Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
clunk when I take off
clunk when I take off
When I take off in reverse or first I get a cluck as the driveline engages. It is comming from where the rear sharf meets the diff. Is this a sign of wear or a normal thing for most zooks? Seems to dissapear if I fan the clutch a bit to reduce the impact if take off but if i just reverse without thinking it happens.
You have worn unis, loose U bolts, worn pinion bearings (incorrect pinion pre load or a collapsed crush sleeve) worn tailshaft splines, or a broken transfer mounts.
It is not normal.
Steve.
It is not normal.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
last time this happened to me it was a very loud clunk sound... i jacked up the whole rear of the zuk and it sounded like it was coming from the axle, but the sound was infact transferring down the axles from the diff centre - i'd buggered up the diff centre doing donuts in mud... (see exhibit A to the left of this message).
Ended up welding the diff solid and the problem was solved... lol
Ended up welding the diff solid and the problem was solved... lol
The worst thing about censorship is ███████.
mine does this wen i back off the throttle and hit it again like wen im cruising at 60kmh. would this be the same problem?
me217
me217
me217
1985 suzuki mighty boy : mods, f8b
1990 toyota mr2 gt import : mods, turbo timer, short shifter, 2.5" exhaust
1992 suzuki sierra : mods, g16b mpfi, 235's/75, snorkel & lift on the way.
1985 suzuki mighty boy : mods, f8b
1990 toyota mr2 gt import : mods, turbo timer, short shifter, 2.5" exhaust
1992 suzuki sierra : mods, g16b mpfi, 235's/75, snorkel & lift on the way.
Had this on my old zook. Was worn out uni'sme217 wrote:mine does this wen i back off the throttle and hit it again like wen im cruising at 60kmh. would this be the same problem?
me217
98 WT LWB Maruti, 1.6efi, rockhoppers, 2" body lift, 2" springs, 32" BFG muddies, jimny Power Steer, front lockrite :-)
Don't let the uni's stay that way for long as i did that and the end of the driveshaft snapped off as it got extremely worn out with the uni's. Secondhand driveshaft was $250 So i fabbed up one using half a nissan 720 driveshaft (same uni size to match suzuki yoke)
More Suzuki parts going to the big Suzuki Heaven in the sky!
God Of Emo
Posts: 7350
Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2003 7:04 pm
Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2003 7:04 pm
Location: Newy, home of the ZOOK (Rockin the 'diff)
Contact:
Sierra uni's are easily obtained from most parts places, and are an easy job to change. To those that are having clunks, put your handbrake on, car in gear, and try to turn the drive shaft, if there is any play in your uni replace it. You should feel the uni "clunk" as you try to rotate the shaft.
Layto....
Layto....
[quote="v840"]Just between me and you, I actually really dig the Megatwon, but if anyone asks, I'm going to shitcan it as much as possible! :D[/quote]
I don't think so, There wouldn't be enough movement, the sound will be damped by the case/oil etc and I've seen some very worn cases and broken rockhoppers (the early 2 piece design) that had massive thrust by didn't make that clunk.JrZook wrote: Possible worn thrust washers within the transfer?
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
whats the easist diy or backyard way to change unis?
Kitika - which end did u use? and is it the same as the zook pattern.
i have a half from a zook rear here missing the other bit
Kitika - which end did u use? and is it the same as the zook pattern.
i have a half from a zook rear here missing the other bit
[url=http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?p=930942#930942&highlight=]Zook[/url]
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
if its not ya unis, it might be your spider gears...
i 'swingin some nuts' in me van on the oval once. after that it was clunkin when taking off. then it lost all drive (good old mum towed me home).
ripped the diff out. find the spider gear shaft split in 2, and the hole it sits in was elongated about 2 inches.
solution, weld spider gears to the side gears, and have fun (see video)
http://www.youtube.com/results?search_q ... arch_type=
i 'swingin some nuts' in me van on the oval once. after that it was clunkin when taking off. then it lost all drive (good old mum towed me home).
ripped the diff out. find the spider gear shaft split in 2, and the hole it sits in was elongated about 2 inches.
solution, weld spider gears to the side gears, and have fun (see video)
http://www.youtube.com/results?search_q ... arch_type=
'Only Cheap Wine Comes in 5 Litres'
2" springs, 2" shackles, 2" Body Lift, 31" cooper st, 2.25" exhorst, extractors, pod filter, GTI engine, microtech, bullbar.
