suspention moves.
Thus when you read of those doing lane changes once its removed, whats happening is the diff location relative to the steering arm moves, changes toe direction, and you lane change, fight the steering etc.
With 2" lift, just loosten it off, and retention it to specs at new ride height, just as you do with the spring pins and shackles etc.
If you go an adjustable torque rod, go with an adjustable steering rod as well, and adjust them the same amount from standard.
Trains
edited by the spelling nazis
Save the Whales......Collect the whole set.
My Wife Can't Shear..............But You Should See Her Crutch !
My Wife Can't Shear..............But You Should See Her Crutch !
Re: Hilux Torque Rod Poll
Sic lux and Trains have both explained what its actually there for. A lot of people think its only there as a Traction bar to stop axle wrap in the front. It was never intended to stop this although it does help some.4be wrote:Sort of.RUFF wrote:Firstly do you understand why the Tourque rod is actually fitted?4be wrote: When you do high steer conversion the rod has to come off, So thats why i don't reckon they are need, but still curious.
As trains said when lifting always loosen the bolts on the tourque arm or you will end up with a chassie like v6hilux posted. Although i have seen stock hilux's break this as well. Its also common for one of the welds to have missed the chassie on that mount which doesn't help either.
As for the lane changes under braking on some and not others. This will depend on wether the springs are flexy or not. Heavy springs dont suffer the brake steer as bad. I ran my hilux without the tourque rod for a long time with flexy springs. All you need to do under brakes is not fight the steering wheel. Let it rotate the 1/4 turn it wants to to compensate for the diff moving back under brakes.
Once you go Cross over steering the tourqe rod is useless other than limiting a little axle wrap. Although to make crossover steering and flexy springs work 100% you really need a Panhard rod added.
A mate'o'mine said to to the sleeve mod, where one end slides into the other. It looks like it's still attached when it's done that way.
As for legals, it must be in place.
Dont know how much steer correction it would do, but that would depend on the thickness of the steel used.
I never did it to mine.
As for legals, it must be in place.
Dont know how much steer correction it would do, but that would depend on the thickness of the steel used.
I never did it to mine.
I'm the sharpest tool in the shed!
yeah tore the same hole in my rail,tried mounting it under the spring hanger,didnt seem to really do the job and bent it anyway.gunna get the rail plated and put mount back in oe position .
85dualcablux, blownbigblock!, corollaheads!, 1000lnostank!, vespa6speed!, wheelsofmemumscorona!, wrxsunvisors!,dbloverheadfoxtails!-moreblingthanfittycent! -almost forgot-1xhiclone
The main purpose of the torque rod is to stop bump steer with suspension movement. In std trim it matches the steering drag link in length and angle so no matter where the axle moves it does not alter relative to the steering. This is the same priciple of matching the the panard and draglink on a coil front end, if they arnt matched this will cause bump steer.
Wally
Wally
THERES ONLY ONE SUBSTITUTE FOR CUBES AND THATS MORE and if you want more inchs stroke it !!!!!!!!!!!
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