How hard is it to fit tyres to rims yourself, and what gear would you need?
Seems like it would be a valuable skill... or is it just too involved/specialised?
Jason
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Fitting tyres to rims in the comfort of your own garage
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POS wrote:Yes but how is that going to help when you roll a tyre of the rim out in the middle of no where!!
Its not that hard to do and is valuable to know how!!
That's it. I can't stand paying people to do stuff for me and it's not just because I don't trust anyone, it's because it makes much more sense to me to learn something new.
Besides, I agree it's not that pricey when you are just fitting say four tyres, but let's say you have two sets of five tyres and rims and you want the tyres on the opposite rims... starts getting expensive and worth spending a few hours on.
Jason
im not saying i dont know how to do it
i know how to its just i dont get enuf time to swap 8 rims around
it cost me 60 bucks to swap rims from a set of 31 to a set of 35 and vice versa
i coulda done it me self but i got heaps of other shit to do
im not sayin dont do it at all
go ahead and do it if you've never done the tyrepliuer thing b4
i know how to its just i dont get enuf time to swap 8 rims around
it cost me 60 bucks to swap rims from a set of 31 to a set of 35 and vice versa
i coulda done it me self but i got heaps of other shit to do
im not sayin dont do it at all
go ahead and do it if you've never done the tyrepliuer thing b4
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Changing tyres
If you are going to spend money on a bead breaker have a look at the R & R Bead Breaker. Takes a lot less effort than Tyre Pliers to break the bead and also helps to put the tyre back on
Dave
Dave
Chimp , I usually take them to get them done but :
When you do them yourself some thing to keep in mind ,
When you have part of the bead over the rim keep it down on the smallest diameter section of the rim,ditto for removal
Valve out , run your car up along the edge close to the rim to break the bead ,
I refrian from using detergant on the tire to aid in instalation , i believe once it dries it leaves a residue that gets slipery agian when the tires gets wet , causing a low pres tire to come of the bead easier.
Take care of your beads dont damage them , a slow leak is a pita
:
When you do them yourself some thing to keep in mind ,
When you have part of the bead over the rim keep it down on the smallest diameter section of the rim,ditto for removal
Valve out , run your car up along the edge close to the rim to break the bead ,
I refrian from using detergant on the tire to aid in instalation , i believe once it dries it leaves a residue that gets slipery agian when the tires gets wet , causing a low pres tire to come of the bead easier.
Take care of your beads dont damage them , a slow leak is a pita
:
Posts: 3523
Joined: Sun May 18, 2003 8:42 pm
Joined: Sun May 18, 2003 8:42 pm
Location: Somewhere they can't reach me, shoot me or electrocute me...
I strip and remount all my wheels and tyres, except my pretty alloy mags... and it sure is easier if you know how to when you have to change a tyres/s on a sunday arvo...
Tools as mentioned, good strong levers - get them from a local tyre shop - (3 is best, but you can use two) a good beadbreaker (I ended up making my own - similar to the RR, but of my own design) a radio, a full esky, a sturdy dish brush, a cake of soap (lux) and a container to put the soap in with a bit of water to make a soap sludge.
Without posting up a training manual, here are a few tips:
Use the soapy sludge through every stage of the process to lubricate the tyre and rim - trust me, it is a real pita without any lube. If you want to, just wipe out the soap residue from the rim and the tyre bead before you seat the beads, but leave them wet with clean water to help in seating the bead. Seat the bead with about 40psi, then deflate to whatever pressure you want.
Work from the face of the wheel, not the back. You will notice the contour of the rim allows the tyre to sit in the centre hollow, allowing you to remove the bead from the face of the wheel first.
There is a video available from tyrepliers - I've never seen it though.
Yes, it is easier to get the tyre shop to do it, but why let them have all the fun?
Tools as mentioned, good strong levers - get them from a local tyre shop - (3 is best, but you can use two) a good beadbreaker (I ended up making my own - similar to the RR, but of my own design) a radio, a full esky, a sturdy dish brush, a cake of soap (lux) and a container to put the soap in with a bit of water to make a soap sludge.
Without posting up a training manual, here are a few tips:
Use the soapy sludge through every stage of the process to lubricate the tyre and rim - trust me, it is a real pita without any lube. If you want to, just wipe out the soap residue from the rim and the tyre bead before you seat the beads, but leave them wet with clean water to help in seating the bead. Seat the bead with about 40psi, then deflate to whatever pressure you want.
Work from the face of the wheel, not the back. You will notice the contour of the rim allows the tyre to sit in the centre hollow, allowing you to remove the bead from the face of the wheel first.
There is a video available from tyrepliers - I've never seen it though.
Yes, it is easier to get the tyre shop to do it, but why let them have all the fun?
Last edited by Area54 on Mon Dec 08, 2003 10:55 am, edited 1 time in total.
