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Hello- and prob. 82' BJ42 (3B) with oil in water.
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
Hello- and prob. 82' BJ42 (3B) with oil in water.
Hello all-
sorry for the introduction with problem included.
I was hoping to introduce myself in a more positive light...
oh well.
I have very recently bought a BJ42-
Got it freighted from Brisbane to Melbourne-
took a gamble and only had an uncle test drive it and inspect it (rather than a mechancial survey)(With many long and detailed conversations with the PO and his father)
the truck looks great body and underneath, drove great (for my uncle) and does appear in genuine good condition.
As it happened, the BJ drove onto the truck in Brisbane, but one week later in Melbourne wouldn't drive off.
The freighters tried to jump it with 2 starter packs- and couldn't, and then dropped it at my place.
The battery proved to be dead (only charged to 10%)- and a new one didn't solve the problem (it barely and intermitantly turned over a couple of times and then stopped- with just the relays clicking).
I pulled the starter motor off, and discovered that the wires for the brushes were loose- looked to have been badly soldered, and had come loose/melted loose.
New starter will be had on monday hopefully.
Anyway, today, for the icing on the cake, I dipped my finger into the top of the radiator and it came out covered in oil.
The top little section under the cap has about 5-10mm of milky oil on the top.
I drained some oil out of the sump, and thankfully there is not water in that (no milkiness- and no bubbles when doing a hot pan test).
so-
any ideas or advice would be greatly appreciated.
Headgasket- something worse- something better?
Cheers, and hello- wish it was under better circumstances.
Hans.
sorry for the introduction with problem included.
I was hoping to introduce myself in a more positive light...
oh well.
I have very recently bought a BJ42-
Got it freighted from Brisbane to Melbourne-
took a gamble and only had an uncle test drive it and inspect it (rather than a mechancial survey)(With many long and detailed conversations with the PO and his father)
the truck looks great body and underneath, drove great (for my uncle) and does appear in genuine good condition.
As it happened, the BJ drove onto the truck in Brisbane, but one week later in Melbourne wouldn't drive off.
The freighters tried to jump it with 2 starter packs- and couldn't, and then dropped it at my place.
The battery proved to be dead (only charged to 10%)- and a new one didn't solve the problem (it barely and intermitantly turned over a couple of times and then stopped- with just the relays clicking).
I pulled the starter motor off, and discovered that the wires for the brushes were loose- looked to have been badly soldered, and had come loose/melted loose.
New starter will be had on monday hopefully.
Anyway, today, for the icing on the cake, I dipped my finger into the top of the radiator and it came out covered in oil.
The top little section under the cap has about 5-10mm of milky oil on the top.
I drained some oil out of the sump, and thankfully there is not water in that (no milkiness- and no bubbles when doing a hot pan test).
so-
any ideas or advice would be greatly appreciated.
Headgasket- something worse- something better?
Cheers, and hello- wish it was under better circumstances.
Hans.
I dont want to be the bearer of bad news, but it sounds like a cracked head. They are know for it if they get to hot at any stage. You might be lucky and it is only a head gasket. You never know. I have 2 3bs laying around here, both with buggered heads. If it is a major issue with the engine, I would pull it out and put a 13BT in it or even a 14b.
Hopefully for your sake it is not that bad.
cheers.
Dave.
PS, welcome to the forum.
Hopefully for your sake it is not that bad.
cheers.
Dave.
PS, welcome to the forum.
Ouch Dave-
thats what I am fearing the most.
whats the chance of it just being a head gasket?
and if anyone knows or is prepared to guess at any rough estimates-
what ball-park figures would I be looking at for:
head gasket replaced (which I also could try to tackle myself)
head replaced
13BT swap (or other swap)
yeah- it's my own stupid fault in the end for not getting it surveyed- but f*#^K... I've got a few words to say to the PO.
thats what I am fearing the most.
whats the chance of it just being a head gasket?
and if anyone knows or is prepared to guess at any rough estimates-
what ball-park figures would I be looking at for:
head gasket replaced (which I also could try to tackle myself)
head replaced
13BT swap (or other swap)
yeah- it's my own stupid fault in the end for not getting it surveyed- but f*#^K... I've got a few words to say to the PO.
If looking for a brighter side it may have previously had a blown headgasket and the cooling system was not cleaned out properly.
What does the PO have to say, check for new gaskets, it is a possibility albeit minor.
