Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
nissan D22 2.5 turbo diesel.
nissan D22 2.5 turbo diesel.
guys. having just bought my first turb diesel (new) i thought it was a reasonable price for this vehicle 32,990 +on road costs it seems to go along nicely and quiet, question is A-does any one have any bad input for this vehicle like what i need to watch out for, B-does the fuel economy improve or get worst as she gets up a few Ks...cheers.
i haven't had a chance to test drive one of the 2008 2.5's. its pays to mention the year as there is 2.5's in the earlier models (tho not common in AU).
fuel economy generally improves, however some of the common rail motors are very touchy to fuel quality. people are even starting to fit pre fuel filters to help filter all the water and crap they are getting. its BIG $$$ to replace fuel system on those.
common faults .....same as the previous models, crap rear springs that sag real easy. neutral switch on the gearbox tends to pack up.
highly recommended to fit a good filtering catch can on the breather. that helps keep the MAF clean (very important) and also reduces excess fuel which upsets the control system for the turbo and EGR.
what rpm does it do at 100km/h in 5th ?
whats it like off the line with a load on ?
fuel economy generally improves, however some of the common rail motors are very touchy to fuel quality. people are even starting to fit pre fuel filters to help filter all the water and crap they are getting. its BIG $$$ to replace fuel system on those.
common faults .....same as the previous models, crap rear springs that sag real easy. neutral switch on the gearbox tends to pack up.
highly recommended to fit a good filtering catch can on the breather. that helps keep the MAF clean (very important) and also reduces excess fuel which upsets the control system for the turbo and EGR.
what rpm does it do at 100km/h in 5th ?
whats it like off the line with a load on ?
d22
its a 2008 model with the intercooler hood on the bonnet, and in 5 gear (manual of course) it sit about 2300-2400 rpms just gone in for its 1000k free check up and i havent had a trailer on it yet bet it seems to have some go in it build badge says made in japan not like the ST-X which are made in spain cheers
i dont naturaly look this bad work done it to me
it has a front diff allright (unless it 2WD)
with no locker in the front, they give them a bit of a hard time its easy for them to break the front diff. it does depend on what they actually broke in the diff.
imho i would drive them grandma style for a while to let the ecu learn while everything wears in.
with no locker in the front, they give them a bit of a hard time its easy for them to break the front diff. it does depend on what they actually broke in the diff.
imho i would drive them grandma style for a while to let the ecu learn while everything wears in.
d22
yes i stand corrected i was thinking of a diff housing like the rear and its only a centre housing with cv's. Im not a mad man out there i only want to use 4x4 if i realy need to im not lookn for extreme conditions just a little top end adventure,fishing and camping. I know its no toyota (i couldn,t justify the extra costs) but i hope it suits my purpose for such adventures thanks tweak'e.
i dont naturaly look this bad work done it to me
d22
i am dammed if i know mr.g is the d40 3 litre or 2.5 i know the earlier D22 model ran a 3 litre and mine has a 2.5 i might ask the local dealership and find out , ill get back.
i dont naturaly look this bad work done it to me
Re: d22
Wash your mouth out boy!!hollywood wrote:I know its no toyota
Is your bonnet scoop colour coded or black on coloured bonnet?
Coxy
d22
colour coded coxy, and it looks like it should be there. i checked the nissan web site about the engines not alot to be learned only the D40 has a YD25 126 KW variable nozzle turbo charger, & the D22 has 98 KW power rating both are commonrail diesel turbos....?????
i dont naturaly look this bad work done it to me
i think D22 common rail YD25 is the one out of one of nissan cars or a detuned version of the 2WD D40. 2WD D40 has lower output (106kw) than 4X4 D40 (128kw).
difference, mainly turbo and ecu programming. will have to check a few other things but main component will be turbo.
also whats of concern is how much oil the sump will take. the earlier YD25 (100kw not common rail) seems to have a problem of blowing conrods (i suspect sump to small and oil is getting filled with air). however i think CRD YD25 has slightly different block and different sump.
if anyone could post how much oil the new one takes it would be much appreciated.
difference, mainly turbo and ecu programming. will have to check a few other things but main component will be turbo.
also whats of concern is how much oil the sump will take. the earlier YD25 (100kw not common rail) seems to have a problem of blowing conrods (i suspect sump to small and oil is getting filled with air). however i think CRD YD25 has slightly different block and different sump.
if anyone could post how much oil the new one takes it would be much appreciated.