Built, not bought.
God of Magnificant Ideas!
Been here did this !!!!
When ya out in no-where land its a MUST know skill, I've changed em with nothing more than a pair of screwdrivers, a car jack, and a bit of oil.... long story but it WAS"NT fun at the time .....
First I drove a mates rig up onto the flat tyre ( the rubber bit not the rim ) and by moving back n forth slowly I managed to pop the tyre from the rim, then repeated this on the other side. Once the beads were broken I used the screwdrivers to lever off the tyre from the rim... repaired the hole in d tube, smeared some engine oil onto the bead, used the screwdrivers to lever the tyre back onto the rim, add air, replace wheel !
sounds easy but not in the middle of a fuggin desert with zip shade and 42 degree heat !!!
like all the guys above said....
tyre levers or "tyre pliers"..... cost factor is big
a rubber mallet ................... Cheap as !
and something all the others forgot...... SOAPY WATER.... makes it so much easier, and a PUNCTURE REPAIR KIT... that really helps !!
When ya out in no-where land its a MUST know skill, I've changed em with nothing more than a pair of screwdrivers, a car jack, and a bit of oil.... long story but it WAS"NT fun at the time .....
First I drove a mates rig up onto the flat tyre ( the rubber bit not the rim ) and by moving back n forth slowly I managed to pop the tyre from the rim, then repeated this on the other side. Once the beads were broken I used the screwdrivers to lever off the tyre from the rim... repaired the hole in d tube, smeared some engine oil onto the bead, used the screwdrivers to lever the tyre back onto the rim, add air, replace wheel !
sounds easy but not in the middle of a fuggin desert with zip shade and 42 degree heat !!!
like all the guys above said....
tyre levers or "tyre pliers"..... cost factor is big
a rubber mallet ................... Cheap as !
and something all the others forgot...... SOAPY WATER.... makes it so much easier, and a PUNCTURE REPAIR KIT... that really helps !!
[color=blue][size=150][b]And your cry-baby, whinyassed opinion would be.....? [/b][/size][/color]
Speaking of puncture repair kits .. who has used what .. what did you like dislike about the kit and why ???
For the guys with beadlocked rim\tyre combos the "fix it in place" scenario is their only viable alternative if the would like to continue on a day trip or in a comp ..
Or for the lazy amoung us (like me) it's way easier to plug a leak from the outside .. so thats what I do
personally i use a $10 kit I got at super creap has not let me down yet ... (very poor use of words) ..
For the guys with beadlocked rim\tyre combos the "fix it in place" scenario is their only viable alternative if the would like to continue on a day trip or in a comp ..
Or for the lazy amoung us (like me) it's way easier to plug a leak from the outside .. so thats what I do
personally i use a $10 kit I got at super creap has not let me down yet ... (very poor use of words) ..
" If governments are involved in the covering up the knowledge of aliens, Then they are doing a much better job of it than they do of everything else "
I got me a cheap(not nasty?) camel repair kit,
for fixing on the go
but for rim changes at home i got me a buddy around the corner does tyres and rim changes for nix
even changes my mudddies back to standards most mondays.
10 minutes max,
MAAAAAAAATTTTTTTTTTTTEEEEEEEEEEEE!!!!!
for fixing on the go
but for rim changes at home i got me a buddy around the corner does tyres and rim changes for nix
even changes my mudddies back to standards most mondays.
10 minutes max,
MAAAAAAAATTTTTTTTTTTTEEEEEEEEEEEE!!!!!
1995 lwb gq patrol 2.8 litre turbo diesel.
fairly standard for now cept a mostly rebuilt motor and front diff!!!!!!!!!!!!!.
100s gxl cruiser triple locked and plenty of afetrmarket touring crap!
fairly standard for now cept a mostly rebuilt motor and front diff!!!!!!!!!!!!!.
100s gxl cruiser triple locked and plenty of afetrmarket touring crap!
God of Magnificant Ideas!
love_mud wrote:Speaking of puncture repair kits .. who has used what .. what did you like dislike about the kit and why ???
For the guys with beadlocked rim\tyre combos the "fix it in place" scenario is their only viable alternative if the would like to continue on a day trip or in a comp ..
Or for the lazy amoung us (like me) it's way easier to plug a leak from the outside .. so thats what I do
personally i use a $10 kit I got at super creap has not let me down yet ... (very poor use of words) ..
I've found these to ba a very viable option.... so far I tend to go for the 4 wheel m/cycle puncture repair kit.... cost is about the same , kit contains all the bits ya need, good strudy packaging, and it fits neatly in d glovebox !
Also tried the pressure pak type puncture repair cans.... good for "get me home" repairs, but I've never got any more than 3 or 4 hundered k's out of a can.
[color=blue][size=150][b]And your cry-baby, whinyassed opinion would be.....? [/b][/size][/color]
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