What does the PO have to say, check for new gaskets, it is a possibility albeit minor.
Rob L
96 Dual fuel GXL 80 series
95 V8 ES Disco
Albury Wodonga
http://www.trailtrack4x4.com
96 Dual fuel GXL 80 series
95 V8 ES Disco
Albury Wodonga
http://www.trailtrack4x4.com
Looks like a nice BJ there Hans. V8 swaps have been done in thousands of 40s and info is easily attainable online.
If you wanted to keep the diesel, I would pull the head off for yourself and have a look and see whats what. Even if the head is fine it wouldnt hurt to chuck a new gasket in anyway.
If the engine is rooted then I would look at a 13bt swap too. Ive never done it but after riding in a mates 13bt powered FJ73 Im converted. If I ever get back in a 40 I would look at doing it for sure.
If you wanted to keep the diesel, I would pull the head off for yourself and have a look and see whats what. Even if the head is fine it wouldnt hurt to chuck a new gasket in anyway.
If the engine is rooted then I would look at a 13bt swap too. Ive never done it but after riding in a mates 13bt powered FJ73 Im converted. If I ever get back in a 40 I would look at doing it for sure.
|^^^^^^^^^^^^^^| ||
|.........SUZUKI..........| ||'|";, ____.
|_..._..._______===|=||_|__|..., ]
(@)'(@)"""''"**|(@)(@)*****''(@)
|.........SUZUKI..........| ||'|";, ____.
|_..._..._______===|=||_|__|..., ]
(@)'(@)"""''"**|(@)(@)*****''(@)
Thanks V840,
Definately want to keep the diesel- it took me a while to find one in good order... well, nearly good order
apparantly this has only done 89,000 Km.
There is virtually no rust on it- and only a tiny bit of bog.
I would have liked a 5-speed- by the 4 will have to do.
If its the head gasket or the head- then I will be trying to do it myself (big learning curve for me).
I won't be considering any worse than that at the moment. Gotta at least try to keep smiling.
Hopefully there is some other explanation for it.
When I get the starter motor fixed (or new one), drain and clean out the coolant and run it for a few days- I'll see what happens.
Definately want to keep the diesel- it took me a while to find one in good order... well, nearly good order
apparantly this has only done 89,000 Km.
There is virtually no rust on it- and only a tiny bit of bog.
I would have liked a 5-speed- by the 4 will have to do.
If its the head gasket or the head- then I will be trying to do it myself (big learning curve for me).
I won't be considering any worse than that at the moment. Gotta at least try to keep smiling.
Hopefully there is some other explanation for it.
When I get the starter motor fixed (or new one), drain and clean out the coolant and run it for a few days- I'll see what happens.
Honda Prelude buckets fit in pretty easily if you're after some more comfort.
A head gasket is not that hard to do. Just take your time. Its definitely worth buying/downloading a workshop manual and investing in a decent torque wrench (if you dont already have one). While the head is off, have a look at the pistons etc too and see if they need new rings or the bores need a freshen up.
If all your starter motor needs is the wires re-soldered, then any competent auto elec should handle that for you without too many dramas.
Good luck and start a members thread.
Your speaker setup is pimp.
A head gasket is not that hard to do. Just take your time. Its definitely worth buying/downloading a workshop manual and investing in a decent torque wrench (if you dont already have one). While the head is off, have a look at the pistons etc too and see if they need new rings or the bores need a freshen up.
If all your starter motor needs is the wires re-soldered, then any competent auto elec should handle that for you without too many dramas.
Good luck and start a members thread.
Your speaker setup is pimp.
|^^^^^^^^^^^^^^| ||
|.........SUZUKI..........| ||'|";, ____.
|_..._..._______===|=||_|__|..., ]
(@)'(@)"""''"**|(@)(@)*****''(@)
|.........SUZUKI..........| ||'|";, ____.
|_..._..._______===|=||_|__|..., ]
(@)'(@)"""''"**|(@)(@)*****''(@)
I've got lend of a good torque wrench (cheers Matt ) if/when required for the head-
and I have been printing out the 3B workshop manual for about... oh, 3 hours or so
nearly gone through a whole packet of paper. Maybe a hundred pages left to go- hopefully the cartridge makes it.
I do actually like the bench seat in the front- for the moment at least- its not uncomfortable for me (even if a bucket would be more comfy)
I also have a custom made bench seat- a fold and tumble that I picked up second hand the other day for the back.
