Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
Should I get a F or R locker first on my GQ ?
Should I get a F or R locker first on my GQ ?
I am considering to install a locker on my GQ td42 lwb. I am wondering should I get a Front locker or rear locker first. As if I get a rear one, it may go better charging uphill as most of weight of whole car is at the back. But I waste the LSD.
If I get the F Locker, i can keep the LSD but it may still can't grip as good as the rear.
Any opinion would be appreciate please.
If I get the F Locker, i can keep the LSD but it may still can't grip as good as the rear.
Any opinion would be appreciate please.
[
Anyway do the front diff first as your LSD is still good and does work unlike some other scrottiless car maker.......
Anyway do the front diff first as your LSD is still good and does work unlike some other scrottiless car maker.......
Last edited by Singo17 on Tue Nov 26, 2002 10:11 am, edited 1 time in total.
Official member of the Babinda Jimmy James Beam III Fan Club
Darth Bobo Honker Hunter Inc, for the up gunned Poodlefaker.
:armsup:"ARMS UP":armsup:
Darth Bobo Honker Hunter Inc, for the up gunned Poodlefaker.
:armsup:"ARMS UP":armsup:
Why not swap the LSD to the front and put the Locker in the rear? For a little more cost (an hour labour?) you have the ARB where it can do more good, and the LSD in the front which would be a little easier on the CVs.
My $0.02
Ben
My $0.02
Ben
74 FJ40, 307, Hilux DBC, 35 Claws, welded rear.
'''_ ______
'/|_[_____]__
|?[_L/-\_|o=o|_
?:__;-?__-,==,_
()_)O()_)O== )_)
'''_ ______
'/|_[_____]__
|?[_L/-\_|o=o|_
?:__;-?__-,==,_
()_)O()_)O== )_)
Re: Should I get a F or R locker first on my GQ ?
I had an arb airlocker in the front of my gq for ages,gave it heaps,very rarely had to get towed out.Put one in the front first and later on u can put one in the rear.
air lockers
put the locker in the front and get the limo tightend up about 20 thou,works as good as a locker,i done mine and i love it,havent worried about the back......try it is easy to do
Bretto
Bretto
This may be a bit of the topic though, but some readers might think it's an idea.
I have free wheeling hubs on the front at the moment, so if i lock the front myself-(by welding them) and have the hubs on (free), will both wheels on the front be constanly spinning or they're work on their own, though if i have it on (lock) they will be a gem
^^^^^-NO NEED FOR AIR LOCKERS IF THEY WORK
I have free wheeling hubs on the front at the moment, so if i lock the front myself-(by welding them) and have the hubs on (free), will both wheels on the front be constanly spinning or they're work on their own, though if i have it on (lock) they will be a gem
^^^^^-NO NEED FOR AIR LOCKERS IF THEY WORK
Ok,
Weld the centre and you lock the diff (both axles/wheels turn at the same time).
If you unlock one side the other side will still be fully locked.
If you unlock both sides niether side has any drive, meaning that you are now in two wheel drive.
The ARB will allow you to turn it on and off, when you turn it off the front diff goes back to open centre( meaning you still have drive to the front, but when one tyre loses traction the other will spin, this is back to how it is at the moment).
You will find that most guys run the ARB as it allows them to save there CV's.
When you have the front fully locked and you are standing on the power or turning a sharp turn you WILL bust CV's like there going out of fashion.
To prevent this most guys turn the locker off when they are in that situation, if you weld the front than you would have to hop out all the time.
If you were looking at saving money, Weld the rear (rear hilux will take the abuse from a welded centre) and save up for a ARB for the front.
IF you really want a locker in the front and cant afford a ARB then try a lockright, if not weld it but drive carfully as you are bound to pop CV's
Weld the centre and you lock the diff (both axles/wheels turn at the same time).
If you unlock one side the other side will still be fully locked.
If you unlock both sides niether side has any drive, meaning that you are now in two wheel drive.
