salisbury plough

[uninformed]

ok, so what have people done to make there sals less of a plough???

obviously fitting bigger tyres helps, but what about shaving the diff etc..

any info or links would be good

cheers, Serg

[def90]

you can shave a fair bit off the bottom of them, then make up a mini slider for it outta plate bolt it to the 2 bolt holes before the tailshaft and wrap up behind or into a diff guard.

[Strange Rover]

If you are really, really keen you can cut the bottom of the diff off entirely and weld in a new plate bottom and then modify the cover so that it still seals. This is what we did to Adrians front diff - bloody lot of work though. Its also been done to the front diff on my 2 seat buggy - but even more so...it was origionally shaved so much that the outside of the ring gear had been machined down for clearance - although I did manage to fit a standard gear back into it (just).

I dont know how much these shaved and plated diffs gain...I can measure if you like (and if I remember) but it takes a bloody lot of work to make happen - I think it took at least 8 hours to do Adrians (especially by the time we had modified the diff cover to fit back on). To do it again it would still take more than 5 hours.

Chuck had just put a Salisbury into the back of his rangie and he just ground the crap out of it and put a "Solid" brand heavy duty cast diff cover on it (ground to suit)...I could measure his also...he took a fair bit off it.

I really need to buy myself a camera

Sam

[ISUZUROVER]

Chuck had just put a Salisbury into the back of his rangie and he just ground the crap out of it and put a "Solid" brand heavy duty cast diff cover on it (ground to suit)...I could measure his also...he took a fair bit off it.

This is what I did to mine too. Welded the drain plug up, and ground as much as I could off while keeping all the original rear cover bolts. Since I was a uni student at the time, I reinforced the stock rear cover and fitted a drain plug, rather than buy a solid cover (which is why mine has a slight weep, no matter how much sikaflex I use to attach the cover.

[andrew e]

I've done the same as sam, but reccomend against it due to the stuff around. I also built my own diff cover out of 1/4 plate, with a 1/2" outer flange, but again i advise against it, unless you can do it at work on work time..............

If you want to know how much it saves, measure between the crownwheel and the lowest point of the drain (its somthing around 40mm). On mine this is less than 7mm.

I'll post pics oneday when i finally install it in my car.

Andy

[rick130]

Did this a few years back.
I didn't go very far, was a bit worried being a daily driver 130, but IIRC I took close to 3/4" off. Just Loctited the plug into the case and relocated the bottom bolt higher up the case and filled the hole with a cutoff bolt loctited in.
I ground the bottom up to the bottom of the lower bolt hole, it just started to go through.

Like Ben I tried to use a standard cover but the seeping gave me the willies so I fitted the cast one. I was going to fab one out of 1/4"plate like Andrew, but the $ and time just didn't add up as i don't have access to most of the gear anymore.
Used some loctite flange sealant too to try and unitise it.

[uninformed]

cheers guys, all great options

my biggest factors are its my only car and daily driver, and my skills and equipment

the housing is cast steel or cast iron, so i dont have a clue about welding this.

i want to keep it simple and totally reliable, so i guess i start by buying a d60 rear cover.... what brand are worth looking at?
i see rick 130 has rockcrusher, any others to look at?

cheers, serg

[uninformed]

hey Sam, dont worry about measurements, just get back to the 80 inch hybrid... : )

oh, yes, buy a camera... please

cheers, Serg

[uninformed]

been looking at the GREAT LAKE OFFROAD covers, so will any D60 cover fit? i guess i just need longer bolts for the thicker ring?

serg

[Strange Rover]

I believe the Rockcrusher brand has changed into the Solid brand - Chucks Solid cover looks identical to rick130's Rockcrusher. IIRC the Solid cover cost $130.

Sam

[Strange Rover]

been looking at the GREAT LAKE OFFROAD covers, so will any D60 cover fit? i guess i just need longer bolts for the thicker ring?

serg

Yep - any d60 cover.

Sam

[rick130]

been looking at the GREAT LAKE OFFROAD covers, so will any D60 cover fit? i guess i just need longer bolts for the thicker ring?

serg

Yep - any d60 cover.

