i have a semi complete WT and am considering having the spring perches on the diffs modified to a NT spacing (keeping it SPUA) and the diffs installed under my drover.
A few questions that come to mind are what does the WMS stand for below? probably really simple but i am racking my brain and its starting to hurt :(...
is there going to be any MAJOR or MINOR faults in having the WT diffs under the NT chassis??
What type of price is reasonable to have the perches professionally welded? or is there a member in Melbourne willing to take on the job for some kind of trade?
Track widths wms - wms
NT
Front 49 WMS
Rear 49 WMS
WT
Front 52 WMS
Rear 52 WMS
those wondering why: have just installed a fully reco'd 1.3 have 6.5's on the wish list with a set of 2" springs. makes sense to use what i have around... figure i can loose some offset on the rims by widening the diff width.
cheers in advance.
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WT diffs to NT spacing. need some help pls.
WT diffs to NT spacing. need some help pls.
[quote="-Nemesis-"][quote="bj on roids"]whens the aussie one start?[/quote]
A few episodes before they can it? :lol:[/quote]
A few episodes before they can it? :lol:[/quote]
keep the rims and do the diff =) then youll be less tippy on the tracks!
keep in mind when new perches are welded on you need to take into account final ride height to get the driveshaft angles right, and on the front watch the steering too when you rotate the diff around.
keep in mind when new perches are welded on you need to take into account final ride height to get the driveshaft angles right, and on the front watch the steering too when you rotate the diff around.
The worst thing about censorship is ███████.
yeh thought of that to.. but finding with the big offset it is alot of strain on the bearings.. then there is more tyre out of the flares=canary :(alien wrote:keep the rims and do the diff =) then youll be less tippy on the tracks!
keep in mind when new perches are welded on you need to take into account final ride height to get the driveshaft angles right, and on the front watch the steering too when you rotate the diff around.
and hence why i asked: What type of price is reasonable to have the perches professionally welded? or is there a member in Melbourne willing to take on the job for some kind of trade?
[quote="-Nemesis-"][quote="bj on roids"]whens the aussie one start?[/quote]
A few episodes before they can it? :lol:[/quote]
A few episodes before they can it? :lol:[/quote]
well the right rear wheel bearing decided to finally let go...nails down the blackboard.....skreeeech...... ughhh... so now comes some more suzi downtime :( sad but hopefully worth it.. I'll run down on what options I have and would just like some input on DIY prices and rundown, or get it done by a 'specialist' etc.
feel free to ad your why or why nots in favor and against.
Lets begin..
Option one..
now as a run down.. drivers axle is out and from what i can tell its in good condition.. rolling it on a flat bit of glass shows no bumps and bends, splines look ok.. bearing is knaffed.. (broken balls/loose..generally rooted) same said for the outer seal, stuffed on removal(was split upon inspection). replace time. Id gather the inside seals would also be well worn by now..
so im up for new bearings(will do both sides obviously) sweet can live with that.. and new seals.. (again, both sides.. outer AND inner..just in case..) no wuckers.. Is it still the case the genuine suzuki ones still come with two seals?
having not changed a rear wheel bearing on the zuki before, and now finding the sleve on the axle needs to be pressed off im presuming I have to take it to a specialist or someone with a press...or is it safe to grind it off and remove..being careful o'corse!! the same with the bearing inner case? then using a pipe and brass coller to 'tap' back on?
when changing the inside bearing.. am i going to upset the (gwagen
)backlash and play havok with my diff!?? or is a simple case of in and out!?
just noticing a few times it being needed to be setup by a 'profesional'
i am guessing in total about 400 bucks he
OR...
do i take the WT diffs out of the spares suzi and get some perches welded on at the NT track keeping it spua and have the WT diff overhauled with the NT centers installed.. if all is good gear wise.... yet to drain the diff.. i know..i know.. can I also get locating pin for springs moved now to?
*but now wondering if i have them welded ontop as well as the bottom...? but SPUA..i dont like being to high
<-lol!
to those that have done this what problems did you encounter?
If you done it again what would you change?
Are you happy with the outcome?
Has it caused any problems since?
Any helpful tips!??
feel free to ad your why or why nots in favor and against.
Lets begin..
Option one..
now as a run down.. drivers axle is out and from what i can tell its in good condition.. rolling it on a flat bit of glass shows no bumps and bends, splines look ok.. bearing is knaffed.. (broken balls/loose..generally rooted) same said for the outer seal, stuffed on removal(was split upon inspection). replace time. Id gather the inside seals would also be well worn by now..
so im up for new bearings(will do both sides obviously) sweet can live with that.. and new seals.. (again, both sides.. outer AND inner..just in case..) no wuckers.. Is it still the case the genuine suzuki ones still come with two seals?
having not changed a rear wheel bearing on the zuki before, and now finding the sleve on the axle needs to be pressed off im presuming I have to take it to a specialist or someone with a press...or is it safe to grind it off and remove..being careful o'corse!! the same with the bearing inner case? then using a pipe and brass coller to 'tap' back on?
when changing the inside bearing.. am i going to upset the (gwagen
)backlash and play havok with my diff!?? or is a simple case of in and out!?just noticing a few times it being needed to be setup by a 'profesional'
i am guessing in total about 400 bucks he
OR...
do i take the WT diffs out of the spares suzi and get some perches welded on at the NT track keeping it spua and have the WT diff overhauled with the NT centers installed.. if all is good gear wise.... yet to drain the diff.. i know..i know.. can I also get locating pin for springs moved now to?
