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well on friday i was driving in the arvo coming home from work in the rain. there was a truck in front of me. i took a glance down a my speedo for a bit to long cause it was a school zone, when i looked back up i was 2metres a way from a stopped truck. i hit the braked but barley slowed down plowing into the back of it at about 40 kph.
i took a nice hit on the drivers side of the car stopping in my tracks. luckly didn 't suffer from any major damage to myself other that some pretty bad whiplash.
The question that i am asking is what should i do with whats left with my car? i am not insured so since i was at fault they wont cover me. so part it out, new body, replace the whole front of the car. i really dont know what i should do. i dont have much money and i am just about to turn second year apprentice carpenter.
Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated and taken on board cause at the moment ive got nothing.
That sucks! It's always hard when this cr@p happens.
In picture 3 I can see the chassis has a dent, could have put the chassis out of square, but hard to tell without measuring diagonals. I can email you the info if you require. The body may even be the same, check for gaps around windscreen rubber and RH door gaps.
It is a write-off, as you could get a straight stocker for less than the repair cost in the private market. Then transfer your good stuff to the stocker, then sell the rest in bits or whole, as-is.
If you want to repair it, you will need a good friend that is a panel beater for mates rates or it isn't worth it!
it doesnt really look like the chassis has been bent. If so, you could get another front clip off another 4runner, and whack that on. New rad, shroud etc and she'll be right.
My bro's lux has a slightly bent chassis from a much smaller hit - i'd say yours is bent in some way. If it is i'd get another one with stuffed drivetrain (would cost next to nothing) and swap all the good shit over. Replacing the front clip may cost more when you factor in painting and possibly chassis straightening - and it may never drive the same again.
just before the crash happened i paid a speeding fine which in a month or so i will lose my licence for 3months so i probably have about 4 months to sort this out. the excess is 1100 which i dont have at the moment. my boss has already said that he can get me to and from wotk every day. say if i where to part it out and start off fresh with a car with a bit more ability what should i be expecting to get for it and what are the chances me getting rid of it in a month or 2? If i fix it up it might end up costing me more than its worth.
so grab some of your mates and have a weekend of fixing... panels are cheap for a hilux if you search (never take the first place you look, or the 3rd for that matter, a little homework/ research for free on the net (www.findapart.com.au is one of the best i have found to be quick and very decent price) can find your panels for stuff all) you might even get the same colour so its bolt on.... do NOT SELL IT and then buy another one for cheaper or the same price only to mod it to the same spec as what you had for twice the money you spent in the first place, let alone your planed future mods on top of that.
its very easy done both timewise and little cost if you look around.
cheers mark
Mud4b/ OPT, Cheap rates, Not cheap work. Search Opt- option offroad on facebook. Call or Sms 0439609525.. Sunshine coast, Eudlo, 4554.
I'd be getting a stock one and transferring all your goods accross to it.
I had a 4runner with a cracked chassis. (Of course I didn't realise it had one when I bought it) But I sold it for next to nothing and bought a different car and spent money on it and so on and so forth.
Hindsight tells me I definitely should have got another 4runner the same model so I have all my goods to use and spares of what didnt get smashed.
Ozkor Auto Tech - 51 Orchard Road, Brookvale
1997 HZJ75 - 2" Springs, 33" MTZs, Touring Rig with more toys to come!
buggerific- it only has a sterio and a lift kit? so you would be better just fixing it..
i was there to tow it in, and i hooked a snatch up to the frontrad support ect pulled it out, dropped the rad outa it and removed the non necesitties and the donk fired first kick.. i think the front clip and mates round to help iedea is the way to go.. wich ever way ya go joe ill give ya a hand. Cheers.
Single cab 106r - BBP Turbo 3rz
*Boondal Backyard Performance*
to me that looks like abit of hammer n dolly n slide hammer work, go to all crash parts or mark gibbs panel house, buy some shitty tai gaurds n a rad support, grab the bonnet n grill off killalux, take ur time and line it all up(takes forever!) then tak it in place give it a hit of paint n ur back on the road, alot cheaper option than getting a new one...drive it n see how it drives, if u dont like it sell it off.
Mate yeah by the looks of its just a flesh woond. Even where the bullbar bolts onto the chassis looks fairly straight. So you say your going to lose your licence so you have 4 months! In this case i would get the parts needed and fix the old girl ready by the time you get your license back. Look on the bright side, the money you save on fuel for the next 4 months will probly be more then enough to cover the repair bill, so i recon you will either break even or still be infront money wise .
Good to hear no one was hurt thats all that matters, Keep us posted buddy.
