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New Build Up in the Vic Zook Club worth following
antt wrote:fark!, they must look like cheese cutters
31.8" High by 7.5" wide... (approximately)
Not really much worse ratio wise than a 33x9.5"... about the same as the chainsaw 34"'s...... (34x9.5")
very cheap and narrow is good with a Vitara... rotational weight costs you big time thats why suzi guys often go big offset rims and narrow tyres. After all with the vit it's even harder to power or gear up than a sierra.
Heaps less weight so less impact to driving.... and cut through mud reallly good.... think old troopy landcruisers factory rubber (but without the buttt ugly split rims).
If you want an awesome 7.50 x 16 or 7.00 x 16 try and see if you can find some Firestone SATs. I had some 7.00s on my Zuk for years (Christover now has them) probably better than the swampers in mud as they are directional, great tyre and cheap too about $140 a tyre. They are still made in New Zealand I think and you can occasionally still get them here.
Ransom note = demand + collage
grimbo wrote:If you want an awesome 7.50 x 16 or 7.00 x 16 try and see if you can find some Firestone SATs. I had some 7.00s on my Zuk for years (Christover now has them) probably better than the swampers in mud as they are directional, great tyre and cheap too about $140 a tyre. They are still made in New Zealand I think and you can occasionally still get them here.
well i've tried searching the net for days trying to find a pic and supplier in aus for these tyres, but have come up with nothing
antt wrote:are these the ones you had grimbo?
All the major manufacturers still offer them based on my slow 56k searches, although some of them only offer A/T profiles. If you just want an AT equivalent these are cheap
BFG, Goodyear and Michelins are still available in juicy mud patterns including the
BFG Muddies (obviously)
Goodyear G90 "approved for military applications"
Goodyear Wrangler TG
The michelins have 3 different muddy tread profiles eg XZL
Not that a 85 section 16" is approximately the same height so a 235/85/16 is similar in overall dimensions and theese are pretty standard for the Landy guys
Suzuki Viagra wrote:Wanna stretch them out as long as possible so i can afford to do the dual tcase mods...
Hey Suzuki Viagra,
Have you considered the idea of removing the vitara transmission and x-fer and replacing it with a sierra transmission and x-fer? (with the engine adaptor plate and jackshaft)... would that fit under there?
That would score you a rockhopper that you could run different high and low range ratios in (i.e. a series 1 or 3)...
What do you think? would that work?
DMA Founding Member #1 - Now Retired
greg wrote:Suzuki Viagra wrote:Wanna stretch them out as long as possible so i can afford to do the dual tcase mods...
Hey Suzuki Viagra,
Have you considered the idea of removing the vitara transmission and x-fer and replacing it with a sierra transmission and x-fer? (with the engine adaptor plate and jackshaft)... would that fit under there?
That would score you a rockhopper that you could run different high and low range ratios in (i.e. a series 1 or 3)...
What do you think? would that work?
Hey thats a good idea 99
yeshemesh
antt wrote:this guy->http://www.k9rdj.co.uk/ has swapped just the sierra transfer with rockhopper into his vitara
Thanks antt, looks like there's a bit of work involved to get the sierra transfer case to sit in there, but it also looks like the costing (minus labour) would be comparable to the cost of purchasing a vitara hopper and having it installed. Plus the sierra x-fer adds the gearing to high range too
DMA Founding Member #1 - Now Retired
Yeah I've considered using the sierra gearbox and tcase, but with a driveshaft of something like 90cm long I' sure I can get away with the dual transfer cases.
The Sierra transfer case and (shortened as much as possible) shaft will probably take about 40-50cm out of the tailshaft length, but also drop the output a fair way down - something like 20cm lower, so the angle improves.
It can be done without removing the crossmember although some butchery is still involved.
The real issues are - is the rear shaft gonna be too short for the amount of rear flex I have? Is the angle too steep?
I can always run a double jointed shaft, but that will reduce my ability to run an extendable driveshaft.
I could also move the axle back, but would probably only do this if I went to some wider leafsprung axles.
I may need to get exact dimensions on the Sierra Tcase: front output to rear output width, front input to rear output height, and of course the lenght of the shafts on a SWB sierra would be good.
Antt - since yuo have a LWB I'd go this route - it'd be simple on a LWB... only problem is to compensate gearing by huge rubber or altered diff ratios... Or of course just put up with it. Remember the High range has a 40% reduction Of course low has about 127% 
Sierra gearbox and clutches are relatively weak by comparison, so the Vit gearbox is better staying if it can.
The Sierra transfer case and (shortened as much as possible) shaft will probably take about 40-50cm out of the tailshaft length, but also drop the output a fair way down - something like 20cm lower, so the angle improves.
It can be done without removing the crossmember although some butchery is still involved.
The real issues are - is the rear shaft gonna be too short for the amount of rear flex I have? Is the angle too steep?
I can always run a double jointed shaft, but that will reduce my ability to run an extendable driveshaft.
I could also move the axle back, but would probably only do this if I went to some wider leafsprung axles.
I may need to get exact dimensions on the Sierra Tcase: front output to rear output width, front input to rear output height, and of course the lenght of the shafts on a SWB sierra would be good.
Antt - since yuo have a LWB I'd go this route - it'd be simple on a LWB... only problem is to compensate gearing by huge rubber or altered diff ratios... Or of course just put up with it. Remember the High range has a 40% reduction
Of course low has about 127%
Sierra gearbox and clutches are relatively weak by comparison, so the Vit gearbox is better staying if it can.
Suzuki Viagra wrote:Yeah I've considered using the sierra gearbox and tcase, but with a driveshaft of something like 90cm long I' sure I can get away with the dual transfer cases.