2" springs, 2" shackles, 2" Body Lift, 31" cooper st, 2.25" exhorst, extractors, pod filter, GTI engine, microtech, bullbar.
i put my car into first, let the car roll farward to take up any slack then put handbrake on.lay80n wrote:Sierra uni's are easily obtained from most parts places, and are an easy job to change. To those that are having clunks, put your handbrake on, car in gear, and try to turn the drive shaft, if there is any play in your uni replace it. You should feel the uni "clunk" as you try to rotate the shaft.
Layto....
true to turn the drive shaft and got no movement. what eles could be clunking.
tcase mounts are fine
91 SWB Sierra. 16v 1.6efi, extractors, 6.1gears, SPOA, 32 BF muddys and 2inch bodylift
God Of Emo
Posts: 7350
Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2003 7:04 pm
Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2003 7:04 pm
Location: Newy, home of the ZOOK (Rockin the 'diff)
Contact:
brendan_h wrote:i put my car into first, let the car roll farward to take up any slack then put handbrake on.lay80n wrote:Sierra uni's are easily obtained from most parts places, and are an easy job to change. To those that are having clunks, put your handbrake on, car in gear, and try to turn the drive shaft, if there is any play in your uni replace it. You should feel the uni "clunk" as you try to rotate the shaft.
Layto....
true to turn the drive shaft and got no movement. what eles could be clunking.
tcase mounts are fine
Dont roll the car forward in gear, as by taking up the slack you are removing any slack that the uni's may be creating.
Layto....
[quote="v840"]Just between me and you, I actually really dig the Megatwon, but if anyone asks, I'm going to shitcan it as much as possible! :D[/quote]
I have the same problem. In my particular case I can exclude the uni's which are in good condition according to a drive-shaft specialist during a recent balance.
My problem is most pronounced when changing between drive and reverse (auto) where the whole car jumps and clunks. The only other time I've seen this was in a 5ltr XF ute with a shagged diff from too many wheelies, after it was replaced with another ford rear axle and diff problem gone.
Add to that the annoying and loud hum at 85 to 95 K's that has appeared after my OME lift, the regular thin slivers of metal on my diff plug my money is on my pinion bearing (as per Steve) or spider-gears (as per crackatinny).
Edit: Just re-read this thread and decided the title should be changed to "Clunk when I take off Support Group"
My problem is most pronounced when changing between drive and reverse (auto) where the whole car jumps and clunks. The only other time I've seen this was in a 5ltr XF ute with a shagged diff from too many wheelies, after it was replaced with another ford rear axle and diff problem gone.
Add to that the annoying and loud hum at 85 to 95 K's that has appeared after my OME lift, the regular thin slivers of metal on my diff plug my money is on my pinion bearing (as per Steve) or spider-gears (as per crackatinny).
Edit: Just re-read this thread and decided the title should be changed to "Clunk when I take off Support Group"
Last edited by PCRman on Thu May 01, 2008 3:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Backyard or workshop... much the same and relatively easy.. now i know the tricks anyway.nicbeer wrote:whats the easist diy or backyard way to change unis?
Kitika - which end did u use? and is it the same as the zook pattern.
i have a half from a zook rear here missing the other bit
http://www.pointnshoot.org/modules.php? ... =0&thold=0
Spock
www.pointnshoot.org
Suzuki Auto Spares Springwood
Century Batteries
Sylverkey
Extreme Coatings
Control Synergy
Suzuki Auto Spares Springwood
Century Batteries
Sylverkey
Extreme Coatings
Control Synergy
PCRman - You're a vitara, yes? Check the condition of the ball joint on the top of the rear diff. Wear in this will cause a serious clunk.
Steve.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
Had a feel when I was fitting the 50ml Ali spacer, seemed okay, nice and firm, no slop. Might get the Mrs to shift between D and R while I watch underneath. It might show if there is play in the joint that wasn't apparent when I had it disconnected.Gwagensteve wrote:PCRman - You're a vitara, yes? Check the condition of the ball joint on the top of the rear diff. Wear in this will cause a serious clunk.
Steve.
Cheers
Adam
There's a mob on eBay who sell them for $44 + shipping for the pair...lay80n wrote:Sierra uni's are easily obtained from most parts places, and are an easy job to change. To those that are having clunks, put your handbrake on, car in gear, and try to turn the drive shaft, if there is any play in your uni replace it. You should feel the uni "clunk" as you try to rotate the shaft.
Layto....
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest