ok well ive had the paj for bout 8 months now since my grandfather gave it to me, runs fine and all its just that the mechanic he took it too was pretty dodge and afew things have reared their head and are starting to wear. its done 240500km and its the 3lt V6
firstly, brake master cylinder is leaking, see rust caused by brake fluid
second, clutch master cylinder is leaking, started to flow into cabin
thirdly, bad oil leaks around transfer case
lastly it chews through the oil yet there are no visiable oil leaks around the engine, just after long periods of idle it bellows blue smoke ive been told a number of different things but yet to have a solid answer, could it be the rings on the pistons?
oh and front left wheel bearings need repacking, and it idles at 200rpm
it still drives fine its just starting to wear and seeing as im going away for a few weeks up to kalumbaru with mates mid year i thought i would get it fixed while im away.
really im just trying to get peoples opinion on what needs to be done, the serverity and wether or not u can diy to save money and time given that when i had my clutch done they said it would be a 3 day job and i saw it sitting outside for a day and a half before they actually started working on it.
thanks all,
Cam
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NG niggles
Moderator: -Scott-
Wow!
I wish my Gramps left me something like that!
The "faults" you list all seem minor.
Clean around the transfer case to identify the position of that leak.
If you can't wield spanners (which I suspect from your post), I would advise you to take it to a non-franchised workshop with a good reputation. Ask for a quote (money and time) before committing to the repairs.
For a good DIY mechanic, it would not take longer than a day.
I wish my Gramps left me something like that!
The "faults" you list all seem minor.
Clean around the transfer case to identify the position of that leak.
If you can't wield spanners (which I suspect from your post), I would advise you to take it to a non-franchised workshop with a good reputation. Ask for a quote (money and time) before committing to the repairs.
For a good DIY mechanic, it would not take longer than a day.
1989 LWB Exceed
3.2 DiD
5-spd manual & SuperSelect
2" body lift
33" Bridgestone D694 ATs
Front Runner Roof Rack
Bilstein Shocks
3.2 DiD
5-spd manual & SuperSelect
2" body lift
33" Bridgestone D694 ATs
Front Runner Roof Rack
Bilstein Shocks
The blue smoke after idling is a classic symptom of worn valve stem seals. They can be replaced without removing the heads - if all goes well. If all doesn't go well, the heads will need to come off to finish the job.
If you can cope with the oil consumption and are not disturbed by polluting there's no urgency for a repair. If you plan to keep the vehicle it might be a better idea to save up, pull the heads and have them reconditioned - perhaps when the timing belt is due next.
Cheers,
Scott
If you can cope with the oil consumption and are not disturbed by polluting there's no urgency for a repair. If you plan to keep the vehicle it might be a better idea to save up, pull the heads and have them reconditioned - perhaps when the timing belt is due next.
Cheers,
Scott
if you need to check what the problem is with oil consumption,
a compression test is the best.
Buy a compression guage, about $15 at supercheap, and test each cylinder.
(instructions should be supplied)
and that will quickly tell you what your rings are like.
Generally, if the oil ring is worn, the compression rings aren't far behind...
and as Scott said, valve stem seals, if worn, let a little bit of oil through when idling, so with a little throttle, it will quickly burn and give a bit of smoke. Also at high revs. Very simple to replace. With the rocker covers off, each cylinder can be changed easily, either with compressed air to keep the valves from dropping, or even easier, turn the motor by hand, so each piston at a time is top dead centre, remove the spark plug, and push in a length of clean nylon rope. Once you have enough in there, undo the rocker, release the valve spring and replace the seal, bolt it back together, and repeat for each other cylinder.
It's a pretty simple and strait forward job, a few hours and a few stubbies should have it done, JUST DON'T DROP A VALVE! A simple job turns into removing a head!
a compression test is the best.
Buy a compression guage, about $15 at supercheap, and test each cylinder.
(instructions should be supplied)
and that will quickly tell you what your rings are like.
Generally, if the oil ring is worn, the compression rings aren't far behind...
and as Scott said, valve stem seals, if worn, let a little bit of oil through when idling, so with a little throttle, it will quickly burn and give a bit of smoke. Also at high revs. Very simple to replace. With the rocker covers off, each cylinder can be changed easily, either with compressed air to keep the valves from dropping, or even easier, turn the motor by hand, so each piston at a time is top dead centre, remove the spark plug, and push in a length of clean nylon rope. Once you have enough in there, undo the rocker, release the valve spring and replace the seal, bolt it back together, and repeat for each other cylinder.
It's a pretty simple and strait forward job, a few hours and a few stubbies should have it done, JUST DON'T DROP A VALVE! A simple job turns into removing a head!
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