D22
i dont mind havn a little less power if if keeps the donk running smooth and reliable when im on hollidays im in no hurry , but the oil thing worries me is this oil cavitation only when at serious angle or all the time..
i dont naturaly look this bad work done it to me
Re: D22
i do not know IF it will apply to the new ones.hollywood wrote: but the oil thing worries me is this oil cavitation only when at serious angle or all the time..
the older ones, no ones knows or more likly noone will say exactly what the cause is. much like ZD30 blowing pistons nissan has a culture of "there is no problem" and "its not our fault".
some have blamed the o ring between sump and block but that system is the same in multible motors. others thinks its a rod or bearing problem but afaik the CRD YD25 (D40) uses the same rods/bolts/bearings.
main difference between 2WD D22, 4WD D22, D40 is oil capasity and bearings pulled from motors show signs damage from air in the oil.
one person who has had new bearings has just snapped a rod :(
also the sump is very flat and close to the crank for a bout 2/3 of the sump. so oil might be whipped by the crank.
on a steep downhill oil also could pool at the from of the sump which will not be picked up by the pump. about 2/3 of the oil draining back would go to the front of the motor due to the long flat sump.
hopefully the new motor will not have those problems.
check out http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic119 ... highlight=ats4x4dotcom wrote:the diff was in a brand new 2.5 lt unit, and they were doing nothing lots of other standard cars in the group were doing, it just went "bang"
with stock tires its really easy to get one spinning then grab on a rock and bye bye diff.
we run a couple of the 3 litre vers with no problems. a lot comes down to use. you have to remember there are not built like the bigger 4x4's eg patrol or landcruiser.
people have had the same problem with hiluxs, holdens, fords etc.
if your just using 4x4 to get you out of trouble rather than into trouble i doubt you will have any problems.
we load them up to max and them some without problems, but we use the soft approach. its less stress on the vehicle and hopefully don't rip up the ground so much as the orchard and farm owners do not like us digging trenches around their paddocks.
people have had the same problem with hiluxs, holdens, fords etc.
if your just using 4x4 to get you out of trouble rather than into trouble i doubt you will have any problems.
we load them up to max and them some without problems, but we use the soft approach. its less stress on the vehicle and hopefully don't rip up the ground so much as the orchard and farm owners do not like us digging trenches around their paddocks.
Mate, maybe I have been hiding under a rock but I haven't heard of any major engine issues with the YD25 in the D40 or new D22. Regardless, just drive the thing and enjoy your holiday and new car, worrying about something that is more than likely not going to be an issue is just going to ruin every holiday you go on. Drive and enjoy....
01 GU Patrol 4.2TD Wagon
i haven't heard of any motor issues with the D40 either. the issues with the YD25 is in the old D22 which AU never got and NZ only got in 2WD (haven't heard of any problems with 2WD ver and it just happens to have a bigger sump and more oil capacity).Nev wrote:Mate, maybe I have been hiding under a rock but I haven't heard of any major engine issues with the YD25 in the D40 ..... .
the question is if its oil/sump related will those problems also appear in the new D22. time will tell.
d22
thanks nev sounds like the best advice ive had yet and i definately will have a ball thanks to all you guys and safe journeys to you all and your families regards steve
i dont naturaly look this bad work done it to me
The Euro D22's had problem's with throwing rods. I think its because they sit on 4000rpm on the motorways for hours on end. Its just asking for trouble if you ask me.
Mate the D22 are a good thing. I have a 2006 model, 80,000km's so far and only a shock failed.
As for the front diff, I have heard of more diffs failing Toyota's. ie Hilux, Prado's. Especially Prado's should I say. Dont spin the tyres on rock's, its just asking for trouble.
Yes its not a Toyota, but thats a good thing. You didn't get robbed over the counter because of the badge on the front.
Good luck.
Mate the D22 are a good thing. I have a 2006 model, 80,000km's so far and only a shock failed.
As for the front diff, I have heard of more diffs failing Toyota's. ie Hilux, Prado's. Especially Prado's should I say. Dont spin the tyres on rock's, its just asking for trouble.
Yes its not a Toyota, but thats a good thing. You didn't get robbed over the counter because of the badge on the front.
Good luck.
ats4x4dotcom wrote:the diff was in a brand new 2.5 lt unit, and they were doing nothing lots of other standard cars in the group were doing, it just went "bang"
So another datsun 180b diff packs it in in the front af a nav!!
Ha that sounds very familiar!!!!!!!!!!!! been there done that!!! oh there's a link to me
and I agree with Tweak'e... softly softly .. I only use 4wd now when needed got me most places aound fraser island in 2wd.
d22
thx dave she sits around 2400 at 100ks ph which i think isnt bad and yes the toyota cost factor entered the purchase of this vehicle indeed i couldnt justify the extra 12k or so i dont believe its that much of a better vehicle, cheers
i dont naturaly look this bad work done it to me
good choice, i reckon you get more bang for your buck choosing i nissan over a toy any day,
a while back i looked into getting a STR but i decided on a 97 3.2lt d22 as it came Std with a bullet proof driveline but a mule of a motor,
neway those 2.5lt have some balls to them and keep on the tail of the d40 2.5s pretty good
you really have to watch those diff as they are like a mid duty compared whith the H233b and r200's that are in the earlier d22's
a while back i looked into getting a STR but i decided on a 97 3.2lt d22 as it came Std with a bullet proof driveline but a mule of a motor,
neway those 2.5lt have some balls to them and keep on the tail of the d40 2.5s pretty good
you really have to watch those diff as they are like a mid duty compared whith the H233b and r200's that are in the earlier d22's
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 57 guests