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Suggestions on air system please
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
Suggestions on air system please
Hey guys done a lot of research still undecided
Just got a projecta typhoon air pump wondering how to set it up.. are they efficient to use just by themselves or am i better off getting a tank? If so big or small really dont know where to start
Appreciate any help you guys can give me
Just got a projecta typhoon air pump wondering how to set it up.. are they efficient to use just by themselves or am i better off getting a tank? If so big or small really dont know where to start
Appreciate any help you guys can give me
Re: Suggestions on air system please
efficent enough for ??? Inflating beds, tires, rattle guns, beading tires?1patrol wrote:are they efficient to use just by themselves or am i better off getting a tank?
Re: Suggestions on air system please
A pneumatic powered sex toy, just like yours.bogged wrote:efficent enough for ??? Inflating beds, tires, rattle guns, beading tires?1patrol wrote:are they efficient to use just by themselves or am i better off getting a tank?
Posts: 242
Joined: Wed Jul 11, 2007 9:38 am
Joined: Wed Jul 11, 2007 9:38 am
Location: stuck in a hole. not offroad, just deception bay
what sort of output does it have? if its only small capacity it will take forever to fill a tank and will probabally have to work hard to do it and end up burning out, i have an endless air setup with a 19 litre tank and it is just a bit too big for my liking, something between 10 and 15 litre will give me a perfect duty cycle.
if you do get a tank make sure you fit a pressure relief valve incase the pressure switch fails, you dont want exploding air tanks!!! you will also need a back check valve to stop the air cycling back through the compressor when its off.
for just inflating tyres and little stuff a tank isnt necessary and the compressor should cope fine but i would still fit a pressure switch. (if the compressor doesn't have an automatic cutout)
if you do get a tank make sure you fit a pressure relief valve incase the pressure switch fails, you dont want exploding air tanks!!! you will also need a back check valve to stop the air cycling back through the compressor when its off.
for just inflating tyres and little stuff a tank isnt necessary and the compressor should cope fine but i would still fit a pressure switch. (if the compressor doesn't have an automatic cutout)
I've got a typhoon twin pump, its rated at 150lts a minute. I brought a 15ltr tank from bunnings for 50 bucks with guage and fittings. Havnt got it fitted up to the tank yet, but it pumps up 35s in reasonable time. Alot quicker than the new arb compressor.
Cheers den
Cheers den
89 st wagon, 4.2 turbo, top mount intercooler, 3'' zaust, factory locker, 2'' bodylift, 4''lift, superior drop box's, 35'' mtz, custom bullbar, premier winch
Thanks for the tip off got one of them tanks todayDen81 wrote:I've got a typhoon twin pump, its rated at 150lts a minute. I brought a 15ltr tank from bunnings for 50 bucks with guage and fittings. Havnt got it fitted up to the tank yet, but it pumps up 35s in reasonable time. Alot quicker than the new arb compressor.
Cheers den
only new on the site so excuse my late reply but im lookin at putting a scuba tank air system in my paj to run my truck horns, air tools and pump up tyres, still a work in progress but deff the way to go in my opinion
mike_nofx wrote:Is "Athol" what people with a lisp call him??
RAY185 wrote:I think it's delightful! So does my wife Bill.
Im going to run two Typhoon twin piston 150lt per min compressors into a tank. I allmost have all the parts required so all l have to do now is work out where im going to mount it. I am thinking directly behind the passenger rear seat in the recess in the floor and mount the tank between the fridge and the side of the car which is only wasted space anyway. I will update with pics as l continue.
Mav LWB Auto Rockhoppers Locked
HIANUFGQ some things ( from bitter experience ) to watch with these compressors.
1/ Mount then with the cylinder heads UP ( as your pics show ) otherwise the small discharge valve will fall out after awhile and no air....
2/ The gasket between the cylinder head cover and the head plate kept squeezing out on mine when it was hot and under pressure. May be some gasket cement would help this.
3/ use separate check valves between the compressors and receiver. The valves in the compressors slowly leak back and you will continually loose pressure. If you have two check valves and one compressor dies then all is not lost.
4/ try not to restrict ventilation. The thermal cutout will protect them but it takes ages to reset.
Hope this helps - and you have better luck than I did
1/ Mount then with the cylinder heads UP ( as your pics show ) otherwise the small discharge valve will fall out after awhile and no air....
2/ The gasket between the cylinder head cover and the head plate kept squeezing out on mine when it was hot and under pressure. May be some gasket cement would help this.
