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rubber to wire
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
rubber to wire
im making some mud guards for a buggy, with a wire mesh frame, and rubber sheet over the top.
what methods are there for joining the 2 together? i did think about epoxy or resin, but i dont want it to be brittle else it will just need constant repair when it gets knocked about. a glue of some sort would be preferable, but it needs to be abit flexible... any ideas?
cheers
Macca
what methods are there for joining the 2 together? i did think about epoxy or resin, but i dont want it to be brittle else it will just need constant repair when it gets knocked about. a glue of some sort would be preferable, but it needs to be abit flexible... any ideas?
cheers
Macca
[quote="Barnsey"]
Bronwyn Bishop does it for me.[/quote]
Bronwyn Bishop does it for me.[/quote]
What a mad bug!! Takes the word Buggy to a new level, doesn't it
Or else the gbox is the wrong way around
Those tyres look like paddles
Yeah, Sika or some types of silicone will give some bend if needed.. just try it and see i guess. Can always resort to cable ties if needed, wonderful things


Those tyres look like paddles

Yeah, Sika or some types of silicone will give some bend if needed.. just try it and see i guess. Can always resort to cable ties if needed, wonderful things

[quote="RockyF70 - Coming out of the closet"]i'd be rushing out and buying an IFS rocky[/quote]
Contact adhesive to a seperate sheet of thinner rubber underneath the wire mesh, sandwich style. Clark Rubber would have some edging you could stick around the perimeter to stop it delaminating. Metal rivets with washers in the spaces of the mesh near the perimeter would look cool in addition to the above...
Last edited by DamTriton on Wed Mar 26, 2008 2:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.
George Carlin, an American Comedian said; "Think of how stupid the average person is, and realise that half of them are stupider than that".
Don't shoot me , what about you straighten the mesh back flat , get a piece of rubber and fold it over so you have rubber on both sides , then glue it together and place it between two boards to keep it flat and thin , then refold it and you have a smooth rubber edge on the outside , also easier to clean , Cheers Paul.
BLOWNZUK 1.3 efi,sc14 supercharger,hilux diffs,detroit lockers,stage 4 rockhopper,6 point cage,35 muddies.
mudbash in victoria.ofr57 wrote: does tassy scout come up to banana bash or do you's have your own ?
we cant go to banana bash as only qld crews can enter. if we wanted to do that we would need to get another crew in qld to register our buggy as theirs.(and then we would feel obliged to let them drive

[quote="Barnsey"]
Bronwyn Bishop does it for me.[/quote]
Bronwyn Bishop does it for me.[/quote]
MART wrote:Don't shoot me , what about you straighten the mesh back flat , get a piece of rubber and fold it over so you have rubber on both sides , then glue it together and place it between two boards to keep it flat and thin , then refold it and you have a smooth rubber edge on the outside , also easier to clean , Cheers Paul.
its a nice idea, but with the shape ov the VW guards, it took forever to get the shape right as it was... mite give it a go in the bent form tho...
[quote="Barnsey"]
Bronwyn Bishop does it for me.[/quote]
Bronwyn Bishop does it for me.[/quote]
AdrianGQ wrote:loctite 401 is a contact adhesive that would do the job but it would be a pain to do
and if you do use it do not stick your fingers together cos they wont come appart
yea iv used loctite 401 heaps! (my step father gets it free from work) and its a PITA to get off ya hands (but a whole heap of fun when ya lend it to someone who has never used it before!!!) i hadnt thought about using this, tho it could work, even if only for 'tack welding' it while i sikaflex or however i end up doing it...
[quote="Barnsey"]
Bronwyn Bishop does it for me.[/quote]
Bronwyn Bishop does it for me.[/quote]
m
SIKAFLEX! 

cheers Dan
Licenced Carpenter
I do everything, free quotes
Brisbane west/Ipswich/rural
PM me
Licenced Carpenter
I do everything, free quotes
Brisbane west/Ipswich/rural
PM me
Go the SIKAFLEX
do some testing with a couple of scraps of mesh and rubber.
Most glues wont work coz of the small surface area of the mesh. Sikaflex will ooze around the mesh, get your fingers into it and smoooth it to the rubber and around the mesh.
cleans off fingers well while its fresh with 'Poly Wipes' paint removal wipes
Wont look pretty underneath!

do some testing with a couple of scraps of mesh and rubber.
Most glues wont work coz of the small surface area of the mesh. Sikaflex will ooze around the mesh, get your fingers into it and smoooth it to the rubber and around the mesh.
cleans off fingers well while its fresh with 'Poly Wipes' paint removal wipes
Wont look pretty underneath!
RN wrote:pussy is out, its the log for me... Thank you Jesus.
Better not to get it on your fingers as it can have unhealthy side effects in some people.80's_delirious wrote:Go the SIKAFLEX
get your fingers into it and smoooth it to the rubber and around the mesh.
cleans off fingers well while its fresh with 'Poly Wipes' paint removal wipes
Surgical rubber gloves are recommended and only a few dollars for a box full.
At first I thought this might not be something so wide, but that mesh is about 15cm wide, be quite easy to bend or simply rip it off the side.
Wouldn't a sheet of 2mm steel bent to 30 deg on the front and back then fold the outer edge down be better for the longer term?
you could pot rivit that into the body panels, by folding the inner edge up.
Wouldn't a sheet of 2mm steel bent to 30 deg on the front and back then fold the outer edge down be better for the longer term?
you could pot rivit that into the body panels, by folding the inner edge up.
zagan wrote:At first I thought this might not be something so wide, but that mesh is about 15cm wide, be quite easy to bend or simply rip it off the side.
Wouldn't a sheet of 2mm steel bent to 30 deg on the front and back then fold the outer edge down be better for the longer term?
you could pot rivit that into the body panels, by folding the inner edge up.
put simply, no.
these guards bolt on in the standard bolt holes in the VW, and they are only on long enuf to compete in one even a year, just need to pass CAMS, the rest of the year its driven with no guards as they get in the way on the trails. also, 2mm steel will start doing damage to the body panels when it hits things, the mesh will have give(hence why i want a flexible adhesive solution). and it definatly wont be ripped of the side! we had 4 of us pulling on it rather hard just to check

so im thinking sikaflex, with maybe DAMKIA's idea with the pop rivets along the edge would be the way to go. (there will be another strip of rubber on the underside lust along the edges to keep it looking neat, about 25mm wide, so the look of the sika underneath isnt to much ov a worry. and as said before, its not a permanent thing, so its not crucial that it looks awsome.
[quote="Barnsey"]
Bronwyn Bishop does it for me.[/quote]
Bronwyn Bishop does it for me.[/quote]
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