Where the heck is the VIN number on Sierras? I've got a '83 NT ute if it matters. I've found the body number on the vehicle ID plate, but is this the same as the VIN?
Also, where is the engine number on the 1ltr? I've searched around and can't find it anywhere.
I'd appreciate it if anyone could point me in the right direction - it would also be handy if one of you guys could check your rego papers and see if the VIN listed on your rego is the same as the body number on your vehicle ID plate.
Got an inspection tomorrow...
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VIN and engine numbers?
i think the engine number is where the bellhousing meets the block. on the exhaust side.look right behind where the exhaust flange join is (on the stock manifold).. might need to clean it up to read it.
If the vin/chassis number you found has the model code in it. eg. JSA##sj410#### etc. then thats the one your after. should be printed on the plate next the the battery .
If the vin/chassis number you found has the model code in it. eg. JSA##sj410#### etc. then thats the one your after. should be printed on the plate next the the battery .
Nope, nothing behind the head - but shouldn't it be on the block anyway? Nothing on the block in that area either.
There are 2 plates on my zook - the compliance plate and the vehicle ID plate. Both plates have the body number (6 digits, doesn't have the model code in it), so I'm guessing that is the VIN?
There are 2 plates on my zook - the compliance plate and the vehicle ID plate. Both plates have the body number (6 digits, doesn't have the model code in it), so I'm guessing that is the VIN?
Here we go, this is what I've got:
Plate on the left is the compliance plate, plate on the right is the vehicle ID plate. The body number is listed on both plates, but I can't find it stamped on the body/chassis anywhere and the engine number is on neither of them and I can't find it anywhere.
Any ideas?
Plate on the left is the compliance plate, plate on the right is the vehicle ID plate. The body number is listed on both plates, but I can't find it stamped on the body/chassis anywhere and the engine number is on neither of them and I can't find it anywhere.
Any ideas?
my VIN is on the chassis rail above the drivers side front wheel... starts with "JSAOSJ" or something.
Engine number is right next to where the header joins to the exhaust pipe, on the block where the bell housing attaches - the back of the block has a 1" flat area around the bottom of it and thats where the number is - my extractors make it nearly impossible to read unless you're holding a torch from the front and reading from the side.
Engine number is right next to where the header joins to the exhaust pipe, on the block where the bell housing attaches - the back of the block has a 1" flat area around the bottom of it and thats where the number is - my extractors make it nearly impossible to read unless you're holding a torch from the front and reading from the side.
The worst thing about censorship is ███████.
good luck mate - pits here in WA got my otherwise pristine zuk on:
- No bonnet stay (thing that holds the bonnet up)
- 2mm play in RHF wheel bearing
- "Holes in floor" - ie: plugs were sitting 5mm to the side of the hole
- Steering wheel not aligned correctly (it was 20mm crooked to go straight)
- Pulls left (find me a zuk that doesnt!!) - this was later canned though on the 2nd inspection cos the guys daughter has a stock zuk and it does the same no matter how they try fix it.
Its very luck of the draw though - theres good blokes and bad blokes =)
- No bonnet stay (thing that holds the bonnet up)
- 2mm play in RHF wheel bearing
- "Holes in floor" - ie: plugs were sitting 5mm to the side of the hole
- Steering wheel not aligned correctly (it was 20mm crooked to go straight)
- Pulls left (find me a zuk that doesnt!!) - this was later canned though on the 2nd inspection cos the guys daughter has a stock zuk and it does the same no matter how they try fix it.
Its very luck of the draw though - theres good blokes and bad blokes =)
The worst thing about censorship is ███████.
Yep I hear ya - mine failed on a few things were legitimately wrong with it, however I plan on changing over most of the 1ltr, 4spd, NT stuff with 1.3, 5spd, WT stuff - so I didn't really want to go fixing up the dodgy stuff.
Got a good inspector who overlooked quite a few things when I explained my plans.
The naughty bits I'm talking about are all the stuff that an engineer would need to certify before a rego inspection would pass - the engine conversion, brake conversion, SOA etc.
Got a good inspector who overlooked quite a few things when I explained my plans.
The naughty bits I'm talking about are all the stuff that an engineer would need to certify before a rego inspection would pass - the engine conversion, brake conversion, SOA etc.
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