Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user. If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
mlowe76 wrote:1) When I select HI low beam stays lit - this will lead to buld burnout I guess due to heat.
Is this supposed to happen? It does in my Rangie
I am pretty sure that's wrong, even in a rangie. It's certainly not right for 99% of vehicles - it should be high beam OR low beam, not both. Especially with an H4 setup where the filaments are both in one globe.
Unless you've confused the pins in the socket your diagram should work. Basically you should pull the sockets and get your multimeter out, work out which pin does what, make sure you've got the right one picked as common, low, and high, bearing in mind that being a toyota it could be negative switched, meaning there would be a common positive, not a common negative. The wiring diagram works with positive or negative switching, but you're looking for a different result from the multimeter when you're checking the existing wiring.
Ok, your problem is easily fixed.
What you need to do is put a load onto the other unused old loom plug on the high beam wire. What this does is complete the circuit and will turn on the dash indicator light and turn off the low beams.
When I made my own loom I just bought a piranha 'circuit completer' to do this but you could try using another smaller globe or something to place a load on this circuit. It will have to be something durable as it will be in use all the time whilst your using high beam.
coights 40th wrote:Ok, your problem is easily fixed.
What you need to do is put a load onto the other unused old loom plug on the high beam wire. What this does is complete the circuit and will turn on the dash indicator light and turn off the low beams.
When I made my own loom I just bought a piranha 'circuit completer' to do this but you could try using another smaller globe or something to place a load on this circuit. It will have to be something durable as it will be in use all the time whilst your using high beam.
Do you think you could post up a copy of your wiring diagram?
I have tried using a light bulb to complete the circuit and low stays on still, along with the dash light not working. The light bulb I used as the 'completer' lights up tho, so you'd image the circuit is complete and the light should come on.
Why have you connected the Original Connector LB contact to the new LB contacts? (Short yellow line at the top of your diagram.) Is this the wire which makes your dash indicator work?
mlowe76 wrote:1) When I select HI low beam stays lit - this will lead to buld burnout I guess due to heat.
Is this supposed to happen? It does in my Rangie
I am pretty sure that's wrong, even in a rangie. It's certainly not right for 99% of vehicles - it should be high beam OR low beam, not both. Especially with an H4 setup where the filaments are both in one globe.
Just went and checked. Yep, you are right, I was wrong. Only Hi or Lo - not both.
Harry
79 Rangie (his name is Ralf) 4.4 dual fuel, with plenty of other mods.
After running the above setup I'm still on the look for a 100% working solution
I tried the 'circuit completer' setup, using a H4 bulb as the completer, still no luck.
For now I'm running with the latest wiring digram I posted, I have definetely got more volts at the new headlamp socket, however thinking about it in theory it shouldnt be any better than stock, maybe it fixes/bypasses a dodgy earth or something I had in the stock setup - god knows, the more I think about it the more I get confused.
If anyone finds a diagram thatworks correctly in a negatively switched car I'd love to see it, I also would like that damn highbeam light to work still
What I did was pull the dash out, cut the wire to the high beam dash light. Taped up the end of the wire in the loom. I then soldered a new piece of wire onto the wire leading to the dash light, I then ran this wire back to the second out pin on the relay ( the one you have the yellow wire running from). What you have done probably achieves the same result though. Before I sorted this problem out I had the same issue with high low staying on at the same time. I didnt even make it back to Kilcoy from cruiser park before they totally burnt out at the headlights. Caused untold amount of damage and I lost my lights totally. i had to drive the rest of the way to Kilcoy by torchlight. All this while towing a mates rangie that I had to rescue. Made for a bloody long night.
Cheers.
Edit, it is not a change over type it is a 2 outlet type of relay. I feel you have wired up your relays wrong. I have a diagram that my auto elec gave me, but I have no way to scan it in at the moment. But then if it works I guess it is ok.
I just read your post properly. You do know it is negative switching. Sorry about that.
This is how I have mine wired.
Firstly I used 2 five pin relays. 2 outlet type, 87/87 not changeover type 87/87A. You dont need 5 pin for low beam but I did it just to keep it all uniform.
The wire you called +HL in your diagram. This wire goes to 86 on both the high and the low relay. Same as you have.
The low beam wire goes to 85 on the low beam relay.
The high beam wire goes to 85 on the high beam relay.
A fused wire comes from the battery to 30 on both high and low relays.
You can use 2 seperate wires to each relay if you want. I did this so I at least had the other lights (high or low) if one of the fuses blew.
87 from the low beam relay goes to low beam at the light.
87 from the high beam relay goes to the high beam at the light.
The 3rd wire at each light grounds to the body of the 4by.
Lastly a wire goes from the 2nd 87 pin on the high beam relay. This wire runs up to the dash light. You find and cut the wire to the dash light and splice the wire from the relay into it. Tape the end of the wire in the loom and tape it out of the way.
This is what I did and it has worked fine for about 3-4 years.
Cheers.
what you have more then likly fixed was the CHEAP factory wiring that most cars come with, most factory looms have a great voltage drop usually due to a poor earth and poor cable combined and give a very dim light output.
Maverick. Unlocked on 35's MOTTO: Lock, Stomp & Hold on
-Scott- wrote:Why have you connected the Original Connector LB contact to the new LB contacts? (Short yellow line at the top of your diagram.) Is this the wire which makes your dash indicator work?
Headlight current does not go through the original low beam, it is joined only to operate the highbeam warning lamp. When on low beam the current flows through the relays.
If you're not on the edge, you're taking up too much space.....
