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Notcher/holesaw
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
Notcher/holesaw
On the weekend I bought a hole saw to do a few odd jobs & i was hoping to be able to use it when I start playing with tubes.......
One of the jobs I had was to drill a hole in the wifes XJ bumper to mount the towbar wiring.....it barely marked the surface before the teeth were only a memory - and there was only a circular scratch.......
So what's a god holesaw that could be use to also notch tube etc? where to source one would be good too ta....
One of the jobs I had was to drill a hole in the wifes XJ bumper to mount the towbar wiring.....it barely marked the surface before the teeth were only a memory - and there was only a circular scratch.......
So what's a god holesaw that could be use to also notch tube etc? where to source one would be good too ta....
Cheers [url=http://www.wooders.com.au]Wooders[/url]
Hey wooders, was it a metal hole saw or a woodwork hole saw? Sounds like you either got a shit metal one, or were using a woodwork tool.
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v840 wrote: [Not a shot at Tonka] It's like saying, hell I've got two nuts, I may as well cut one of them off for the hell of it. I ain't using it.[/NAS@T] It's ridiculous!
mud4b wrote:yeah id like to find a decent tube notcher also but cant find anyone selling em....
speedworx notcher is what ya need dunno where you will find one though
Last edited by spazbot on Tue Dec 16, 2003 2:57 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Tanka - was SUPPOSED to be a metal hole saw - but I think they must have been talking lead of something, because it turned to butter on the wifes stock tinfoil bumper.....Mind you at least I got a full refund when I dumped it back on the Bunning service desk
Cheers [url=http://www.wooders.com.au]Wooders[/url]
you need to go to an engineering shop and buy a proper one, not a bunnings one
the good ones and made from about 2mm wall steel not tin foil like the cheep bunnings one
somewhere like trade tools or a local nut and bolt should be able to help you out
the good ones and made from about 2mm wall steel not tin foil like the cheep bunnings one
somewhere like trade tools or a local nut and bolt should be able to help you out
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Like Bubs said, the wall thickness of the saw is paramount. Also you will get a lot more life out of any cutting type of tool if you use a coolant/lubricant of some sort. There are dedicated lubes to use, you can use kero as a mild lube, its a good volatile coolant though. Compressed CO2 is excellent on plastics.
Spending dollars on quality tools is an investment in your hobby (wife never believes me - "you spent $89.00 on that piece of steel?")
Spending dollars on quality tools is an investment in your hobby (wife never believes me - "you spent $89.00 on that piece of steel?")
Built, not bought.
i got a 70mm high speed hole saw from bunnings the other week. I drilled about 1o holes in 5mm mild steel when i was doing my spring over . You have to buy the blue ones cant remember the brand in was almost 5o bucks . I drilled it all and only lost one tooth probly cause i was going too hard. You need cutting fluid, i wouldnt even bother with those crapy multi packs where you get 5 or 6 sizes for about twenty bucks. spen the money and it will last for ages
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Wooders wrote:Hmmm ok guess I'll just have to ring around before my next day off.....
Any recommended shops around Hornsby /Nth Syd area???
Wooders Butler and smith opposite us sell the holesaws that last. You'll find if you spin it too fast it will wreck the teeht as well.
I baught a cheap notcher from Hare and Forbesfor $120 and it works awsum.
SAM
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I use either Sutton or P&N. For some reason, the Sutton cut through the steel tube heaps better than the P&N. Suttton are blue and P&N are black. There is a white brand floating around which appears to be good quality as well.
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Sutton hole saws....only way to go , my 2 1/2 " has done hundreds of holes and still cuts the way it did on the first day I bought it.
P&N drillbits are better than the sutton drillbits to... I still have my first set of P&N bits and have only broken 2 bits in 18 years !!!
P&N drillbits are better than the sutton drillbits to... I still have my first set of P&N bits and have only broken 2 bits in 18 years !!!
[color=blue][size=150][b]And your cry-baby, whinyassed opinion would be.....? [/b][/size][/color]
Listen guys if your cuttimg into your pride and joy or just a shitter invest
in a decent one , not a cheap and nasty from clints crazy bargains, which
will just f**k the job up. P/N are good so are Bacho, but get the proper arbor as well. If you want perfect holes spend the money. I have carbide
tipped ones and they've lasted four years mainly cutting stainless steel
which is hard shit to cut (the carbide tip ones were only bought because I was sick of burning out hole saws every five cuts or so) but remember to
use a cutting oil or fluid as this prolongs the life of the hole saw.
in a decent one , not a cheap and nasty from clints crazy bargains, which
will just f**k the job up. P/N are good so are Bacho, but get the proper arbor as well. If you want perfect holes spend the money. I have carbide
tipped ones and they've lasted four years mainly cutting stainless steel
which is hard shit to cut (the carbide tip ones were only bought because I was sick of burning out hole saws every five cuts or so) but remember to
use a cutting oil or fluid as this prolongs the life of the hole saw.
Probably should also be said that a slow speed should be used. Don't know about the difference between P&N and Sutton but my Sutton hole saws work better than the P&N but V8Patrol says his P&N twist bits are the shiat but I've replaced at least half of my P&N drill bit set - maybe I'm just clumsy
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id stick with the sutton metal hole saw dude as ive usede the sutton hole saws before and they are resonably priced and usually every good hardware store shood stock em
BEEBEE is right... slow speed.... a cordless drill set on slow will do the trick..... so dont use a air drill (i did that once) plus buy abit of cutting compound solution that you can dilute with water and pour it into a squirty bottle makes life a whole lot easier
BEEBEE is right... slow speed.... a cordless drill set on slow will do the trick..... so dont use a air drill (i did that once) plus buy abit of cutting compound solution that you can dilute with water and pour it into a squirty bottle makes life a whole lot easier
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I was using wd40 to lube the cutting & I have a big old drill that has a fixed low speed of 500rpm - it's great for redular drilling, but yeah I bought the shitty 6pack for $20 - I shoulda known better But I was thinking "it's only 1 hole".......
B&S - Cool I've goten a few things from them before...
B&S - Cool I've goten a few things from them before...
Cheers [url=http://www.wooders.com.au]Wooders[/url]
overkill wrote:Wooders wrote:Hmmm ok guess I'll just have to ring around before my next day off.....
Any recommended shops around Hornsby /Nth Syd area???
Wooders Butler and smith opposite us sell the holesaws that last. You'll find if you spin it too fast it will wreck the teeht as well.
I baught a cheap notcher from Hare and Forbesfor $120 and it works awsum.
SAM
never seen a notcher...whats it look like?
tried to buy one today but couldn't find one and no one knew what i was talking about
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hare and forbes are found here:
http://www.hareandforbes.com.au
http://www.hareandforbes.com.au
overkill wrote:Here is a picture of the notcher that we got from Hare and Forbes.
SAM
Does it self centre the tube?
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