The ARB will allow you to turn it on and off, when you turn it off the front diff goes back to open centre( meaning you still have drive to the front, but when one tyre loses traction the other will spin, this is back to how it is at the moment).
You will find that most guys run the ARB as it allows them to save there CV's.
When you have the front fully locked and you are standing on the power or turning a sharp turn you WILL bust CV's like there going out of fashion.
To prevent this most guys turn the locker off when they are in that situation, if you weld the front than you would have to hop out all the time.
If you were looking at saving money, Weld the rear (rear hilux will take the abuse from a welded centre) and save up for a ARB for the front.
IF you really want a locker in the front and cant afford a ARB then try a lockright, if not weld it but drive carfully as you are bound to pop CV's
If you can, slap the LSD in the front, and the ARB in the back. When on read, you'll be in conventional rear wheel drive with an open diff, when off, you'll have the rear spool (ARB locked), and the front LSD, which some argue is far better (and easier on the axle parts) than a full locker.
I think you will get the best of both worlds.
I think you will get the best of both worlds.
LR Disco truggy:
42" Iroks, ZF, dual cases & ARBs, 30 splined, Longfielded, OMEs, Optimas, M8274-50s, Rockstomper rope & Bead-L
LR D-90 TD5 ST:
33" BFT AT, tuned, caged, 1/2 top
42" Iroks, ZF, dual cases & ARBs, 30 splined, Longfielded, OMEs, Optimas, M8274-50s, Rockstomper rope & Bead-L
LR D-90 TD5 ST:
33" BFT AT, tuned, caged, 1/2 top
disco dino, the diffs are different front and back,
You can put a rear MQ lsd in the front of a GQ but you have to fit the GQ gears to it and the crown wheel bolt holes are a different size and PCD.
You can put a rear MQ lsd in the front of a GQ but you have to fit the GQ gears to it and the crown wheel bolt holes are a different size and PCD.
[url=http://bigred.redbubble.com/][color=red][b]You can follow me but its gunna hurt ![/b][/color][/url]
event pics http://bigred.redbubble.com/
event pics http://bigred.redbubble.com/
I just checked the ARB website to get to know which lockers to order for my 2002 GU. I hen realised that they are different.
I think I got too used to the Rover with the same Rover diffs front and rear...
Anywaysm then I guess, I would suggest getting the ARB for the front, and wait for an ARB in the rear. (If he can sell the LSD and get 1/2 the price of the rear ARB, then that would be great)
Just out of curiosity, what rear axles do I have on my 2002 GU 2 door ('shorty') with the 4.1 R&P, Disc Brakes, 5 speed manual, and 4.5 Carb???
Thanks, and goodluck...
I think I got too used to the Rover with the same Rover diffs front and rear...
Anywaysm then I guess, I would suggest getting the ARB for the front, and wait for an ARB in the rear. (If he can sell the LSD and get 1/2 the price of the rear ARB, then that would be great)
Just out of curiosity, what rear axles do I have on my 2002 GU 2 door ('shorty') with the 4.1 R&P, Disc Brakes, 5 speed manual, and 4.5 Carb???
Thanks, and goodluck...
LR Disco truggy:
42" Iroks, ZF, dual cases & ARBs, 30 splined, Longfielded, OMEs, Optimas, M8274-50s, Rockstomper rope & Bead-L
LR D-90 TD5 ST:
33" BFT AT, tuned, caged, 1/2 top
42" Iroks, ZF, dual cases & ARBs, 30 splined, Longfielded, OMEs, Optimas, M8274-50s, Rockstomper rope & Bead-L
LR D-90 TD5 ST:
33" BFT AT, tuned, caged, 1/2 top
you sure you got 4.1's, the wagons have 3.9's.
check the aluminium I.D. plate, the last two numbers on "transaxle code" tell you the diff ratio, eg: 46= 4.625, 43= 4.375, 41= 4.111, 39= 3.900, 35=3.545
Not 100% sure but may be the big one [h260]
my transaxle code reads FS5R50B HG41 and i have the 5 speed manual with the small [h233b] diff with 4.111 ratio.
hope that helps.
check the aluminium I.D. plate, the last two numbers on "transaxle code" tell you the diff ratio, eg: 46= 4.625, 43= 4.375, 41= 4.111, 39= 3.900, 35=3.545
Not 100% sure but may be the big one [h260]
my transaxle code reads FS5R50B HG41 and i have the 5 speed manual with the small [h233b] diff with 4.111 ratio.
hope that helps.
