coolant pipe has snaped...

[islandvitara]

another problem has poped up on my sierra. a coolant hose was leaking bad so i replaced it - its the little right angle hose directly behind the radiator fan. its about 50mm long. i replaced it with the new hose, topped up the radiator with coolant, started the engine and it pissed out coolant from the new hose at the bottom (where the radiator fan spins on the side of the engine block) took a closer look and found that the metal hose connection has cracked and snaped but is still in place... how do i fix this? can it be brazed back on or do i have to replace the whole pipe? i will post pics up tomorrow of exactly where im talkin bout. also the engine tempreture gauge in the dash doesnt work, the one above the fuel gauge. whats causing that? thanks everyone for your input on my 2 threads, cheers islandvit

[nicbeer]

if its the one i know. about 25 bux or so for new one.

[islandvitara]

well thats some good news

i was reading the haynes bible and its the pump shaft where the radiator fan spins, im putin pics up soon..

is it interchangebale or is it apart of the engine block? i cant see where any bolts/nuts are to take it out??? but that was last night in the dark so i might have to check again..

[crackatinny]

if it is what im thinking (the steel pipe at the back ov the waterpump)just take it to any decent mechanic, or welding place, or rad shop. ask them to braze weld the crack. if u were in adelaide i woud do it 4 u.

there is one bolt about halfway along the pipe

[islandvitara]

heres the pics of the where the crack is, you can see the coolant leak...









now you know where im talkin bout...

[nicbeer]

ahh that one. i was thinking lower rad hose.

u can buy new if u want easy. think about 100 i think

[islandvitara]

ok thats cool also, i forgot to mention that after i had drained all the coolant out of the radiator and engine (via that damaged pipe) i toped it all back up again but when i started the engine again the engine seemed to hesitate to idle properly and stall!!!

it was running excellent before i changed the coolant, idled fine ect

but after i found the crack in the pipe and change the small hose connecting to it, it has started to stall pretty much straight after i start the engine???

wtf is going on? is this because i drained ALL the coolant out of the engine??? it pretty much drained out of the crack in the pipe that i refered to in the pics..

is this because i drained the engine coolant out completely???




thanks, islandvit

[PCRman]

Someone else who knows these better may correct me but IF thats a water choke it could be an air lock in the choke assembly keeping the choke on full (used to happen in my ahem... Magna)?

[nicbeer]

Someone else who knows these better may correct me but IF thats a water choke it could be an air lock in the choke assembly keeping the choke on full (used to happen in my ahem... Magna)?

thats possible. or also u may have knocked the wire to the idle solinoid

[11_evl]

id say more likely u have knocked a hose or wire off in mucking around with the pipe.
ps ill find out a price tomorrow for that pipe if u remind me

[crackatinny]

yeah thats the one i was thinking... looks like it has happened before. it might be some good peice of mind to get a new one.
then again, i wouldnt, id just try and fix it first. to get it done shouldnt be more than $20 - $30.

[gumtree]

with the water temp gauge check that the spade connector is actually attached to the sender on the thermostat coz sometimes it can fall off. if u cant fix that go to ebay and order a water temp gauge for under $50 and it will have everything including a new sender, just purchase a holder for the gauge as they are sold seperatly usually.

[=SKB=]

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic837 ... light=pipe

For anyones future reference:

Genuine = $115 to $139

For anyone doing it...make sure you use a new genuine part and o-ring and as Cruzer! said some form of sealent. I used Silastic Gasket sealer (normally used on water pumps etc). Coat the o-ring on the pipe liberally as some will work its way back out of the hole on the block. The sealant also helps to hold the o-ring in place. I then smeared the pipe with more silastic around the pipe where it meets with the hole. Be wary of the o-ring moving or sliding back when you insert it as the casting inside the block can be rough and push it out of its seating. I learnt this the first time only after doing it up and pouring in the coolant, which preceded to leak out of the hole. It pinched against the pipe and block and I had to replace the o-ring. Let your sealant cure for a while and you should be right. I don't have pic's but hopefully there is some useful tech info for anyone changing their inlet pipe.