*but now wondering if i have them welded ontop as well as the bottom...? but SPUA..i dont like being to high
<-lol!to those that have done this what problems did you encounter?
If you done it again what would you change?
Are you happy with the outcome?
Has it caused any problems since?
Any helpful tips!??
[quote="-Nemesis-"][quote="bj on roids"]whens the aussie one start?[/quote]
A few episodes before they can it? :lol:[/quote]
A few episodes before they can it? :lol:[/quote]
I'd say definetely go the WT's. width = stability.
Also you can drop off some of that offset which is easier on your wheelbearings, plus you'll have less scrub radius, so bigger tyres (in the future maybe?) wont scrub so bad at full lock on the guards when you have to increase offset to clear the springs (can you tell i've just been through all this?
)
Not sure what you mean about welding a perch on top as well as bottom but staying SPUA? Do you mean incase you want to go spoa in the future?
If you think that you might do that, then may as well do it while you have the diff out & getting welded.
RE: moving the locating in the springs... You dont need to. You can redrill the hole in the perches & u-bolt plates 1" back to move front diff foward 1".
Do a search and look in the bible regarding WT diff swaps regarding minor/major problems & work involved. Plenty of info.
Some of the work that may be involved for to think about:
Driveshaft flange bolt pattern.
Rear brake line. (I think NTs have 2 separate lines on the diff?) WT has 1 connection for the rear.
Steering.
Shock mounting? (not sure on this...)
As for the welding theres plenty of zuk guys in melb. One might offer to give you a hand. Or maybe think about joining up at a club or something?
Also you can drop off some of that offset which is easier on your wheelbearings, plus you'll have less scrub radius, so bigger tyres (in the future maybe?) wont scrub so bad at full lock on the guards when you have to increase offset to clear the springs (can you tell i've just been through all this?
)Not sure what you mean about welding a perch on top as well as bottom but staying SPUA? Do you mean incase you want to go spoa in the future?
If you think that you might do that, then may as well do it while you have the diff out & getting welded.
RE: moving the locating in the springs... You dont need to. You can redrill the hole in the perches & u-bolt plates 1" back to move front diff foward 1".
Do a search and look in the bible regarding WT diff swaps regarding minor/major problems & work involved. Plenty of info.
Some of the work that may be involved for to think about:
Driveshaft flange bolt pattern.
Rear brake line. (I think NTs have 2 separate lines on the diff?) WT has 1 connection for the rear.
Steering.
Shock mounting? (not sure on this...)
As for the welding theres plenty of zuk guys in melb. One might offer to give you a hand. Or maybe think about joining up at a club or something?
^^ sweet 
checked the bible.. checked the search.. 10 pages.. and still didnt answer what exactly I asked, hence why its in the NT-WT thread originally..
least i got me answer and i know id be doing the right thing.
dont have the time to join the suzi club at present, but soon.. need the car back on the road so I dont have to ride the pushie! its bloody cold at 6am in the zuke let alone on the bike!
guessing a diff and driveline place would be the best place to go to?! any melbourne suggestions??
checked the bible.. checked the search.. 10 pages.. and still didnt answer what exactly I asked, hence why its in the NT-WT thread originally.. least i got me answer and i know id be doing the right thing.
dont have the time to join the suzi club at present, but soon.. need the car back on the road so I dont have to ride the pushie! its bloody cold at 6am in the zuke let alone on the bike!
guessing a diff and driveline place would be the best place to go to?! any melbourne suggestions??
[quote="-Nemesis-"][quote="bj on roids"]whens the aussie one start?[/quote]
A few episodes before they can it? :lol:[/quote]
A few episodes before they can it? :lol:[/quote]
Ahh ok. I was going to suggest, just bite the bullet & get out there & start pulling em apart, & see how you go. Fix each problem as it arises and you'll get through it. But having to use the car each day poses a problem.
If you've got a whole WT sitting there it shouldnt be too hard.
Pull the WT's out (with steering links. unbolt drag link at pitman arm on steering box) throw the WT's in the back of your zuk and drop it off somewhere & tell em to move the perches to match the NT diffs under the car, and that they may need to re-route a brakeline or two around the new perches.
lowrangeoffroad sell a 2-line in, 1 line out brake proportioning valve for hilux/toyota axle swaps. Could be a simple fix for the rear brake line issue. (if line sizes are the same...)
http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/samyotaswap.htm
You can use a combination of WT & NT flanges to get your driveshafts in.
Ditch the Handbrake from the rear WT housing & keep using your NT transfer mounted one...
If you've got a whole WT sitting there it shouldnt be too hard.
Pull the WT's out (with steering links. unbolt drag link at pitman arm on steering box) throw the WT's in the back of your zuk and drop it off somewhere & tell em to move the perches to match the NT diffs under the car, and that they may need to re-route a brakeline or two around the new perches.
lowrangeoffroad sell a 2-line in, 1 line out brake proportioning valve for hilux/toyota axle swaps. Could be a simple fix for the rear brake line issue. (if line sizes are the same...)
http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/samyotaswap.htm
You can use a combination of WT & NT flanges to get your driveshafts in.
Ditch the Handbrake from the rear WT housing & keep using your NT transfer mounted one...
I'ts just my opinion mate. I havent actually done the conversion. After driving around in a GU for 3 years I learnt about the tippyness/instabilty of the high & narrow nature sierras the hard way... Hence why my rig is still sprung under, with offset 15x8's & 1" wheelspacers & 12.5" wide tyresleast i got me answer and i know id be doing the right thing.
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