Needs a little clean up and some new vinyl on the back- and of course some seat belts- but it is pretty good.
and I have been printing out the 3B workshop manual for about... oh, 3 hours or so
nearly gone through a whole packet of paper. Maybe a hundred pages left to go- hopefully the cartridge makes it.
I do actually like the bench seat in the front- for the moment at least- its not uncomfortable for me (even if a bucket would be more comfy)
I also have a custom made bench seat- a fold and tumble that I picked up second hand the other day for the back.
Needs a little clean up and some new vinyl on the back- and of course some seat belts- but it is pretty good.
update-
did a quick temporary solder fix to the starter motor- to see if it will run-
put it in and started it up.
Runs beautifully- drives damn good too.
Then this afternoon I finally got a call back from the PO.
After three days of having my calls unanswered I felt sure he was ignoring me- and that this meant the worst.
Said he had been on holiday all weekend and left his phone at home...
Short story- just before delivery he had replaced the thermostat housing.
Toyota couldn't get him a gasket and he was advised by someone to just use a heap of gasket grease and tip a bottle of Bars Leaks in the radiator.
I have heard some of these additives can cause a oily muck on top like mine- hopefully this is what I have (the oil really does look too clean for engine oil)
I'm taking off the starter tomorrow and sending it off to my girlfriends uncle who is going to rebuild it for me-
when it gets back I will drain the coolant, clean it out, run it/drive it for a while and see if the oil comes back.
fingers crossed- in the mean time while the starter is getting rebuilt I have enough stuff to get onto for roadworthy.
thanks for the help all.
Hans.
did a quick temporary solder fix to the starter motor- to see if it will run-
put it in and started it up.
Runs beautifully- drives damn good too.
Then this afternoon I finally got a call back from the PO.
After three days of having my calls unanswered I felt sure he was ignoring me- and that this meant the worst.
Said he had been on holiday all weekend and left his phone at home...
Short story- just before delivery he had replaced the thermostat housing.
Toyota couldn't get him a gasket and he was advised by someone to just use a heap of gasket grease and tip a bottle of Bars Leaks in the radiator.
I have heard some of these additives can cause a oily muck on top like mine- hopefully this is what I have (the oil really does look too clean for engine oil)
I'm taking off the starter tomorrow and sending it off to my girlfriends uncle who is going to rebuild it for me-
when it gets back I will drain the coolant, clean it out, run it/drive it for a while and see if the oil comes back.
fingers crossed- in the mean time while the starter is getting rebuilt I have enough stuff to get onto for roadworthy.
thanks for the help all.
Hans.
I agree, doors are not windscreen surround is not, but dash is, it has just had the crash pad removed, probably to fit the older windscreen surround. It looks like a good truck though. I have to question though, I thought all 80 on were 5 speed.Tojo wrote:doors are not 42 series nor is the windscreen surround / dash. It looks in good condition though
Thanks guys,
yeah Andrew it was relieving to say the least to get it started. And then to get the phone call from the PO with the news he had poured a bottle of gunk in the radiator...
Might still have issues with the head- but it was a morning of crap news ending with a night of relief.
for those interested heres the Data plate info
BJ42RV-KCQ
3B 3431
BJ42-003477
532 FD41
H41 KO82
A11 2340KG
correct me where I am wrong-
KCQ- K=4 speed, C=swing out ambulance doors, Q=intended for Australian market, 532='Yellow', H41= transmission (1st- 4.925, 2nd- 2.643, 3rd- 1.519, 4th- 1.000, reverse- 4.925, TFR LW(?)- 1.992, TFR Splines- 16) A11= manufactured at Honsya Plant. RV-KCQ= 3B 80'-82'...
there must be more in there- but thats all I could decode.
In the pre-purchase talks I had with the PO, he thought it was an imported one- that the PO before him had imported it from somewhere (he thought Brazil - though this is obviously unlikely) where it used to be a Police car.
The intended for australian market makes this look unlikely though.
and- a question about my older windscreen surround-
As it is cracked I am about to get the windscreen replaced- is it going to be the same windscreen that I have inquired about- a 82' BJ42? Or do I need to ask for something else?
Thanks guys.
Hans.
yeah Andrew it was relieving to say the least to get it started. And then to get the phone call from the PO with the news he had poured a bottle of gunk in the radiator...