Troy
GXL HDJ80 Cruiser - Lifted, Locked, 315's, 3" Zorst, Safari Intercooled, High Flowed Turbo, All the fruit. AMMS tuned coal shovel, Pushing 148rwhp... + heaps of the black sooty goodness...
yeah thanks vSAHARAx got a good dose of whiplash but aint going to stop me. yeah it is very thirsty. i go through about 120 a week in petrol. and it only gets me about 500 km. so i will be saving 1/3rd of my pay as a first year, but i turn 2nd in a month so evnen better. luckly i had that bullbar on it probably saved me alot more damage then i recieved (dan). The main thinng is that i have no money at the moment and i have a excess to pay. Its going to be a while before i get any progress/money my way to get it started. would it be easyer and cheaper just to do a front cut then get it panel beated ? How easy is it to get hold of a front cut for a 92 4runner and how hard is it to do the transplant? and what should i be expecting it to cost me?
thanks for all the help guys.
Tough luck mate, i nearly cleaned up a little excel in the troopy in the rain on saturday.
panel beating will cost bout $70 an hour. Could be over 10 hours work there not too sure, but definately not the cheapest option if you're un-insured.
I'd be getting a front panels of another car and hacking into each night after work for the next 4 months (you might even enjoy it), new regos are such hassles.
At first I thought it was a sea anemone, upon closer inspection I realised it was a funky ball of tits from outer space.
There was a car turning infront of the truck which stopped the flow of traffic and the truck which was a medium sized courier truck was up it arse so when i hit the truck i pushed it forward into the car infront of it unfortunatly. the truck had a broken tail light and a small dint on the back and the bumper on the front fell of. The car in front of it was a wagon and the whole back of it was push in. i never really liked driving in the rain and probably never will my car dosen't stop very well. im going to start looking for a front half transplant i think, hopefully i can pick one for a good price.
Last edited by joey2389 on Mon Mar 31, 2008 6:57 pm, edited 1 time in total.
joey2389 wrote:There was a car turning infront of the truck which stopped the flow of traffic and the truck which was a medium sized courier truck was up it arse so when i hit the truck i pushed it forward into the car infront of it unfortunatly.
Have you spoke with your insurance company regarding this? As far as im aware if he hit the car in front that is his problem not yours. Regardless of you hitting him.
v6hilux wrote:The easiest is a Cut and Shut, through the floor pan under the front seats and windscreen A pillars.
Would be relatively easy, since you already have a jig (your chassis)!
It needs a radiator support panel and about an hours worth of hammer and dolly work on the inner guard. Doing a half cut is defianatly not the easy option.
yeah i spoke to the insurance company they said i will only be coverd if the truck hit the car infront of it and thats what caused me to crash into the truck but unfortunatly it wasn't the case. here is a pic of the damage on the drivers side wheel arch and where it joins to the front panel.
joey2389 wrote:yeah i spoke to the insurance company they said i will only be coverd if the truck hit the car infront of it and thats what caused me to crash into the truck but unfortunatly it wasn't the case. here is a pic of the damage on the drivers side wheel arch and where it joins to the front panel.
would this be fixable?
What im saying is that although you should be liable to any damage caused to the rear of the truck you shouldnt be liable for damage caused to the front of the truck. He is at fault for stopping too close to the vehicle in front. If you were in a school zone you were only doing 40ks. He must have either been real close to the car in front or was sitting there with no brake on.
Worst case repair would be a radiator support and RH skirt if you could not pull the inner guard forward.
RUFF wrote:It needs a radiator support panel and about an hours worth of hammer and dolly work on the inner guard.
Joey, please get back to us with how that advice from RUFF the panel beater goes!
I'm especially interested in how you straighten the upper sub frame, (where the guard upper bolts go), and how high it is compared to the other side before you start.
I would also be interested in pictures of the door gap between the front and rear doors. Also a good picture of the front door gap to A pillar to see if it is even all the way from top to bottom.
RUFF wrote:It needs a radiator support panel and about an hours worth of hammer and dolly work on the inner guard.
Joey, please get back to us with how that advice from RUFF the panel beater goes!
I'm especially interested in how you straighten the upper sub frame, (where the guard upper bolts go), and how high it is compared to the other side before you start.
I would also be interested in pictures of the door gap between the front and rear doors. Also a good picture of the front door gap to A pillar to see if it is even all the way from top to bottom.
Or you could just take advise from a train driver that is telling you to cut and shut your vehicle through structural members which is now illegal in most states if not all in Australia.
My father is a Panel beater and Spray Painter with 40 years experiance working for himself. Other than driving trucks it just happens I make a living out of buying and repairing damaged 1988-97 Toyota Hilux 2WDs. That repair is less than 2 days start to finish with paint for someone experianced in smashed panel work.
Just do a front cut with the body 4 months is plenty of time.
Look on the bright side, the money you save on fuel for the next 4 months will probly be more then enough to cover the repair bill, so i recon you will either break even or still be infront money wise 
.
