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4" suspension lift 4.4 2 dr rangie
Moderator: Micka
4" suspension lift 4.4 2 dr rangie
Hi im wanting to lift my rangie 4" but im struggling to find anyone that does any higher than a 2". Does anyone know if anyone does a kit or anyone know what else will fit my aim is 35's but need more travel
funny everyone seesm to have an opinion on this, some say yes and some say no. I personally don't like spring lifts too tall so I would choose the body lift option.
The LRA kit is good but $$$, but like most his stuff you know you'll get a comprehensive body lift kit out of it
Trav
The LRA kit is good but $$$, but like most his stuff you know you'll get a comprehensive body lift kit out of it
Trav
Land Rover- The Collingwood of 4WD's!!!!
I suspect that if you choose to lift the body 4" that you will run into other problems like:
1.The steering column shaft will need to be replaced with a longer unit - You can just get away with a 2 1/2" lift and keep the original steering components.
2. Lengthened seat belt anchors.
3. not sure how your fan/radiator and hoses will line up for airflow etc
4. anything else mounted to the body but connected by hose or wire to something on the drive chain/engine/gearbox/transfer case - you can usually get away with about 50mm of stretch but 100 is a LOT.
5. check things like the 'throw' of your gear lever and transfer lever. They will sink 4" down into the floor. You can extend them but when you go to use them they will need a bigger hole to move about in.
I'd suggest the 50mm spring lift and 65mm body lift.
You'll also find people that swear by 4" taller springs and NO body lift.
Good luck
1.The steering column shaft will need to be replaced with a longer unit - You can just get away with a 2 1/2" lift and keep the original steering components.
2. Lengthened seat belt anchors.
3. not sure how your fan/radiator and hoses will line up for airflow etc
4. anything else mounted to the body but connected by hose or wire to something on the drive chain/engine/gearbox/transfer case - you can usually get away with about 50mm of stretch but 100 is a LOT.
5. check things like the 'throw' of your gear lever and transfer lever. They will sink 4" down into the floor. You can extend them but when you go to use them they will need a bigger hole to move about in.
I'd suggest the 50mm spring lift and 65mm body lift.
You'll also find people that swear by 4" taller springs and NO body lift.
Good luck
Toy 100 series now with a few mods
Disco1 with lots of mods - lift, locked and loaded. (sold)
Disco1 with lots of mods - lift, locked and loaded. (sold)
He means 4" suspension RalphDisco1Modified wrote:I suspect that if you choose to lift the body 4" that you will run into other problems like:
1.The steering column shaft will need to be replaced with a longer unit - You can just get away with a 2 1/2" lift and keep the original steering components.
2. Lengthened seat belt anchors.
3. not sure how your fan/radiator and hoses will line up for airflow etc
4. anything else mounted to the body but connected by hose or wire to something on the drive chain/engine/gearbox/transfer case - you can usually get away with about 50mm of stretch but 100 is a LOT.
5. check things like the 'throw' of your gear lever and transfer lever. They will sink 4" down into the floor. You can extend them but when you go to use them they will need a bigger hole to move about in.
I'd suggest the 50mm spring lift and 65mm body lift.
You'll also find people that swear by 4" taller springs and NO body lift.
Good luck
Wanted: Car trailer or beaver tail truck, let me know what you got
here's one I prepared earlier ....
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-rides ... e-joy.html
I know mine is a disco and you're talking Rangie's but it may give you an idea of what is involved
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-rides ... e-joy.html
I know mine is a disco and you're talking Rangie's but it may give you an idea of what is involved
Toy 100 series now with a few mods
Disco1 with lots of mods - lift, locked and loaded. (sold)
Disco1 with lots of mods - lift, locked and loaded. (sold)
I'd reccomend retaining springs, upper and lower, front and rear.Ye Olde Rangie wrote:ill get some pics of this disco on soon it looks pretty good we imported the flares ourselves and bonnet pod just gotta get it running and then the stripping starts for the cage and 36's. But any one running 4"springs on a rangie do you have to use spring relocators or trap them to the body??
Bloody hell thats some flex! wonder how you go with shockies?
