4130warrior wrote:want33s wrote:4130warrior wrote:
Getting the clearcoat to flow is all about heat, moreso than the actual cutting compound. That works to reduce friction so the paint isn't damaged, but it's the high speed spinning of the buffing wheel that heats the top coat up and lets it flow again. Just gotta be careful not to cut through the paint....
Try telling this 'theory' to a spraypainter and you'll get laughed out of the workshop.
Whatever champ, I spent 2 boring years polishing bloody cars at an auctioneers for 10 hrs a day and it works to get small scratches out. Yes cutting compound removes oxidisation/crows feet but do you think it magically paints over scratches or something?

Don't get me wrong "Champ" .. No offence but you might have polished lots of cars but that doesn't mean you understand how the processes work.
Cutting won't polish.
Polish won't remove scratches.
Cutting compound doesn't "magically" do anything, it removes the paint/clear surrounding the scratch so the bottom of the scratch is the same height as the rest.
The buff pad is there to carry the fine abrasive cutting compound which removes the surface of the paint/clear. There is no heating or flowing of paint/clear at all (if done properly), you can easily melt the paint/clear if you hold the buff still for too long. Melt the paint/clear and impurities will get trapped and it won't be clear any more.
The speed of the pad doesn't make much difference to the end result but it does save a lot of time.
A car can be cut back by hand and come up just as well and unless you are bionic your hand isn't as fast as a buff.
NO AMOUNT of "Polish" will remove scratches. It will however leave a layer of wax or silicone that will seal the surface and give a shine.
Hope this makes it a bit 'clearer'.