warn solenoids

[ausoops]

can anyone tell me if warn can style solenoids earth the operating coil through the can chassis or only through the stud?

[4runner_boy]

Pretty sure its through the stud mate

[snatch]

yeah confirm it is the stud.

[ausoops]

thankyou

[Cossie]

Actually the early ones earthed through the can chassis. Newer ones have a seperate earth wire.

[dont_follow_me]

can anyone post a pic of the internals/wiring for the 4 solenoid warn winch control box.

my warn doesnt work, just got the car not so long ago, and I have run a volt meter over the control box. I have power into the control box and when I use the hand controller, the power goes to the solenoids but none of the solenoids are clicking or anything.

It may be an earth problem or all the solenoids are buggered and judging by the amound of mud and silt in the box, it could the solenoids are buggered.

it seems that all the solenoids are connected by either cables or metal shunts and I cant seem to figure out the wiring system, so if someone could post a pic, that would be handy.

thanks in advance

[David_S]

Here is Warn's diagram of the four solenoid pack taken from an old 8274 manual





If you think the solenoids are faulty you can bypass them and test the motor directly as follows. Just make sure that the motor is held securely if bench testing as there is a lot of torque.





Cheers, David

[dont_follow_me]

thanks David, thats great

what size cables should I be using if testing the motor, ones as big as the power cables I assume.

I was thinking of testing it insitu and using jumper cables if room permits. Theres little point replacing the solenoids at about $100 if the motor is shot as well

[David_S]

Jumper cables are just fine. Just make sure your fingers, clothing etc are clear of the fairlead when you test it.

If your solenoids are shot you will probably find just one dead allowing the winch to wind one way and not the other. It would be unusual to have all solenoids dead at the same time. Try removing them and testing them individually, they should make a definite click. If they work when removed then the problem is with your remote (plug or lead) or poor earthing of the solenoid when mounted. If more than one is dead consider changing to a Titan-type unit as sold by Beretta of this forum. I did so 18 months ago and have had no problems since and have done a lot of heavy winching. Titans or similar units are not particularly cheap but worth it. If replacing a can type solenoid make sure they are rated for continuous use not intermittent.

Also with all the mud in there think about relocating the solenoid pack to a more protected spot under the bonnet. Better for security too. Again not a particularly cheap mod as you have to make up some longer cables. I recommend 50 sq.mm cable or heavier rather than standard 35 sq.mm starter-type cable. And it pays not to rely on earthing through the chassis but to have a separate earth cable taken back to the battery negative terminal. If you do relocate the solenoids it pays to fit an in-cab operating switch, or a wireless remote, or both. Makes life easier. (I have gone a bit overboard here and can operate my winch from the driver's seat, the co-pilot's seat, corded remote plugged into a socket in the grille, and wireless remote which is the one I use most of the time)

If the motor is dead try opening it up and having a look. Be careful not to lose any spacers on the shaft when removing it. With all that mud around you will probably find a lot of corrosion and dirt. It may just need a good clean or you may find a loose terminal.

David

[Bitumen Beast]

Just lookin through this thread, Those diagrams are great, makes it so much easier to realise how the solenoids work. Nice work David