Im in a pickle to find suitable rear shocks for mine.. think I need extended mounts (anyone know where to get them) broke a shock the other day as think it compressed too much
Cheers
Camo
Im in a pickle to find suitable rear shocks for mine.. think I need extended mounts (anyone know where to get them) broke a shock the other day as think it compressed too much
Cheers
Camo
1994 Range Rover Soft Dash, Rear ARB Locker, 33's, 2" body & Spring, custom bits
2004 Range Rover Diesel 20" wheels. My Black Beauty:-)
2004 Range Rover Diesel 20" wheels. My Black Beauty:-)
It's true but the front axle give me stabilityGRIMACE wrote:nice flex, but IMO it's way un balanced front to rear
Looking rangie buddy
I'm using made home relocators and I never had problem for the momentYe Olde Rangie wrote:yeah heaps of travel but the springs never go back where they should i only jack my car up and the spring moves surely you have to use spring relocaters
wait and see
def90 wrote:hy prosper,
the front axle looks pretty level there, any pics of the front flex?
sorry for the poor quality.....mobile photo....with my winter tyres 38,5/11,5/15
still home made...but without a big body lift you can't do that...V8 Rangie wrote:Bloody hell thats some flex! wonder how you go with shockies?
Im in a pickle to find suitable rear shocks for mine.. think I need extended mounts (anyone know where to get them) broke a shock the other day as think it compressed too much
Cheers
Camo
GQ or GU shocks are smaller than range shocksYe Olde Rangie wrote:cant you get rear shocks off of a gu or gq theyre much longer? if your still running rangie shocks you can buy fitting kits to convert the adaptors
+2" GQ are the same of original range shocks
I'm using GQ axle on my range, so I have the rear diff lockReddo wrote:WTF why would you need that amount of rear or front travel? Looks speccy but I wonder about stability on side slopes etc. Diff locks may be a better option......amazing achievement though - reminds me of cranky's cruiser:)
and front axle help me in slide slopes
My GQ rears (kones) are the same travel as the much hyped Bilstein LRA super flexy extended shocks.
And I can gain an extra 20mm by taking out the internal bump stops...
ie there is no way that GQ rears are shorter than Rangie although the fronts are- that's why you use 80 series toyota shocks in the front!
And I can gain an extra 20mm by taking out the internal bump stops...
ie there is no way that GQ rears are shorter than Rangie although the fronts are- that's why you use 80 series toyota shocks in the front!
Take me to the Bush!
Re: 4" suspension lift 4.4 2 dr rangie
HiYe Olde Rangie wrote:Hi im wanting to lift my rangie 4" but im struggling to find anyone that does any higher than a 2". Does anyone know if anyone does a kit or anyone know what else will fit my aim is 35's but need more travel
I sell high flex coils to suit a 4" lift. I usually keep them in stock, I am waiting on Dobinsons to make up some more for me. Just email me if you are interested. Price is $350 for set of 4. I also have longer shocks.
Shane.
We sell SUSPENSION - PRICES on
https://www.suspensionstuff.com.au" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Free Freight 1300 048 991
FLEXY COILS - Superior Engineering - TIGERZ11 - Tough Dog - PROCOMP - Polyair - ETC
https://www.suspensionstuff.com.au" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Free Freight 1300 048 991
FLEXY COILS - Superior Engineering - TIGERZ11 - Tough Dog - PROCOMP - Polyair - ETC
plenty people happily run relocators succesfully, and a 2nd hand front shock mount out of a landy cuts down to make the perfect spring relocator.
I agree that you leave the body lift til last, i find i am still finding my way with the stability without a body lift but am seeing that i need one also to get the clearance inside my guards. But know of many running 4" spring lift hasppily without the body lift but have modified their guars inside and out.
I currently have 2" spring lift and full guard cut with flare rubber from clark rubber to make the flares, and run 35's, as mantioned i do have problems with the tyres rubbing inside the guards under extreme flex, i could fit bigger biump stops but then loose bit of flex, could fit body lift but loos bit of stability or could cut and modify the inner of the guards.
I agree that you leave the body lift til last, i find i am still finding my way with the stability without a body lift but am seeing that i need one also to get the clearance inside my guards. But know of many running 4" spring lift hasppily without the body lift but have modified their guars inside and out.
I currently have 2" spring lift and full guard cut with flare rubber from clark rubber to make the flares, and run 35's, as mantioned i do have problems with the tyres rubbing inside the guards under extreme flex, i could fit bigger biump stops but then loose bit of flex, could fit body lift but loos bit of stability or could cut and modify the inner of the guards.
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