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spring flex

Tech Talk for Suzuki owners.

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spring flex

Post by get it up there »

I just removed the overload springs on the rear of my zook, before i did this the springs were that hard they didnt go anywhere near the factory bump-stops when flexing upwards. Now that i have removed the O/L springs, the spring pack now goes: ^ as it is not reaching the bump stop. Before i extend the bump stops, i was wondering if anyone knew how much flex the springs should take before breaking?? Thanks..
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Post by grimbo »

there is no answer because different springs, different loads, different amount of times they have fully flexed etc etc etc. will mean springs will break at different times and for different reasons. having said that you'd be pretty unlucky to break a spring in half due to over flexing on a 2" lift. I have seen them bend, usually from hitting something, but never break
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Post by Gwagensteve »

Technically, any time you significantly invert a spring it will shorten its life.

The reason your springs still don't go anywhere near your bumpstops though is because of longer than stock shackles. Also, you'll hit the bumpstops under impact even if you don't when flexed static.

The bigger problem is not really breakage - breakage is more caused by axle wrap, but loosing height.

To keep your springs happy, i'd space the stops down 1/2 the length your shackles are over standard. If it's 2", put 1" on the bumpstops.

there are major stability benefits to be gained by getting the car to sit on the bumpstops when articulated.

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NIK
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Post by NIK »

This is becoming a regular thing but dont tell steve :finger:
I agree you wouldnt believe the stability that is gain by proper bumpstop spacing. 10 years of zuking no 1 told me this and I thought it was all about flex.
But its very reasuring when flexing on side angles and feeling it settle on the bumpstop and you know there wont be any unexpected weight tranfer as the suspension cant move anymore.
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Post by GRPABT1 »

Also agree, my zook with calmini kit sits comfortably on the bumpstops on flex and in the slow scary stuff it helps.
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Post by get it up there »

Never thought of it like that... Thanks heaps everyone!! All i've gotta do now is work out which leafs to remove from the front without things turning to sh*t!! thanks again everyone...
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Post by GRPABT1 »

I run 3 in the front an 4 in the back, seems to work well. If I were never carrying a load I'd run 3 in the back too.
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Post by get it up there »

GRPABT1 wrote:I run 3 in the front an 4 in the back, seems to work well. If I were never carrying a load I'd run 3 in the back too.
Oh right.. good good. I've searched for previous threads on a set-up the same as mine, but couldnt find one. At the moment, (in the front) i have 4 leafs, the 3 top ones are all nearly the same in length, but the very bottom leaf is about 10" shorter than the other 3.. any idea which one to remove?? I wish i could figuire out how to add a picture, so i can show you's all!!!! :x
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Post by alien »

usually its the 3rd leaf down.... or 2nd one from the bottom... if you undo the spring pack you'll notice one of the middle ones has HEAPS of arc on it and if you stand on it and jump it hardly moves... thats the sucker to take out!
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Post by get it up there »

sounds the goods!! Thanks mate.. i'll be doing that for sure. Thanks again..
F&R ARB air lockers, lux diffs, 4 link coil rear, drop shackles, inboarded ranchos, stage 4 reduction gears, 35" silverstones, 9500 winch, RUF, 1.6 EFI, swimming goggles
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