Sam

just have to replace the bolts that come with the D60 cover with metric ones.
The beauty of the HD cast covers is the machined flange.
It seals !

[bigbad]

plenty of choices on ebay http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dl ... 26fsoo%3D2

anyone know what the pinion spline is on the salisbury, d60 come in 10 or 29, looking at some 4.10 gears

[uninformed]

thanks rick130, yeah been tossing up all that stuff in my head re machined etc...

ruffstuffspecialties make one out of 3/8 plate and then machine the ring, GLO say they dont need to because they fabricate/weld/jig properly...

i have seen a few other cast ones... my thinking behind a steel one is i can buy it and sort of shave the sals to suit AND shave the cover to suit sals... sort of a compromise between the 2

jsut want to make sure it is all sealed up and not making a weak point on the underside of housing

serg

[rick130]

<snip>

i have seen a few other cast ones... my thinking behind a steel one is i can buy it and sort of shave the sals to suit AND shave the cover to suit sals... sort of a compromise between the 2

<snip>

serg

Not sure what you're getting at there.

I cut/shaved the underside of the diff, then a few months later ordered the cast cover after I got the $hi+s with the modified stock one leaking (the bottom flange was now non-existent) and cut a lot of the bottom flange off the cast cover and shaped it to suit the cut and grind job I'd done on the diff, drilled a hole to suit the relocated bolt hole and filled what was left of the original bottom hole in the cover with epoxy.

I used Loctite 518 to basically glue the cover to the centre to increase strength. The ribbing on the cast cover helps my mind think that it all works together to make the diff as strong as before
It must have worked as there's been no leaks in the last couple of years.

[rick130]

<snip>

anyone know what the pinion spline is on the salisbury, d60 come in 10 or 29, looking at some 4.10 gears

Can't remember but it's different again.
Pretty sure Sam has said in the past to use a Jeep flange with the D60 pinion.

[uninformed]

<snip>

i have seen a few other cast ones... my thinking behind a steel one is i can buy it and sort of shave the sals to suit AND shave the cover to suit sals... sort of a compromise between the 2

<snip>

serg

Not sure what you're getting at there.

I cut/shaved the underside of the diff, then a few months later ordered the cast cover after I got the $hi+s with the modified stock one leaking (the bottom flange was now non-existent) and cut a lot of the bottom flange off the cast cover and shaped it to suit the cut and grind job I'd done on the diff, drilled a hole to suit the relocated bolt hole and filled what was left of the original bottom hole in the cover with epoxy.

I used Loctite 518 to basically glue the cover to the centre to increase strength. The ribbing on the cast cover helps my mind think that it all works together to make the diff as strong as before
It must have worked as there's been no leaks in the last couple of years.

what i ment was that rockcrusher isnt the only cast one so they must be ok, cause when i started looking around all the d60 covers i was seeing where made from plate and welded, but then i found more cast types...

but if i need to do any welding to the cover i wont be able to weld the cast types.....

the GLO cover i have seen, looks like the bottom of the cover wont be as low as the stock housing so i can atleast take it up to the cover.... then if i want to go more i can do both together... and having the cover in my hand will determine how far i go, as well as having the rear cover off the housing... just trying to keep both strong enough to do the job.....

bloody Plough : )
cheers, serg

[bigbad]

Cast nodular iron also, lots of ally or fabricated steel ones in that ebay link above.

[andrew e]

if you are goung to cut/weld your housing, you may want a non cast cover, as you delete/move the lowest of the bolt holes.

Andy

[rick130]

what i ment was that rockcrusher isnt the only cast one so they must be ok, cause when i started looking around all the d60 covers i was seeing where made from plate and welded, but then i found more cast types...

but if i need to do any welding to the cover i wont be able to weld the cast types.....

the GLO cover i have seen, looks like the bottom of the cover wont be as low as the stock housing so i can atleast take it up to the cover.... then if i want to go more i can do both together... and having the cover in my hand will determine how far i go, as well as having the rear cover off the housing... just trying to keep both strong enough to do the job.....

bloody Plough : )
cheers, serg

fair enough.
BTW, it looks like what Sam says above re Solid/Rockcrusher is the case. Some sort of legal stoush and Rockcrusher morphed into Solid.