[url=http://bigred.redbubble.com/][color=red][b]You can follow me but its gunna hurt ![/b][/color][/url]
event pics http://bigred.redbubble.com/
event pics http://bigred.redbubble.com/
Great info, Big Red...
I'll crawl under it during the weekend to know exactly what I have, but I am sure I have the 4.1s.
Thanks again...
I'll crawl under it during the weekend to know exactly what I have, but I am sure I have the 4.1s.
Thanks again...
LR Disco truggy:
42" Iroks, ZF, dual cases & ARBs, 30 splined, Longfielded, OMEs, Optimas, M8274-50s, Rockstomper rope & Bead-L
LR D-90 TD5 ST:
33" BFT AT, tuned, caged, 1/2 top
42" Iroks, ZF, dual cases & ARBs, 30 splined, Longfielded, OMEs, Optimas, M8274-50s, Rockstomper rope & Bead-L
LR D-90 TD5 ST:
33" BFT AT, tuned, caged, 1/2 top
Shane & all others
I checked my GU 4.5 Petrol 12/98 and it has the transaxle code ending in HH41 with the H260 (big) diff (I am fairly sure of this). My gearbox code is the same, but it does have different ratios in it I think to the Turbo diesel.
All petrol GU in Aust were EFI, GQ's post about 92 were EFI also on the TB42 motors.
All the best
I checked my GU 4.5 Petrol 12/98 and it has the transaxle code ending in HH41 with the H260 (big) diff (I am fairly sure of this). My gearbox code is the same, but it does have different ratios in it I think to the Turbo diesel.
All petrol GU in Aust were EFI, GQ's post about 92 were EFI also on the TB42 motors.
All the best
-----
Ian
GU 4500 Petrol, 35s, Gearmaster, front lawns and fire trails only....
Ian
GU 4500 Petrol, 35s, Gearmaster, front lawns and fire trails only....
ok...
Crawled under the hood... ...and saw "FS5R50B" for the trans, and axle is HG41. So I guess I have the same set-up as Big Red.
So what is the difference between HG and the HH rear axles? spline count? Ring & Pinion diameter?...
So do I have the same diffs front and rear, I read somewhere that the front diff is a 31 spline count and the rear 33? so is the "big" HH a 38?
Thanks for the info.
Oh, and the engine is a TB45 (S), I am sure it is carburated, since it has a nice growl to it, and I like the idea of having such simplicity where my leatherman can fix almost everything...
Cheers
Crawled under the hood... ...and saw "FS5R50B" for the trans, and axle is HG41. So I guess I have the same set-up as Big Red.
So what is the difference between HG and the HH rear axles? spline count? Ring & Pinion diameter?...
So do I have the same diffs front and rear, I read somewhere that the front diff is a 31 spline count and the rear 33? so is the "big" HH a 38?
Thanks for the info.
Oh, and the engine is a TB45 (S), I am sure it is carburated, since it has a nice growl to it, and I like the idea of having such simplicity where my leatherman can fix almost everything...
Cheers
LR Disco truggy:
42" Iroks, ZF, dual cases & ARBs, 30 splined, Longfielded, OMEs, Optimas, M8274-50s, Rockstomper rope & Bead-L
LR D-90 TD5 ST:
33" BFT AT, tuned, caged, 1/2 top
42" Iroks, ZF, dual cases & ARBs, 30 splined, Longfielded, OMEs, Optimas, M8274-50s, Rockstomper rope & Bead-L
LR D-90 TD5 ST:
33" BFT AT, tuned, caged, 1/2 top
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 120 guests