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Tuning my zook

Tech Talk for Suzuki owners.

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Joined: Sat Jan 05, 2008 5:25 pm
Location: Newcastle

Tuning my zook

Post by Biggin »

Hi im trying to tune my 1.3 zook and need help working out what screw is the mixture screw and if anyone has any tips.
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NIK
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Location: Newcastle

Post by NIK »

Its been a long while since Ive run the stock carb but I think the mix screw is on the base of the carb facing the tappet cover and is covered by a shroud to stop you adjusting it.
Sorry that all my knowledge on stock carbs other than they cost big $ to rebuild quoted up to $400!!!
Nik
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Post by scooby_74 »

screw if orignal has an ally cover on it soposed to use a genuine tool.
bottom of carb facing r/cover.

Good Luck :)
93 NJ,5 speed,2" body lift,32" muddies

There's nuttn like momentum
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Location: Western Brisbane

Post by Highway-Star »

I cut the shroud off with a dremil, now my car can be tuned with a pair of vice grips.

In a ideal would the carb should never need re-tuning, but they do, its either because the jet slowly wears out, or because it slowly works its way out over time. But I tuned mine 2 years ago and havn't had to touch it again since.

I do find myself adjusting the idle stop screw more regular than I should though, But I think thats because of the cold plugs I run which do not agree with winter.
Wheeling on completely wicked angles, without even looking stable.
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Post by Lil'Loki »

My experience is if the cap is still on, and you need to adjust the mixture it's time for a carby recondition.

The options you have are…
1. Buy a kit and do it yourself (I've never done it - I've heard kits cost around $50 - Don't quote me though)
2. Pay a Carby specialist to recondition it for you. ($300 upwards and they'll acid bath it as well before reconditioning it).
3. Buy a Holley or Weber (You'll need to buy the adapter plate - some problems with starving or flooding on inclines while wheelin')
4. I bought a reconditioned carby from some guy off ebay who'd plonked a Holley 180 in his zook. Ended up he was local so got to meet him face to face and view his holley set up. Got to keep my original carby as well, so I can recon that down the track and change back when needed. Cost me $400 but the recon was only 6 months old and I have a back up carb now.

:D
www.auszookers.com
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Post by lilzook »

Where is the idle adjustment screw on the stock carb?

and do you guys run 5 or 6 heat range plugs? the bp5es is whats under the bonnet on the sticker. should i run with them?
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Location: Western Brisbane

Post by Highway-Star »

lilzook wrote:Where is the idle adjustment screw on the stock carb?

and do you guys run 5 or 6 heat range plugs? the bp5es is whats under the bonnet on the sticker. should i run with them?

I'm really bad at describing things but I'll have a crack:
Look for the accelerator cable, and where it attaches to the butterfly shaft, on this circular shaped mount is a screw that hits a stop, when this hits, thats your idle speed.

There is also another screw for "fast idle" that in a royal PITA positiion to get to, under the back sort of area.

My father runs the recomended plug (NGK one), and his Sierra runs great, however he does use premium unleaded usually on every second tank. If he fails to have higher octane fuels, it does ping when laboured.

I run Champion Gold N11YX, which requires slight re-tuning to run at its best, and also makes it an absolute cow to start at 5am in the middle of winter (10C sort of thing). Also my engine is not as smooth as my fathers, it idles lumpier. But the upside is I only ever run it on 91 octane fuel, and it never pings, never ever, ever.
Wheeling on completely wicked angles, without even looking stable.
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Post by lilzook »

thanks mate :)
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