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getdirty wrote:One day Bruce you may supply some accurate information..... instead of all this YMMV!
Firstly you shouldn't need a brake or swerve test for an engineers, I didn't and don't know anyone else who has. Secondly who is really going to bother spending $600 on an engineers for a set of springs???????
So will you.. My car did need the brake and swerve test... Thats why I mentioned it... So did TB's who had his done 3 mths ago also by Kevin W... <-- Lots of
Last edited by bogged on Wed Dec 03, 2003 5:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.
bogged wrote: So will you.. My car did need the brake and swerve test... Thats why I mentioned it... So did TB's who had his done 3 mths ago also by Kevin W... <-- Lots of
Feel free to name any part of inaccurate information that I said was fact. I'm not going to fuck up a serious thread with stupid arguments, but please don't treat what you've been told or may have experienced as gospel.
Hmmm...... so Kevin W is only worthwhile using if you want to get BFG's engineered. I have the contact details of an engineer that in my experience does not request a brake or swerve test.
Perhaps get the car engineered elsewhere then get this guy to ammend the cert just for the tyres.
AREA 54 Wrote:
These won't be necessary for the cert, although a SPOA kit may be needed. I have one in the shed, bought it for the mav never fitted it though, got it off Juilan_4x4, he said it would work.
Good idea.
Every coils sprung truck would benefit from a SPOA.
You Could make a lot of Monopoly money selling these kits.
I know the limited $/ university thing, is the full time job you scored holidays or permanent
Personally mate I'd be doing the minimum in terms of cost to get the begger on 33's and saving for a locker/s. Will get you a LOT further than 2" bigger tyres and open diffs.
33's and locked diffs will be heaps capable till you finish uni in a few years
(If you have a locker and I missed that somewhere I'll eat my hat )
i have been talking to a few more people about lifting the shorty, and i am not sure about 3" anymore. It seems to be too much hastle becasue of the vibration etc and can cost lots to fix it and the strain in the drivetrain in the longterm.
let me know if you are going walhalla way for your trip some mates and i would be interested, with the problem with the lift what about if you use crossmember spacers i think a mate had some in his shed or get the dimentions and make some.
i spoke to cheezy today and i have to wait about 1 month before he is able to jack my car up. bugger hey, well by then i will have some $$$ saved up so i would be getting the tyres very soon after.
By that time though my tyres now will be well and truely f**ked.
getdirty wrote:Here are a couple of comparison photos.
The Black/gold SWB (Aus4wd's) runs 3" springs and 3" body with 35" X-Terrains with fairly heavily trimmed guards.
The White SWB runs 3" springs and 2" body with 35" X-Terrains and mildly trimmed guards.
The Red SWB (Ptrool) runs 4/5" springs and 3" body with 35" MTR's and standard guards.
Guess its all different when it comes to SWB's I stand corrected. - my mate's LWB runs 2 inch body and 3inch springs with 35's with very slight scraping at the rear 1/4. Guess tyre choice also plays a big part as well
A 3" spring light and some minor trimming will fit 35 BFGs with the only rubbing being on the inside of the rear wheel arch. With some pretty mean trimming of the guards 36s will fit with tonly the same rubbing as above.
GQ wrote: Guess its all different when it comes to SWB's I stand corrected. - my mate's LWB runs 2 inch body and 3inch springs with 35's with very slight scraping at the rear 1/4. Guess tyre choice also plays a big part as well
Regards Tom
Not really different, the Black SWB has had guards cut to fit 38's with 4" springs, and has done before with no scrubbing.
The white one has only trimming on the rear of the guards to stop scraping.
And mine scrapes the tyres on the rear of the rear guards (but only just, and only at full full flex which hardly ever happens in real world situations!).
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