89 4runner body lift. How to??? O.k I know how to do a body lift, did one to the old paj but I was speaking to a guy in a 4x4 shop today and he said that the runners are hard to do. Have to extend brake booster lines etc.... Is this true? For me to look at it I would presume that I should only have to loosen off the steering and raise her, then make sure the snorkel pipe is long enough and drop the radiator 2".
Also is there any probs with the transfer selector when you do the body lift.
Any info would be extremely helpful. I have just done a 2" susp lift and got 31" mongrels and there still hitting the inner front guards when turning on rough terrain.
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Would have been asked a thousand times before, but....
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Would have been asked a thousand times before, but....
Jabber gone. Now have 98 nissan terrano and a 94 4.2ldiesel rv troopy on 33s slowly getting the fancy bits. How the hell do I change my user name?
OK, starting from the front,
yes, radiator drop - re-drill rad support for bottom bolts, top 2 will go though holes there already
Steering column will need all 3 uni joints loosened before the lift, then see how it goes
The 3 brake tube piggy tails need to be horizontal so they spread and do not kink
The steering column may hit the hole in the firewall, so a small notch may be required
The gear stick will need an extension
The transfer lever may hit the floor and it will need a notch-out
The fuel filler will possibly need to be extended, loosen the tube before the lift
The front bumper will need lift bracket or if you have a bull bar, it will need major mods to lift
The tow bar if fitted will need major mods to lift it too
The wires and hand brake cable will need to be assessed as you lift
Side steps, if chassis mounted will need mods to lift
Be sure when you start removing OEM body bolts, you leave some sitting in place, as the body is likely to slide away from it correct alignment once you start jacking up - when this happens, "hill billys" do panel damage trying to help you re-align it
yes, radiator drop - re-drill rad support for bottom bolts, top 2 will go though holes there already
Steering column will need all 3 uni joints loosened before the lift, then see how it goes
The 3 brake tube piggy tails need to be horizontal so they spread and do not kink
The steering column may hit the hole in the firewall, so a small notch may be required
The gear stick will need an extension
The transfer lever may hit the floor and it will need a notch-out
The fuel filler will possibly need to be extended, loosen the tube before the lift
The front bumper will need lift bracket or if you have a bull bar, it will need major mods to lift
The tow bar if fitted will need major mods to lift it too
The wires and hand brake cable will need to be assessed as you lift
Side steps, if chassis mounted will need mods to lift
Be sure when you start removing OEM body bolts, you leave some sitting in place, as the body is likely to slide away from it correct alignment once you start jacking up - when this happens, "hill billys" do panel damage trying to help you re-align it
I'm the sharpest tool in the shed!
Cheers, that may come in handy. Turns out that I might not have to do a body lift afterall. I went out today and took the mud flaps off and then took it onto some rough terrain and the wheels did not scrub at all. Even when I got one of the rear wheel airborne with the front compressed to the max.
On that note though, if it does scrub again I might make my own tefflon 1" body blocks, hopefully there will be no probs with mods using such a mild body lift.
On that note though, if it does scrub again I might make my own tefflon 1" body blocks, hopefully there will be no probs with mods using such a mild body lift.
Jabber gone. Now have 98 nissan terrano and a 94 4.2ldiesel rv troopy on 33s slowly getting the fancy bits. How the hell do I change my user name?
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