The Sierra transfer case and (shortened as much as possible) shaft will probably take about 40-50cm out of the tailshaft length, but also drop the output a fair way down - something like 20cm lower, so the angle improves.
It can be done without removing the crossmember although some butchery is still involved.
The real issues are - is the rear shaft gonna be too short for the amount of rear flex I have? Is the angle too steep?
I can always run a double jointed shaft, but that will reduce my ability to run an extendable driveshaft.
I could also move the axle back, but would probably only do this if I went to some wider leafsprung axles.
I may need to get exact dimensions on the Sierra Tcase: front output to rear output width, front input to rear output height, and of course the lenght of the shafts on a SWB sierra would be good.
Antt - since yuo have a LWB I'd go this route - it'd be simple on a LWB... only problem is to compensate gearing by huge rubber or altered diff ratios... Or of course just put up with it. Remember the High range has a 40% reduction
Sierra gearbox and clutches are relatively weak by comparison, so the Vit gearbox is better staying if it can.
hmmmmm, what are sierra transfers worth? plus custom shaft, plus rockhopper........might be simpler to go with a vitara rockhopper, i could live with 31-32's on the standard high range i think.
what does it cost to get the rockhopper installed
antt wrote:Suzuki Viagra wrote:Yeah I've considered using the sierra gearbox and tcase, but with a driveshaft of something like 90cm long I' sure I can get away with the dual transfer cases.
The Sierra transfer case and (shortened as much as possible) shaft will probably take about 40-50cm out of the tailshaft length, but also drop the output a fair way down - something like 20cm lower, so the angle improves.
It can be done without removing the crossmember although some butchery is still involved.
The real issues are - is the rear shaft gonna be too short for the amount of rear flex I have? Is the angle too steep?
I can always run a double jointed shaft, but that will reduce my ability to run an extendable driveshaft.
I could also move the axle back, but would probably only do this if I went to some wider leafsprung axles.
I may need to get exact dimensions on the Sierra Tcase: front output to rear output width, front input to rear output height, and of course the lenght of the shafts on a SWB sierra would be good.
Antt - since yuo have a LWB I'd go this route - it'd be simple on a LWB... only problem is to compensate gearing by huge rubber or altered diff ratios... Or of course just put up with it. Remember the High range has a 40% reduction
Sierra gearbox and clutches are relatively weak by comparison, so the Vit gearbox is better staying if it can.
hmmmmm, what are sierra transfers worth? plus custom shaft, plus rockhopper........might be simpler to go with a vitara rockhopper, i could live with 31-32's on the standard high range i think.
what does it cost to get the rockhopper installed
Sierra transfers plus custom shafts will cost you around a grand with extra money put aside for the little aggravating "dont wanna do it myself jobs".
A heavier duty clutch would suffice for 31"s.... a lot of people seem to cope.
You do also have the calmini R&P option - at the moment with the US dollar so poor this isn't too bad for price.
antt wrote:what are your thoughts on the auto+calmini option
I'd rather a red hot poker up the a55 than get an auto....
But that's just my opinion and there's some very nice 4wd women out there who like having an auto
You always can consider an engine swap instead - might be cheaper and easier than auto + rockhopper or auto + twin calmini R&P.....
If you want torque multiplication by lower gearing - drop a bigger motor in. Technically under QLD Rules you'd be allowed something like a 7 litre engine in the LWB Vitara.... I think that will give you loads more power/torque than you ever need
After all the hilux guys seem to cope with similar (or worse) gearing by plonking in a Commodore or Chev V6 and they run much bigger tyres in a much heavier car.
Even something like a 3.8 litre Commodore V6 would still more than double your effective torque and reduce your idle (and hence your crawl speed). As a plus I'm sure some Sierra person wants and EFI Vitara engine..... at least you recover some of the cost.
For any separate chassis vehicle allowable capacity for Naturally aspirated is weight times 5.46 (in cc's) and 4.68 for Forced Induction.... With the extra weight of the LWB anything up to 351 is quite feasible - just have to measure em up....
cj wrote:Call me a lady... my next Vit will be an auto.
This is for sale on the NSW Trading Post site and theres also a pic......
SUZUKI VITARA 1992 Powered by 3.8 V6 Commodore engine, mags, flared guards, metallic blue, all extras, 12 months rego, excellent condition, $8500 XDN-667 GRIFFITH 02-6963 6341
You girl!
fast grunty bushpig of a girl but.....
I want a V8 vitara so I can be a beach bully and throw sand in lots of people's faces from 100 metres away!
I hope to be able to get to GoPrint tomorrow and get a copy of the Light Vehicle Code of Practice to see exactly what I can and can't drop in the Vit, then shop around for an engineer who understands my depraved desires.....
There's always 300Zx V6's and stuff that can go in heaps cheaper than a
XL7 V6.
mud4b wrote:changing engine will NOT help crawl ratio......
No....
but then crawl ratio is not the be-all and end-all of effective torque.
Part of the point of "crawl ratio" (or at least gearing) is to amplify the torque of an engine. The other part is to reduce the speed required to attack an obstacle.
A larger engine with more torque, a lower idle speed and a stronger clutch provides these features very well - at least as well as a rockhopper in a 1 litre Sierra.
If it did not.... then Patrols and Landcruisers would have 1 litre engines and shorter gearing.
Think about it this way - simple example (not real world but simplified)....
Twice the capacity - so twice the torque, and half the idle speed.
This means at the reduced idle speed we have the same effective tractive force, but at half the engine speed, so half the wheel speed on the same gearing.
This simple example gives the same effect as an additional 100% reduction by buying a rockhopper - either by applying twice the power at the same speed or the same power at half the speed.
Of course there's lots of variables for idle speed and overall torque curve which are not addressed here.
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