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removing front tie rod end on a fj45

Tech Talk for Cruiser owners.

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removing front tie rod end on a fj45

Post by fj45304 »

i started trying to remove the front r/h side tie rod and bought a ball joint tall belted few times and tried crc wont move any ideas
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Post by nads »

heat

oxy, or propane might do it.
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Post by tuff 45 »

Bigger hammer :D
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Post by BEE-JAY »

No seriously a bigger hammer, use a least a 4 pound lump hammer at a minimum, and try to hit the oppisite the rod (if that makes any sense).
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Post by Bumpy45 »

Get a good quality screw type remover, not one from super cheap or the like. Paid $100 from Tool city. Works a treat. If you want to continue with the hammer style, then leave the nut on but half threaded, drive the remover on but have a bigger hammer on the other side of the ball joint, if it still won't come off then with the spreader still tighly in place whack the outer edge of the tapered section with 2 hammers from 2 sides similtaneously. If it doesn't work do it all again but harder until it does. When you assemble it put anti sieze on the taper.
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Post by Zeyphly »

Yep big hammer. two are better than one !
03 turbo twin cab hilux + 85 xtra cab 253, Have i ever said i love lockers?
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Post by Sic Lux »

These work a treat can get them from ripco and you can load them up with this then hit them if there not budging
http://www.ausauto.com/product_detail/6 ... arator.htm
plenty of parts on the bench
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Post by sambo »

try also holding a big heavy weight on the other side of the tie rod when you hit it. Something like a lump of steel.
05 Manual HDJ100R
84 HJ60 w/12HT, twin locked with longfields
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Post by 80's_delirious »

Sic Lux wrote:These work a treat can get them from ripco and you can load them up with this then hit them if there not budging
http://www.ausauto.com/product_detail/6 ... arator.htm
I broke two of these on my 80series :bad-words: :bad-words:

Ended up using a pitman arm puller

http://www.hooks.com.tw/detail/118610/118610.html
RN wrote:pussy is out, its the log for me... Thank you Jesus.
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Post by BEE-JAY »

Maybe I'm missing something here but I change these almost daily with only a hammer. Hit the loop on the end of the swivel housing arm. Give it a good belt with a lump hammer and it will pop straight out not worries.
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Post by 80's_delirious »

BEE-JAY wrote:Maybe I'm missing something here but I change these almost daily with only a hammer. Hit the loop on the end of the swivel housing arm. Give it a good belt with a lump hammer and it will pop straight out not worries.
I was told by my bro (smash repairer) that older cars had rediculously (sp?) high torque settings specified on tie rod end tapers, newer cars dont get tightened any where near as tight and should pop out easy with just a hammer. Dont know if this is correct but it has been my experience with my own cars.
RN wrote:pussy is out, its the log for me... Thank you Jesus.
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Post by BEE-JAY »

The tighter the joint the bigger the shock has to be that's all. I use this technique to pop the tapers on semi's when the nut has been torqued to 500NM, Of course this requires a much larger hammer. I'm the first person who will advise against just randomly belting stuff with a hammer, but you won't hurt anything and it is the only way to do it with out a good quality tool.
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Post by Sic Lux »

80's_delirious wrote:
Sic Lux wrote:These work a treat can get them from ripco and you can load them up with this then hit them if there not budging
http://www.ausauto.com/product_detail/6 ... arator.htm
I broke two of these on my 80series :bad-words: :bad-words:

Ended up using a pitman arm puller

http://www.hooks.com.tw/detail/118610/118610.html
Yeah thats the other type you can get have 1 of each but tha style are stronger just can't always get them in places you need to.
plenty of parts on the bench
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