3/ use separate check valves between the compressors and receiver. The valves in the compressors slowly leak back and you will continually loose pressure. If you have two check valves and one compressor dies then all is not lost.
4/ try not to restrict ventilation. The thermal cutout will protect them but it takes ages to reset.
Hope this helps - and you have better luck than I did
( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
Cheers, thanks. My first thought where to keep them upright. Im going to put a oneway valve at the tank and work out some way to release the air in the line and cylinders when not in use, so when it starts up again its not starting under pressure. This in turn should help against gasket wear. But l havnt worked out how to do that yet.MightyMouse wrote:HIANUFGQ some things ( from bitter experience ) to watch with these compressors.
1/ Mount then with the cylinder heads UP ( as your pics show ) otherwise the small discharge valve will fall out after awhile and no air....
2/ The gasket between the cylinder head cover and the head plate kept squeezing out on mine when it was hot and under pressure. May be some gasket cement would help this.
3/ use separate check valves between the compressors and receiver. The valves in the compressors slowly leak back and you will continually loose pressure. If you have two check valves and one compressor dies then all is not lost.
4/ try not to restrict ventilation. The thermal cutout will protect them but it takes ages to reset.
Hope this helps - and you have better luck than I did
Mav LWB Auto Rockhoppers Locked
just thought i would post a layout of my air setup.....excuse the poor drawing, but the idea is there.
i run a boss 3/4 HP electric compressor and a 40L air tank. now i didnt want to make sure there was at least 85psi in the tank before being able to use my lockers, so there is a valve before the tank (which i have access to in the cab) to separate the air from the tank. when using my lockers i can just charge up the 3/4 of a metre of air line and use that to run the lockers. its pressure regulated to 85psi. when i open the valve, it charges the tank to 150psi. i have 1 air outlet on each side of the tray and the air horn is also mounted under the tray, through a regulator.
this seems to work very well.
any other questions, feel free to ask.
cheers
PAUL
i run a boss 3/4 HP electric compressor and a 40L air tank. now i didnt want to make sure there was at least 85psi in the tank before being able to use my lockers, so there is a valve before the tank (which i have access to in the cab) to separate the air from the tank. when using my lockers i can just charge up the 3/4 of a metre of air line and use that to run the lockers. its pressure regulated to 85psi. when i open the valve, it charges the tank to 150psi. i have 1 air outlet on each side of the tray and the air horn is also mounted under the tray, through a regulator.
this seems to work very well.
any other questions, feel free to ask.
cheers
PAUL
HIANUFGQ if you put the check valves at the receiver and have a substantial length of line from the compressors, the air in this line will leak down via the compressor discharge valves.
When the compressors next start they will take a short while to pump the line up again and relieve some of the stress on the compressors.
Yo could also use a second small receiver at the compressors ( coke can size ) and then run to the main receiver via a check valve. Same as above air will leak out of the small receiver via the compressors but the check will stop the main receiver emptying.
Hope this makes sense.
When the compressors next start they will take a short while to pump the line up again and relieve some of the stress on the compressors.
Yo could also use a second small receiver at the compressors ( coke can size ) and then run to the main receiver via a check valve. Same as above air will leak out of the small receiver via the compressors but the check will stop the main receiver emptying.
Hope this makes sense.
( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
Use a check valve inline as close to the compressor as possible. You can get these check valves from air compressor shops, I live on the Gold Coast and got mine from Cospaker pnuematics, very helpful indeed.
The check valve I got through them also released the 'hot' (pressured) air in the air line. I used a truck air tank from some sort of Isuzu truck (900 I think) from the truck wreckers in brissie. From memory about 18 -20 litre holding capacity and already had 6 ports to run stuff from.
Hope this helps.
PM me for more info if required.
Dano.
The check valve I got through them also released the 'hot' (pressured) air in the air line. I used a truck air tank from some sort of Isuzu truck (900 I think) from the truck wreckers in brissie. From memory about 18 -20 litre holding capacity and already had 6 ports to run stuff from.
Hope this helps.
PM me for more info if required.
Dano.
dano80, your valve seems to be more complex than a check valve - more like an unloader which would be perfect for the job.
A check valve simply allows air ( or whatever ) to flow one way and would be better placed for this application away from the compressors ( leakdown unloading )
Yep and receiver is industrial pneumatics speak for a "tank" - old habits.......
A check valve simply allows air ( or whatever ) to flow one way and would be better placed for this application away from the compressors ( leakdown unloading )
Yep and receiver is industrial pneumatics speak for a "tank" - old habits.......
( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
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