Might still have issues with the head- but it was a morning of crap news ending with a night of relief.
for those interested heres the Data plate info
BJ42RV-KCQ
3B 3431
BJ42-003477
532 FD41
H41 KO82
A11 2340KG
correct me where I am wrong-
KCQ- K=4 speed, C=swing out ambulance doors, Q=intended for Australian market, 532='Yellow', H41= transmission (1st- 4.925, 2nd- 2.643, 3rd- 1.519, 4th- 1.000, reverse- 4.925, TFR LW(?)- 1.992, TFR Splines- 16) A11= manufactured at Honsya Plant. RV-KCQ= 3B 80'-82'...
there must be more in there- but thats all I could decode.
In the pre-purchase talks I had with the PO, he thought it was an imported one- that the PO before him had imported it from somewhere (he thought Brazil - though this is obviously unlikely) where it used to be a Police car.
The intended for australian market makes this look unlikely though.
and- a question about my older windscreen surround-
As it is cracked I am about to get the windscreen replaced- is it going to be the same windscreen that I have inquired about- a 82' BJ42? Or do I need to ask for something else?
Thanks guys.
Hans.
Just a shameless bump-
does anyone know if the windscreen is any different with the older windscreen surround?
I wan tto get my new windscreen in this week.
Cheers,
...
Today,
starter motor removed again and sent off for a re-build, changed the oil (no trace of water), changed the brake and clutch fluid, changed a cracked air filter hose for the donaldson, and other bits and bobs.
does anyone know if the windscreen is any different with the older windscreen surround?
I wan tto get my new windscreen in this week.
Cheers,
...
Today,
starter motor removed again and sent off for a re-build, changed the oil (no trace of water), changed the brake and clutch fluid, changed a cracked air filter hose for the donaldson, and other bits and bobs.
i'm pretty sure the glass is the same.. its just how it looks at the base .. the more recent models have a dash pad where you dont.
did you get your clutch slave cylinder on/off ok this time? Not sure why you had issues unless the system was still full of fluid? I have replaced mine a few times (had issues with no pedal pressure) and it hasn't been a drama.. it also has had to be bled afterwards...
also the 2 bj42's ive had have not had the rubber boot over the clutch fork, although if you get a part number i wouldn't mind sourcing one too..
did you get your clutch slave cylinder on/off ok this time? Not sure why you had issues unless the system was still full of fluid? I have replaced mine a few times (had issues with no pedal pressure) and it hasn't been a drama.. it also has had to be bled afterwards...
also the 2 bj42's ive had have not had the rubber boot over the clutch fork, although if you get a part number i wouldn't mind sourcing one too..
Thanks Andrew- I can now order the glass tomorrow.
Yeah getting the clutch slave cylinder off is/was no problem... getting it back on was the struggle (I won't have to do it again until the starter comes back).
The system was still full of fluid- but I opened the bleeder valve and pushed the rod in as far as it would go... anyway, it was only a few mm too tight- which is solved by someone pulling on a rope from behind attatched to the clutch fork... it works ok just can't do it on my own and thought I must have been missing something obvious.
about the rubber boot- if you haven't seen it- on the thread at 1h8mud 'swifty' reckons he got his at
http://www.donkyatt.com.au/
I've asked him if he has a part number- otherwise I'll just talk to them and try to figure it out.
I'll let you know.
Yeah getting the clutch slave cylinder off is/was no problem... getting it back on was the struggle (I won't have to do it again until the starter comes back).
The system was still full of fluid- but I opened the bleeder valve and pushed the rod in as far as it would go... anyway, it was only a few mm too tight- which is solved by someone pulling on a rope from behind attatched to the clutch fork... it works ok just can't do it on my own and thought I must have been missing something obvious.
about the rubber boot- if you haven't seen it- on the thread at 1h8mud 'swifty' reckons he got his at
http://www.donkyatt.com.au/
I've asked him if he has a part number- otherwise I'll just talk to them and try to figure it out.
I'll let you know.
part # for the clutch fork boot is 31126-55020 and retails for approx $35.00.
Last edited by shorty_f0rty on Wed Apr 30, 2008 3:30 pm, edited 1 time in total.
i have an 82 bj 42 as well,4 speed and just the 2 wipers,i thought 5 speeds were added in late 82,early 83 models,but mines definatly an 82 bj 42 ,glad u got yours going mate,wish the body on mine was in the condition of yours,i got mine for a parts car originally,its rusted out,but im thinking swb ute for it now ,need to souce a similar vintage ute cab
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